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Installation of MX-6 GT Turbo IHI Turbo - PROJECT SUSPENDED

3K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  door_man 
#1 ·
Installation of MX-6 GT Turbo IHI Turbo into Hyundai Accent

Turbo Make and Model:
IHI (Manufacturer)
RHB52 KW VJ-11 (Model)

Ok.

This Installation technique, is VERY cost effective, and is not all that hard for someone who is technically inclined.

Parts required:
From a 1988 (or similar body type) Mazda MX-6 GT Turbo, obtain the following parts:

Turbo Manifold
Turbo
Down-Pipe
Intercooler
Air By-Pass Valve (Denso brand)

Firstly, to mount the intercooler, you will have to relocate the battery to the trunk, using 4 gauge power wire, and grounding out the Negative Terminal under the hood, and Grounding the battery in the trunk. Use a Marine Battery case in the trunk, and vent it to the external of the car. New battery terminals, wiring, various terminals will be required. I recommend the purchase of a decent “complete” wiring kit from a local car audio shop – its FAR cheaper than purchasing the wiring sepperately. Remember, you will need both negative and positive terminals. If you runs a powerful car stereo, the Positive terminal is recommended to have two 4 gauge hook ups.

Remove the entire Exhaust from the Accent. Manifolds, muffler, everything. You will have to disconnect the Mid-pipe O2 sensor from the electrics, which involves pulling up the carpet and removing the shifter console to get it disconnected, from the drivers side.

Once the exhaust system is out, take off the Muffler section, and get a nice high flow Muffler, and have your local exhaust shop weld it on with the hangers for CASH. Shouldn’t cost more than 30 bucks.

Remove the Exhaust manifold from the Mid-pipe, right at the flange near the Catalytic converter.
Cut off the Collectors from the Manifold section, keeping only the O2 bung and the flange with the small piece of pipe.
NOTE: Inside Diameter of exhaust: 1.75”

Under the engine!
Drain Coolant
Drain Oil
Remove the Radiator hoses, and remove the radiator.
Remove the Oil Pan – you will need high temperature Sealant (make-your-own-gasket stuff) for later when you install the Oil Pan. Hyundai Parts Dept will sell you same stuff as Canadian Tire or the US version, Autozone.

To the Mazda parts.
Remove the Turbo from the Manifold if not done already, and save the gasket if in good condition.
Order and pickup Manifold gaskets from Mazda Parts Dept.
Remove the Down-pipe collector from the Turbo
Send off the Manifold and the Down-pipe collector for Sand-Blasting and Alumi-coating.

Turbo – Clean it up, and polish at will.
Remove the Solenoid from the Turbo, as this part is actuated by the Mazda ECU and simply bypass it to the Wastegate, if 7.3 lbs of boost is desired. Install a Ball & Spring type boost controller if more boost is desired.

ADAPTOR!
Go to your local Metal Supermarket, and get a piece of 6061 Aluminum, Solid block of the stuff, measuring 14”x3.5”x2”
The adaptor is going to do as it supposed to – adapt the Hyundai exhaust ports, which are evenly spaced to the pair-spaced Mazda Manifold.
Layout your Hyundai exhaust gasket on a piece of Legal size paper or smooth cardboard, and Trace it out, including the bolt holes.
Then, lay out the Mazda gaskets, carefully making sure they will line up with the actual Manifold, hold them down, and trace them.
You will notice obviously, that the Mazda manifold holes do not line up with the Hyundai Holes.

NOTE: Port size for Hyundai and Mazda is 1.5”

The two out-most port holes will be close, only out by about an 8th of an inch.
The inner port holes will be off by around 1 inch.

The adapter plate is to make them match up, by drilling on the appropriate angle from the Mazda side, to the Hyundai side.

Also, Drill the Hyundai mounting holes, all the way through the adaptor, and countersink so the nuts will bolt up to the studs on the Hyundai block. Be careful, and measure before you drill with your drill press. Do not countersink any farther than 1.75” into the metal, or the remaining .25” will not be sufficient to maintain the heat and weight of the turbo, and will bend or crack. Countersink 1.5”, not farther.

