Well, here's the story, and I'll try and keep it short. I need some advice and thought you guys (and gals) might be able to help.
I bought my '02 Accent GS in November 01. Great little car. Sold my 95 Stealth to buy it. Not a complaint until the spring when it started to idle rough. When I start the car in the mornings, the idle will fluctuate between 900 and 1900 rpms for about 20 seconds, and the engine will run really rough while that's happening. Sometimes it runs so rough, the check engine light will come on.
Well, I've had the car in service 5 times, with a lemon law claim on the last visit. The service dept. was stumped. Tried everything. Corporate Hyundai had been trying to help them since visit #2. Nothing. Suddenly, Thursday I get a call saying that the problem is "a characteristic of the vehicle". Can you believe that? It wasn't the service dept. making that call, it was corporate Hyundai. I don't buy it for a minute.
I thought I'd see if any of you have had the same problem, and if so, how did you resolve it? It's not like I don't enjoy my car, but I shouldn't have a car with less than 8k miles running like crap.
Here's my personal email addy if you want to talk off-board: gymrat@cox.net
Is it hot and humid where yout're at? Aparently the car runs waayy to rich in these conditions. There was a service bulletin mentioned about this on TSR (www.teamsr.org). The solution is for hyundai to redo the fuel and ignition maps in the ecm.
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Never run out of real estate, traction & ideas at the same time.
2007 Tacoma 2wd 4cyl 5spd reg cab
1998 Accent L - #13 FSP SCCA Solo2 in 2005, SOLD
2001 Accent GS - RIP
if its a 2002 i dont think it fell under that category, they only called for 2000 and 2001, correct me if im wrong, i had this problem a few months ago.
Both my fiancee's(01 GS) and mine(02 GS) have that problem. I usually just sit for afew and let it get it out of its system.
My fiancee's has occasionally stalled itself out forcing her to turn the car on again. Neither of us had this problem until we put our aerospeed(her) and k&n(me) cone filters on our cars. I am going to put her stock intake back on and see if it fixes the problem.
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03 Tiburon GT White 6spd - Mine!
04 Tiburon GT Black Auto - Belongs to the wife.
my car does the same thing and im 90% sure i know why.
waay back in the day when i got my GL (ok about 7 months ago) i was looking for performance and obviously nothing was available and i fell victim to www.surbo.net.
skierd you may remember me talking of this on another forum (told me to take it off immediately actually)
in this kit (which by the way is the exact same thing as a vornado or any other air-swirling intake thingy) they advised that i completely seal off the dipstick tube by using a supplied gasket and a garbage bag tie; and also to completely block off the PVC hose. well me and all my ignorance and gullible nature i did it and what happened was that teh engine started making a reeeal quiet whistling sound at idle; but when i revved it went away. turns out that there was a vacuum being created in teh crankcase because [my assumption] that is how it forces oil thru the lifters and DOHC's; and thus the excess pressure created in the valve cover is released thru the PCV hose. (see what im getting at?)
about thsi same time my ngine starting doing exactly what youre describing; in the morning it idles rough for about 30-45 seconds; spikes the throttle to 2k once or twice exactly what youre claiming. it also sound like a harsh metal on metal scuffing in that period and it also knocks (upon engine brake especially; or decelleration of the egnine; while the car is at a standstill). but after no more than 1 minute my theory is that once the oil gets pumped up there it does its job and idle settles down to about 950; then down to teh normal 550 or so after it warms up.
im taking my car in to teh dealer for this wednesday (im not telling them about the PCV blockoff at one point; especially now that i know this is a common problem).
im not going to settle for anything less than a valve job if my theory is correct; and im going to push for a brand new engine altogether.
of course im also going to try and get a new transmission because of the syncro pulleys (and argue that they have worn down the idler gear excessively because of them)
they may need to tear my tranny down to find out that part but i want new drivetrain for a forced induction project next summer and i dont want a sh*tty base for a $3k project.
ill post here how their analysis of teh car goes; i will drop it off tuesday night and have them start it up on wednesday to see the problem.
in the meanwhile i have to downgrade to my sisters 98 accent SOHC autotragic (POO!) for wednesday :sleepy:
edit
just saw paiges post and i believes that backs up my theory as well.
putting the free flowing CAI on versus the restrictive airbox decreases the vacuum created when teh enging is accelerating; creating less vacuum to help 'suck up' more oil; especially in the morning when its really trying to get things all lubed up.
hope im right :bandit:
[Edited by beppomarx on Sep 9, 2002 12:50 PM]
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reminiscing of my LC...
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Originally posted by solo-baric
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Excellence in all we do. hopefully i pissed him off some more and that would be excellent.
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Well, I haven't done any mods on the car unless you count my green alien head antenna ball.
I was considering getting a forced induction kit, or at least a drop-in K&N thinking this might clear up the problem. Hyundai is still sticking to their guns saying this is a "characteristic" of the car. I'm meeting them some time later this week to start my car next to one of theirs. Should be interesting.
NOTE: Didn't want to do too many mods to the Accent. That's what I have my bike for. :evil: I just took out a vette Friday.
From the sounds of it, it is a characteristic, BUT it's not a favourable one. For that it should be fixed. Don't give up, fight for what is rightfully yours.
Off-topic a little. I drive a 98 Accent Sport. It has 32k km's on it and works great. Engine never skips a beat. It does however make a slight vibrating noise when the clutch is engaged. At idle in nuetral, not sure if it happens during regular driving because it is very quiet and would get drowned out. As soon as I push the clutch a tiny bit the noise is gone. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone have a guess at what it is?
Ya, I'm sticking to my guns. I've driven it a lot the last few days to observe all the little details. The last two mornings I've started it, I've made sure the a/c was off and it still surged/fell/idled rough. Heck, this morning I drove it to work, and it only took until lunch for it to happen again. I'm thinking the fact that it was in the upper 60s this morning might have had something to do with it.
As of right now, they owe me $$ or a new car if the problem is legit (which it is). They've had their "final attempt at repair" according to lemon law. I've tried working with them and being nice, but they're not returning the favor. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
And I thought I was the only one having problems with my accent. I've read a lot of posts in many different sites about people having problems with there accents. It's weird how the same problems keep on getting mentioned over and over again. For example paint coming off people's cars for no reason and cars shutting off when you first start them up. I've had both problems and other numerous problems with the car. I've already been to the dealer back and forth, four times already. Basically I concluded that the cars a piece of crap. I never really liked the car. I knew it was a piece of crap before my parents bought it for me. And now I've been able to prove it. The only reason my parents bought it for me was, because I'm a broke ass college student that needed, not wanted, an economical car. I'm sure some of you out there can relate. Basically I think people only buy the car for economical reasons. As much as I would like to believe people bought there accent because they wanted to, I just can't. I gave the car a chance, that was before the problems, but I lost all hope.
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