new s-coupe

[beppomarx]

well everyone i am about 99.99% sure i will be picking up an scoupe turbo this weekend. i know there are a few very knowledgeable owners of these cars raoming around here and what i am after today is maybe some general info on what i can do to keep this car for 150,000+ miles. it is a 93 with 85k on the clock and was running an intercooler, but the owner is not selling the car with IC and it will be back to the stock up-pipe. it alsorun s an aftermarket muffler with stock pipes and underdrive pulley for performance and that is all.

my very first mod will be to install a DIY grounding kit to the alternator, block, starter, and coils. i believe the 93 is a distributer type am i correct?

next i will fit a FMIC because i know that will increase longevity, and once money allows there will be a turbo-timer installed because this is my womans car really and i want to make its operation as fool-proof as possible.

any suggestions on what plugs and such i should run??? those being changed is probably being done when i get it and i already have magnecore plug wires to suit it. also want to know if 87 octane is ok to run or use only 91?? what about after installing the intercooler is 87 ok to run then??

and again any tips, tricks, etc are appreciated but the superchip will wait till spring, not something i want to do just as fall approaches in syracuse NY ::surprised:.

thanks in advance

edit

this will also be my virgin experience with owning a turbo car, but i do know about cool-down time to reduce bearings coking up and such but any other relevant turbo advice is welcome too.

[Edited by beppomarx on Oct 20, 2003 9:45 AM]

[VALKYRIE YB70]

Hi again Beppo!.
The Scoupe Turbo`93 to `95 is an ideal introduction to forced induction & Hyundai did a lot of excellent work in an attempt to make it as foolproof & streetable as possible.It is also very well built & should last up to 150,000 miles (inc. the T15!) IF it has been properly serviced & looked after.
Basically, this means changing the oil & filter every 6000 miles (max.) using 5W/40 pure synthetic & hosing road-salt from the underbody weekly in winter.
In general, all the Series II Scoupes had twin-coil distributorless ignition, but I believe some early models were fitted with a distributor.
I run Splitfire Triple Platinum plugs. but the NGK`s specified (for the TURBO car) in Webtech are fine.....gap to .031".
The biggest problem area on the car is oil-temperature (you would never discover this without putting in a gauge with a sump-sensor, as the stock water-temp. gauge is always at normal, due to the large & efficient rad.) The reason for this is, of course, the turbo & the under-piston cooling oil-squirters.Without an oil-cooler, the oil will reach 125C in cruising conditions, so fitting one is almost mandatory!.
After this, Hyundai`s only 2 other omissions were a FMIC & a BOV......both are necessary if the car is to perform well & live long.
The best BOV is the re-circulating type, where the wasted boost is returned to the inlet pipe between the turbo & the air filter, but you can use a special twin-piston type & vent to atmosphere for that sound!. The BOV can be welded (or bonded) directly to the alloy up-pipe (see my pics.).
My I.C. came out of a Mitsu. Shogun (Pajearo) 4x4 & was chosen because of the top outlet/inlet positions. You can easily make 2 simple brackets to lean the top of the rad. back some 2.5" to give the pipes clearance around the sides (& also allow a cold air intake pipe through, to feed your new cone filter.....you will rip out your o.e. airbox won`t you?)!. All this stuff is visible in my engine-bay shots.
By the way, the o.e. Garrett T15 was designed specifically for this car, it is sealed-for-life & is non-serviceable.......so your thoughts re. a turbo-timer are quite valid, especially as your `other-half` will drive it!.
Another simple mod. which makes an amazing difference, is just to fit a 1.25" thick universal spacer behind each rear wheel.....this gives the car a much beefier look & improves handling still further!.
Good luck with your project.....if you need any help just ask on here!.
Cheers,
Nick.
Nearly forgot!......stick with 91 octane or better.....mine`s never drunk less than 95, is now on 98.4 Optimax & we`re awaiting B.P.`s imminent 100 RON fuel impatiently!.