NOTE: USE ONLY A DRILL PRESS TO DRILL HOLES – NOT A HAND DRILL. This is imperative, it is far to easy to screw up the drilling with a hand drill, and that $53.00 piece of aluminum will be scrap.

The Hyundai mounting holes drilled and countersunk, the Mazda Manifold will bolt up to the adaptor using studs – so DO NOT DRILL THE MAZDA HOLES ALL THE WAY THROUGH. 1.5” should be sufficient, and obtain 6 studs to suit the application, with flared nuts to match. Once the stud holes are drilled for the Mazda side, tap them with an appropriate tap. Install the studs, DO NOT TORQUE DOWN. Finger tight will do for now.

Drill, tap, and mount the coolant in and out, and oil in and out fittings to the engine block and oil pan, noting the hose diameters from the turbo, and using the fitting to match, so they match up perfectly.
Use Teflon tape to make sure your fittings are leak-proof.

Mount the finished adaptor plate to the Hyundai engine, installing the gasket as well. Torque down as specified in the manual, or as on webtech (same thing)
Install the Mazda Manifold to the adaptor plate, using the studs and nuts. DO NOT TORQUE DOWN VERY HARD. 6061 Aluminum will take the temperature of the engine and exhaust (Aluminum melts at just over 1200 degrees), but it is a soft and light metal, and you will strip the bolt holes VERY EASILY. You have been warned.

If you strip a bolt hole, the adaptor is SCRAP.

Install the nicely cleaned up Down-pipe collector to the turbo using new nuts – cause they are clean and look pretty. I recommend grade 6 bolts or better, and stainless steel.

With the adaptor installed, the Turbo Manifold and its Gaskets installed, install the flange gasket, and install the turbo.

The O2 sensor on the Mazda down-pipe collector will have to go, and sealed with a bolt.
The Exhuast let off on the side of the Mazda Manifold will have to be removed, and sealed with a bolt.

Now, take the Mazda Downpipe, and cut off the Turbo exhaust flange. Taking your Hyundai manifold flange pipe with the Hyundai O2 bung and the Mazda down-pipe flange, go to a local exhaust shop, and have them weld up a flex pipe, and make you a Down Pipe.
Install the Hyunda O2 Sensor.
Take your custom down pipe, and bolt it on to the turbo, and to the Mid-pipe.
Bolt on your muffler section, with your new muffler already welded on.
Raise it up, and put the exhaust onto the hangers.

Intercooler, the installation is flexible to easy installer, but I will list my method.

The Intercooler has two small mounting points on one side, and a large bracket on the other. Parts of these will have to go, by cutting them off.
Obtain some 1” 10 or 8 gauge steel sheet from Metal Supermarket, about 14” long or so, to make some supports for the intercooler. The intercooler simply needs to be drilled, and riveted into place.

Sensors and tubing.
The MAF Sensor will have to relocated to the Turbo Intake., some work is required with metal or rubber tubing – but its not all that hard.

Air bypass valve – this goes before the Throttle body, and bleeds off to the Turbo Air intake, between the MAF and the turbo inlet.
The ABV’s vacuum hose goes to a fitting which will have to be drilled into the Intake Manifold, for its vacuum source.
Use a T Fitting, and you can get your source here as well for your boost gauge.

Otherwise – your pretty well done, save for your PVC hoses, and Idle Bypass hoses. Search the Turbo forums for solutions here, as engine models are ultimately slightly different, and different people have had different successes solving these little problems.

I think that’s about it!

This isn’t step by step per say, but anyone with technical inclination will be able to pick this up.
I hope this give you all great ideas!

Really… when you think about it – this similar application would work on almost any application where a 4 cylinder Turbo motor is the Donor car.

Have fun!!
I should have pic’s up in the next 2 weeks.
-Scott/Grimmy




[Edited by grimmy on May 16, 2004 5:30 PM]
 
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#3 ·
huh huh huh

you said 'flared nuts'


um thats an idea though, making an exhaust manifold adapter plate from aluminum. never heard that one before.

if it works out for you in the long run then good job, all the power to you.
 
