you are going to have your hands full but it can be done
stock accent gt's came with 14s which I can't imagine were more than 5-5.5 inches wide when they came with 185/60/14 tires. The gt's also came with "slightly" stiffer struts and springs, given I don't think you would be able to feel much difference but i've never driven a stock gt model so what do I know?
Your going to be stuck with trying to fit the widest tire on a similar sized 14 inch wheel. I'm sure you could shoehorn a 205 on there with little to no problems.
Sway bar options are out there but anything other than removing the front bar is going to result in understeer since you are limited to only a front bar. A bigger front bar might help with body roll but it will make for a stubborn car to drive when you need it to rotate.
I've never tried it with a stock rear bar in place but with my bigger bar(20 mm) in the rear and no bar in front I had quite a bit of body roll and lots of oversteer on entry.
your best bet is to leave the front bar in place to keep some of the body roll in check(there will be quite a bit of it anyway especially on r-comps) and use your tire pressures to help get some rotation out of the car.
For struts and springs, if you don't want to go the koni route(which is your best option by far) then you might want to try the stock gt springs and struts. I think your still going to be underdamped but its worth a try.
Other than tires and whatever suspension setup your going to try, a good alignment should help make everything else work much better. Try to get as much negative camber as you can, I know other strut equipped stock class cars use "crash bolts" to get more adjustment. I've never heard of hyundai selling smaller strut mounting bolts before but i'm sure you could make it work with a slightly smaller bolt.
With my ksport camber plates i'm able to get damn close to -3 degrees up front and about -2.5 in the rear. If you could pull off -1 to -1.5 front and rear you'd be heading in the right directon. Also if tire wear on the street isn't that big of a deal for you i'd suggest running a little toe out in the front, no more than an 1/8th out would do wonders. I have mine set at 0 front and rear but I know an 1/8th out up front would help me in the tighter corners at turn in. However I drive mine on the street and don't have the money to replace my street tires every 10k.
for brakes, oem stuff tends to hold up pretty well, my 2000 uses a good quality semi metallic oem equivalent pad and they have held up well in autox. I use stainless braided lines in the front with valvoline synthetic dot4 fluid and cross drilled/slotted rotors. I think you'd be fine with some good fluid and new pads. I still want to try out the ebc green stuff pads. Maybe when I get some extra money. For a performance oriented pad the ebc green and reds are going to be your only option.
For power, your stuck with a pannel air filter and exhaust, which you might be able to pick up a few hp and drop a little weight but I stick with the stock stuff till you start to get bored with hearing nothing when you rev the motor.
I'd say this will give you a good starting point. You won't be able to compete with the minis but it will be a good starting point for whoever drives the car. And it will definately be fun.
Good luck
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2000 gs- daily driver(ksports,rear sway bar,kore exhaust, hve duct, enkei nt03s,kumho spts,astrel lip, kore carbon hood)
1999 L- street mod terror (naturally aspirated again) too many mods to list
Last edited by andy : 09-05-2007 at 01:20 PM.
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