[Edited by VALKYRIE YB70 on Oct 20, 2003 5:11 PM]

[beppomarx]

thanks nick! on my shopping list for thsi weekend will be:

NGK plugs (im a fan what can i say)
magnecore plug wires
cone filter and some tubing
DIY grounding kit
oil cooler.

stage 2 will probably be a new up-pipe with FMIC and the recirculating BOV (something i did plan on but omitted earlier...)

some of that stuff i do remember hearing but didnt in the 5 minutes it took me to write it up. actually i remember you specifically having issues with oil temp. but i have 2 more immediate questions:

1.) for the oil cooler, i was thinking of running it in-line before the turbo to minimize oil temps going to that, but if high sump problems are the case would it be better to fit it after the turbo on its way back to th block?? or should i not run it inline with the turbo and use its own route?

2.) about the oil itself. i was under the impression that full synthetic was too thin for hyundais HLA's and i noticed ticking went waaay down when i switched from fully synthetic to semi. or is it just that teh full synthetic has more pros for the turbine itself to make up for ticking HLA's, or is this not a problem on this model car? not to doubt you, but maybe i want to run 10w-50 in the summer?? or year round??

[asiman1]

good choice!

[VALKYRIE YB70]

Definitely use full synthetic as it`s much less likely to coke your turbo & also because it can stand higher temperatures. I said 5W/40 thinking about the impending NY winter, but, to be honest, I`m currently using Mobil 1 15W/50 Racing Formula in an attempt to cut the oil-consumption.
These cars do use oil, but strangely they rarely seem to burn the stuff & smoky exhausts are unusual. My HLF`s have never tapped much after warm-up.
I would advise against touching the oil supply to the t/c......use a sandwich plate (with a waxstat if you like) between the oil-filter & the block. If you use 1/2" bore piping this will also nicely increase the amount of lubricant in the system....I managed to use 2 yards of piping!. Use hose clips if the cooler has push-on fittings!!.
Magnecor wires rock!......just get 8mm. Electrosports, 8.5mm. is overkill on our cars.
You may like to add a rising rate adjustable fuel pressure regulator to your stage 2 list...This will immediately smooth out flat spots in acceleration & will also be ready to help out when you up the boost (try to find one with a gauge). In fact, one of these + a $30 bleed-valve type manual boost controller could save you the (ridiculous) cost of a Superchip!.
I`m @ 12 p.s.i. (stock is 7) & no signs of leaning out at WOT using the above.
Later,
Nick.:

[Accent95]

I found this: http://www.extrememotorsports.com/rscoupe.htm

[dumb]

hey nick i just realized from the info you gave that some years of the scoupe come with a distributorless ignition, i wonder since my car has a distributor how hard it would be to swap to distributorless? do you think i would need to change the ecu? Maybe its better to go with an aftermarket one like i planned i just never new that difference before.

[VALKYRIE YB70]

Hmmm!.... I thought only a few `93`s had distributors, but it looks like I`m wrong.
I`ll have to tap various years into Webtech & check.
I`m sure the ECU must have differences because of this & probably sensor/harness variations too, so upgrading yours could prove difficult!
The coilpack system has got to be superior though.....mine has never failed to start immediately the key is turned in nearly 5 years (or even misfired/gone out of tune).
I didn`t like the Canadian/Austrian bodyparts by the way......the lip-spoiler was about 3 times the price of Bretton`s & the rest was not as good as the stock bodykit!, shame.
Later,
Nick.

[dumb]

yep i thought they were pretty ugly myself but thought someone might like them.

[beppomarx]

ok well the car i am planning on buying has a running engine but a bad 'tap' (as its described) in teh head. who i am buying it from has a fully assembled brand new head ready to put on that is coming with the car, i just have to install it myself. ordered the head gasket from hyundai earlier today and will be here on thursday.

ok so my parts list as far as this weekend goes is:

full head replacement
grounding kit
oil flush and replaced with synthetic 10w-40. ill try that since its still 50-60*F here and go from there.
plugs
wires
cone filter/intake side tubing
coolant flush
remove weatherstripping between the hood and firewall for more airfow. hopefully this will provide enough to get through a cold winter, she will not be running it hard or over 5k probably ever.

because of funds this is it until 2 more weeks. next on the line is definitely an oil temp guage and boost guage, and if temps warrant- an oil cooler. but hopefully i can go without until spring when temps rise back above freezing...

wish me luck on the head replacement, i will be EXTRA careful not to snap/strip any bolts... (i do have access to a torque wrench, but still pray for me :nervous: )