#4 ·
yeah - I will probably do a DIY on this - but ya gotta think - a DIY on a TURBO installation would be huge, so I would have to try and summarize as best I could, and hope that the person doing it isnt a numbskull and has some technical experience.


Oh yeah - this is for the 1.5L DOHC GT engine.
-Grimmy
 
#8 ·
**Yeppers! came in, and damn - I forgot how nice they look its been so long since I have had one! I appologize for not sending you a confirmation and thank you email so....

THANKS!!!!!!
-Scott/Grimmy**

btw all - going to take some film pictures tonight - gotta get em developed and scanned before posting... gotta work on the fittings tonight so I can go to Princess Auto and get some hose.
-Scott/Grimmy

[Edited by grimmy on May 7, 2004 1:48 PM]
 
#10 ·
I like your entire idea, but I need to warn you about the adapter.

Any aluminum, 6061 included, will start changing it's crystaline structure at 350 deg. You will not have any flow or color change, nothing dramatic at all. The aluminum will simply becom brittle and begin to crack and crumble. Mild steel is what you need to use. I know that it is not as home shop friendly, but it will endure over time.
 
#11 ·
I am just curious.. why is it you have to tear out your carpet to get at your second o2 sensor? Every Accent I've ever seen has a clip where it plugs into at the rear of the engine :puzzled:

If you screw up threads in aluminum, it is not scrap. Get something called a heli-coil kit in the proper size. You drill the threads out, tap the hole with the special tap, and then thread the coil insert down in. This gives you steel threads in aluminum. It would actaully be smarter to do this in the first place. Like sated above though, it would be in your best interest to use steel though. Ever seen an alum exhaust manifold before? :dead:

Otherwise, good luck man. Hope you have fuel delivery sorted out here as well. I realize you are useing a DOHC engine, but for anybody else, it would be easier to buy a scoupe manifold and making an adapter plate from that outlet to the IHI turbo inlet. Even easier though, is to use a garrett T25 that bolts right up.
 
#12 ·
You know Black Devil, I like you and all (not that you would care) but I'vr read two posts ny you now, and both are negative sounding... :ermm: i don't know if you had a bad day or what, but man just you aren't doing anything with your car doesn't mean you have to take it out on everybody else... Give him a brake he's using ingenuity, creativity, not to mention it's cheap...

As for the downstream O2 sensor, I had to pull my carpet up too... The wires go up through the floor under the console... The O2 sensor you are referring to is the upstream, or first one...:D Have a nice day!

Rob

P.S.

Keep up the good work Grimmy! I think its awsome that you building a DIY setup, it shows true mechanical skills. As for the aluminum, save up now to replace it with soft steal in the future. The guys have a point:nervous: Soft steel isn't that bad to work with, it is soft... lol!
 
#13 ·
Originally posted by Mytherial
[body]
I like your entire idea, but I need to warn you about the adapter.

Any aluminum, 6061 included, will start changing it's crystaline structure at 350 deg. You will not have any flow or color change, nothing dramatic at all. The aluminum will simply becom brittle and begin to crack and crumble. Mild steel is what you need to use. I know that it is not as home shop friendly, but it will endure over time.
[/body]
hmmm. Didnt know that. I was planningon using 6061-T6 aluminum, which reportedly is good for warmer temperature applications.

A quick thought - I could have sworn that the heads on the 1.5L DOHC engine are made of aluminum. Hmmm. :ermm:

I'll call Metal supermarket and see what they got in stock for soft steel, but I would prefer to keep the weight down on the heads exhaust studs.


Originally posted by BlackDevil
[body]
I am just curious.. why is it you have to tear out your carpet to get at your second o2 sensor? Every Accent I've ever seen has a clip where it plugs into at the rear of the engine :puzzled:

If you screw up threads in aluminum, it is not scrap. Get something called a heli-coil kit in the proper size. You drill the threads out, tap the hole with the special tap, and then thread the coil insert down in. This gives you steel threads in aluminum. It would actaully be smarter to do this in the first place. Like sated above though, it would be in your best interest to use steel though. Ever seen an alum exhaust manifold before? :dead:

Otherwise, good luck man. Hope you have fuel delivery sorted out here as well. I realize you are useing a DOHC engine, but for anybody else, it would be easier to buy a scoupe manifold and making an adapter plate from that outlet to the IHI turbo inlet. Even easier though, is to use a garrett T25 that bolts right up.
[/body]
Welp, you havent looked at mine or others. This sensor is right under the drivers and passengers seats, and comes up into the passenger compartment, through a grommet. I already had all my carpet out of the car for dying (color change to black) so it was easy to get at. I couldn't see getting at the hookup as being even remotely plug 'n 'play, some dissassembly would be required.

