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Old 08-05-2006, 06:02 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Default Re: Bulletproofing

Definitely, BTW while we're on the subject of gasflow, what are your opinions on having an enlarged aftermarket plenium, consider it has been flow balanced properly? From what I understand, there are very substantial gains to be had from bolting an Edelbrock mani on, esp. for V8's, and especially if the part has been matched to the heads and the throat of the carby[a m8's gone and gotten himself a V8, we're thinking about a long-term project where we throw a couple of T04Z's onto the thing and see what it does LOL]

Nah, I really don't know much about domestic engines.
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Old 08-09-2006, 10:37 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Default Re: Bulletproofing

opinions on gas flow, well anytime you add more air you must match it with extra gas(i'm sure you know this, not trying to be fescecious) i don't know what he stock injector size for hyundais are, but to make best use of a turbo app, you definately need to use bigger injectors so as to not max out your duty cycle and burn up the injectors. second you would need a higher pressure fuel regulator and with a turbo preferably a rising rate fpr. thirdly, a figher flow fuel pump is in order to handle the higher fuel needs.



as for a plennum intake - absolutely. i've read several articles on tuning the lentgh of the runners for better performance, however i think that is not totally necesary in a street driven car. unless you are some sort of quantum physicist, just stick with stock runners. port matching and tuning seem to be the best bet for more power. or i should say that they allow other things to be tuned better, ie more boost. everything ties together and you just don't get much of anything extra if you don't have the total package.

the set up on my xr right now is sohc, bored out 20 over, over size intake and exhaust valves, fat ass cam, roller rockers, huge log type exhaust mani, t3/t4 turbo, full 3" exhaust from teh turbo back, 8.5 compression pistons, no intercooler(mounted just not plumbed yet), stock 15 psi boost, stock ecu. i made 166 hp at the wheels about 2 months ago. i estimate that to be about 200hp at the crank which is 25 hp over stock. so here i am $5000 down the road and plenty of mods and still not making much more than stock hp. i have about another $3000 to go until all is finished up and i can get the 300 whp i'm looking for. my point is that i already have lots alots of parts installed but i don't have the total package finished up yet so it's all for not ntil i get the fuel and timing and ic tuned together.

oh yeah, back to the question about plenums, a flow matched plenum intake is definately a benifit. all of the high hp xr's are running custom built plenum intakes. most are in the 300 - 400 range but there a re a few that have been "touched" by the guru of merkurs and are making 500 - 600 hp at the wheels.


[Edited by xr4man on Aug 9, 2006 7:51 AM]
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:48 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mizoo
Would somebody make a definition of 'bulletproofing' more clear? What do you understand by that exactly?
making your engine indestructible for high psi level.
my car is running more reliable and pretty good since september 2006.

but I don't recommend bulletproofing it, mainly for the expensive cost.

$5k for parts and labour.
forged rods, forged pistons, boring honing, racing crankshaft.
result 330hp at 20psi - 25psi.
street tuned with a haltech e6x ecu.
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:43 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Generally it comes down to what you want to do with the car; you "bulletproof" when you need the engine to survive consistant high-output operation[ie. BIG boost for prolonged periods of time, prolonged operation at very high stress and heat, or extreme high load]

For a daily driver this usually isn't the case; you can get away with rods, good bearings, a good set of pistons and rings, aligning the bores and the crank, and balancing the crank along with having it tested for cracks. You can also have it treated and centered then balanced, but for a strong street engine that's as far as you usually need to go. A "stopper" gasket will generally be fine for street, so O-ringing the block is perhaps a step you can skip for a street machine.[On a high-boost racing engine, its a different story; you don't have the time to change the gasket when every tenth counts]

If you want things safe, have the reciprocating assembly balanced. For the older Mitsubishi-based motors, you'd also want to delete the balance shafts.

Full work usually means that the engine will be used for some serious motorsport duty where the engine will need to last the duration of the race, not sprints to the speed limit or street-drag, which are generally "squirts." You "bulletproof" when you're "squirting" about eight times a lap over a period of perhaps ten or more laps, and you know that the boost levels are obscenely high for the compression you're running.

Look at it this way; some of the quickest 0-400m cars here don't have engines built to that caliber and yet run the times and make the power. However, their owners will not risk their engines in sustained output contests[ie. 15+lap sessions at a time, when temps start to soar and your cooling/lubrication systems get stressed heavily. Along with your fuel.]
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Old 06-05-2007, 11:30 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renantepayne
$5k for parts and labour.
forged rods, forged pistons, boring honing, racing crankshaft.
result 330hp at 20psi - 25psi.
street tuned with a haltech e6x ecu.
for parts that can handle tons of power thats not alot of power your pushing. ive seen stock bottom end engines with hp in the 400 range and running fine. a GOOD, CHEAP combination would be to lighten the crankshaft, lighten the flywheel, get forged h beam rods, aluminum pistons, ported and polished cylinder head, some high performance valves and valve springs, and a set of HIGH LIFT TURBO TUNED camshafts. stroking the engine is pointless, as your bore is too small. if anything, de-stroke it and increase boost psi. you will get the same horsepower as stroking it, but also have more useable rpms and a higher powerband. if all you want is a fast street car that combo would be perfect. if its properly tuned, you should be expecting in the 400 range with a v6, even a 4 cylinder.

btw, my 6.0 liter z28 is running 1,200 horsepower at the crank with 32 psi turbo boost and i can drive it as a daily driver if i wanted.
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Old 11-15-2007, 11:21 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Question : With all that power, can the stock Hyundai transmission take it? I shot my first and final drive gear at only 242whp and 364Nm of torque. How can I strengthen the gearbox, I am aiming for 350whp with my next turbo upgrade. Btw, mine is a I4 5 speed gearbox.

Currently i am searching for an online shop that can get me the damage first and final drive gears. Anyone knows?





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Last edited by Kimchi Power; 11-15-2007 at 11:30 AM.
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