Heli-coil - yes I know what they are. I am installing a turbo into my car with my own two hands, and I do ALL of my own service to my car. What am I? Stupid? However, getting a 3/8" heli coil is not an easy thing. I have to special order it, and it takes some time to get. getting a smaller coil, like 1/4" or smaller is next to impossible, I have not been able to find one.

The purpose of this exersize was not to TELL or DIRECT anyone as to how they must install a turbo setup. This is just disgustingly cost effective, as you can get everything from one model of donor car - the whole kit n' caboodle, and install it for cheap.
Not all of us have the money to go and order or find a Scoupe turbo manifold, the gasgets, the turbo, and nice pretty BOV, wasgate, and peice it all together, with some considerable cost I might add.
Its simply a different way of doing something, which can be very cost effective.

Otherwise, I don't like your negative tone. Gimme some slack - at least I am trying something new and effective on my car, rather than nothing at all.

Originally posted by rab71
[body]
You know Black Devil, I like you and all (not that you would care) but I'vr read two posts ny you now, and both are negative sounding... :ermm: i don't know if you had a bad day or what, but man just you aren't doing anything with your car doesn't mean you have to take it out on everybody else... Give him a brake he's using ingenuity, creativity, not to mention it's cheap...

As for the downstream O2 sensor, I had to pull my carpet up too... The wires go up through the floor under the console... The O2 sensor you are referring to is the upstream, or first one...:D Have a nice day!

Rob

P.S.

Keep up the good work Grimmy! I think its awsome that you building a DIY setup, it shows true mechanical skills. As for the aluminum, save up now to replace it with soft steal in the future. The guys have a point:nervous: Soft steel isn't that bad to work with, it is soft... lol!
[/body]
Thanks dude, the support is appreciated! I priced out the aluminum at $53.00 CAD plus taxes. I presume soft steel would be a bit cheaper, though heavier.
A great thing with aluminum is that it polishes up real nice, and so does steel, but in high temp situations, its going to rust.
If worse comes to worse, I can use the soft steel, sand blast it smooth, and get it alumi-coated. My next door neighbor has a coating shop.


Any one have thoughts about the aluminum? What grade aluminum are the heads made from on the 1.5L engine? They seem to hold up pretty good to heat (keeping in mind that coolant runs through em)

Thanks!
Grimmy
 
#14 ·
Aluminum head temperatures range between 170 to just slightly above 200 deg C. The rapid heat transfer between the aluminum and the criculating coolant does indeed make the difference. Your exhaust, on the other hand, has no cooling at all with the exception of radiant cooling. Aluminum, unless it is a specially constructed high temperature alloy containing a nice percentage of titanium or other exotic, will start to suffer from crystalization and stress relief fatigue at 350 deg C. Boot up Google and do a search for Aluminum High Temperature and you will see quite a few papers covering it. I honestly do not know what the temperature will be at your exhaust manifold, but with a nice hot turbo sitting very close to your adapter plate I don't see a very high percentage of radiant cooling in your future.

Good luck with this. I am seriously considering doing this very thing. Keep us all updated becasue if nothing else your doing it and I am just spectating and speculating.

Joey
 
#15 ·
I see... (holy google hits batman!)

The melting point of (relatively basic) Aluminum is 1200 degree's or so - which is just under the temperature of exhaust on a heavy loaded engine (example: truck with large engine under HEAVY towing load)

But I see the problem non-the-less.

I called metal supermarket, and they have some Cold Roll Steel 1018 Grade. they have enough of it for my application, and the cost is $52.64 CAD plus taxes- 36 cents cheaper than the aluminum. They have a peice 49 inches long, so they can cut me a peice the required 14 inches long.

Thoughts on the 1018 Grade Cold Roll? Metal Supermarkets says it will do the job, and it will have a better looking finish too.

It just will take longer with the drill press, and a 1 1/2" bit for the exhuast port holes.

Also - regarding Fuel delivery, as mentioned:
Originally posted by BlackDevil
[body]
Otherwise, good luck man. Hope you have fuel delivery sorted out here as well. I realize you are useing a DOHC engine, but for anybody else, it would be easier to buy a scoupe manifold and making an adapter plate from that outlet to the IHI turbo inlet. Even easier though, is to use a garrett T25 that bolts right up.
[/body]
It is my understanding that as the Hyundai already runs pig rich out of the box, and the ECU will adjust to the maximum it can to compensate for the boost.
We are only talking 7.3 lbs 'o boost here.

I can't recall where, but I read that the stock fuel system can handle up to 8 or even 10 lbs before modification's are required. An SAFC may be added later for tuning, if I can get the cash together for the hardware, and the hour or two on a dyno in Toronto.

Thoughts?

Btw, the manifold and turbo's downpipe are going in for sandblasting and alumicoating tonight, should be done in a couple of days.

-Grimmy
 
#16 ·
Oh NO dude, I tried that stock route with 6psi... Didn't work too badly with a larger pump, but that stock pump isn't going to work for you. Get an air/fuel gauge... If you don't already have one. No way you are gonna run 8-10psi on totally stock fuel system... Do you even have a RRFPR, or FMU? Anything?

Rob:nervous:
 
#17 ·
Going to be running 7.2 lbs
A/F gauge still needs to be purchased.

no modifications at this point to fuel system.
I refer to this thread for lean vs rich and the stock fuel system.
http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=50385

Cost effective Recommendations?
I am getting low on money pretty fast. I am thinking of taking out a loan of like $2,000.00 to finish this project, paint, rims, stereo upgrades. I figure I have another 2-300 bucks left to be spent on the turbo installation, and engine repairs (ie clutch fluid replacment, new fuel filter, starter motor).

-Grimmy

[Edited by grimmy on May 12, 2004 8:46 AM]
 
#18 ·
I realize you were just giving an example of how to do things.. It's not the best way to do things though, if you have an SOHC, thats why I mentioned the scoupemanifold n stuff. Anyway..

brand-new t25 - $220 shipped
scoupe manifold - $ 112 shipped
gaskets - probably less that $50
bov (1g dsm) - $20 on ebay or less
wastegate - internal, comes w/ the turbo

Thats a little less than $400, rough estimate, for that stuff if you're doing an SOHC.

Yea.. I have my ideas for how to do things. I'm not really bitter that I'm not doing anything to my car (I spend all my time and money on an old kawasaki), I just have my thoughts on how I'd do all of this.. but I'm not, so I bitch for fun.. lol I dunno. Sorry if I pissed anybody off
 
#19 ·
Its ok dude, I totally understand what your saying.

The goal of this specific project was to do a turbo installation for as little as possible, all accessories and such included.

As an Idea, I got the following for $150.00 CAD.
Turbo (internal wastegate)
Air Bypass Valve
Manifold
Turbo Extractors (no down-pipe though)
fittings off the donor car
Intercooler
Oil Cooler
Various bolts and such, lines, and tons of hose clamps
2" black PVC reinforced hose

so you can see, there isnt much more required - a couple of hundred at most, inclusive of gauges and the like.

Any thoughts for a cost effective fuel distribution solution?

-Grimmy
 
#20 ·
for fuel, talk to rab.. he has done it and knows what you can get by with on a decent budget, I would bet. I would say get the tib injectors and MAF, a bigger fuel pump (dsm stock pump, or 255lph walbro for a dsm) and an fpr/fmu/whatever they call those silly things this week, with a set fuel pressure rise to boost pressure rise. This will get you fuel but it will have to be at higher pressures, and they say it is not very good to run over 60 psi.

What would be better, but more expensive, is using maf/injectors, pump, and an SAFC. I have just recently talked to ace_cobra and he explained his setup to me and why/how this works. Also, he doesn't run a rising rate fpr, but you could add one of those as well to help tine tune mechanically. When I say that, I'm not meaning a vortech or the like, but rather a higher quality piece with more adjustments, like one by aeromotive.
 
#21 ·
ugh. sounds like alot of money I dont have.

I got a page of misc sh!t Istill have to get, and my car is half apart, ready for this thing to go in. my next pay is basically going to fittings and some hose

I get my manifold and downpipe collector back from sandblasting and alumi-coating tommorow or friday.

Money is tight - so here's what I am thinkin.

-Walbro 255 fuel pump for eclipse (modified, something about the accent middle peice being swaped into the Walbro pump, and the Accent fuel filter on the Walbro pump as the walbro fuel filter will interfere with the float) - Walbro Pump - $100 USD on ebay
-Tiburon Injectors - Wreckers
-Tiburon MAF sensor - Wreckers
-Fuel pressure regulator - ebay?!?! I dunno.

Any specific Model number of Walbro pump I am lookin for here?
Any specific Fuel regulator recommended?

Lastly, I dont have the money for one even close to 2 months away, but MAYBE an SAFC. Will the above do until I get a SAFC?

Thanks guys - today was really frustrating with the car - until now I had no hitches... but the list of sh!t to get was pretty depressing - its just money I dont have.

Again, Thanks.
Scott/Grimmy

[Edited by grimmy on May 12, 2004 10:16 PM]
 
#22 ·
Welp, my ignorance of reality was punctured today, as I worked hard on my car for the last two days.

I unfortunately have been working hard, to add to the list of new sh!t to buy. Namely, working backwards, spending money, and not seeing any results whatsoever, save for some shiney new fvcking parts on the car, and it still not close to even being able to run.

Basically, if I could afford insurance, I would drive it at 180 into a brick wall, or better yet, torch it at the end of my driveway.

Here's the list as it stands right now...

Turbo Oil Lines & Fittings
Turbo Coolant lines & Fittings
Air Intake Piping
Air Filter and fittings
Air Bypass Valve return hose and fittings
Nylon Tube for Boost gauges and fittings
Fuel Filter
Starter motor rebuild
Steel Block for Manifold Adaptor
Clutch fluid for replacment
Oil
Coolant
Various Drill Bits
Various Specialty Bolts
Steel Plate for Down-pipe Flange
Down-Pipe Exhaust tubing, with bends and without
Flex-Pipe
Air/Fuel Gauge
Guage pod
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Tiburon MAF sensor
Tiburon Fuel Injectors
Fuel Pressure Regulator
HKS AFR Fuel piggyback
Alternator

Door Skins
Window Crank Arms
Drivers Side Window Actuator Assembly
Center Console
Fabric for seat covers
Bondo and applicators
Fibrer Glass and resin
Primer
Sanding paper - Various grades

New struts, all around
Lowering springs
Paint Job
Tiburon Rims
Tires
Brake Caliper/Drum Paint

Total Bill: $3842 give or take $200.

Anyone want to buy a 1997 Hyundai Accent GT, almost completely disassembled, with 200,000km, that doesnt run?
Asking price: $5700 bucks to the bank so I can remove the lein on it.

To think I financed this peice of sh!t.

Oh yeah - Purchase price financed with TD/Canada Trust: $20,000 Canadian Fvcking Dollarbacl in November of 1997. Still paying for it 7 years later.

Welp, gotta go to work on Monday, pack my personal belongings, quit, walk outa the door, and go find a new job - hopefully at MacDonalds or chaning oil at Canadian tire - cuz either of em would be better then what I do now.

See you in a few months or if all goes well - weeks...

Ladies and gents - thanks for your help, advise and thoughts regardless.

Best,
Scott Farmer /Grimmy

[Edited by grimmy on May 16, 2004 5:48 PM]
 
#23 ·
Well there's no such thing as a cheap turbo tuning. If you do it right you end up spending a fortune. That's why I'm without my car for 5 months now as my project requires $5000 USD for the engine and another $5000 USD for the rest of the car I don't have. Sorry to hear you're stuck, there is nothing more frustrating than being set back with your ideas due to lack of funds. I know that. Hope you get back on track soon.
 
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