Installation of MX-6 GT Turbo IHI Turbo - PROJECT SUSPENDED
Installation of MX-6 GT Turbo IHI Turbo into Hyundai Accent
Turbo Make and Model:
RHB52 KW VJ-11 (Model)
This Installation technique, is VERY cost effective, and is not all that hard for someone who is technically inclined.
From a 1988 (or similar body type) Mazda MX-6 GT Turbo, obtain the following parts:
Air By-Pass Valve (Denso brand)
Firstly, to mount the intercooler, you will have to relocate the battery to the trunk, using 4 gauge power wire, and grounding out the Negative Terminal under the hood, and Grounding the battery in the trunk. Use a Marine Battery case in the trunk, and vent it to the external of the car. New battery terminals, wiring, various terminals will be required. I recommend the purchase of a decent “complete” wiring kit from a local car audio shop – its FAR cheaper than purchasing the wiring sepperately. Remember, you will need both negative and positive terminals. If you runs a powerful car stereo, the Positive terminal is recommended to have two 4 gauge hook ups.
Remove the entire Exhaust from the Accent. Manifolds, muffler, everything. You will have to disconnect the Mid-pipe O2 sensor from the electrics, which involves pulling up the carpet and removing the shifter console to get it disconnected, from the drivers side.
Once the exhaust system is out, take off the Muffler section, and get a nice high flow Muffler, and have your local exhaust shop weld it on with the hangers for CASH. Shouldn’t cost more than 30 bucks.
Remove the Exhaust manifold from the Mid-pipe, right at the flange near the Catalytic converter.
Cut off the Collectors from the Manifold section, keeping only the O2 bung and the flange with the small piece of pipe.
NOTE: Inside Diameter of exhaust: 1.75”
Under the engine!
Remove the Radiator hoses, and remove the radiator.
Remove the Oil Pan – you will need high temperature Sealant (make-your-own-gasket stuff) for later when you install the Oil Pan. Hyundai Parts Dept will sell you same stuff as Canadian Tire or the US version, Autozone.
To the Mazda parts.
Remove the Turbo from the Manifold if not done already, and save the gasket if in good condition.
Order and pickup Manifold gaskets from Mazda Parts Dept.
Remove the Down-pipe collector from the Turbo
Send off the Manifold and the Down-pipe collector for Sand-Blasting and Alumi-coating.
Turbo – Clean it up, and polish at will.
Remove the Solenoid from the Turbo, as this part is actuated by the Mazda ECU and simply bypass it to the Wastegate, if 7.3 lbs of boost is desired. Install a Ball & Spring type boost controller if more boost is desired.
Go to your local Metal Supermarket, and get a piece of 6061 Aluminum, Solid block of the stuff, measuring 14”x3.5”x2”
The adaptor is going to do as it supposed to – adapt the Hyundai exhaust ports, which are evenly spaced to the pair-spaced Mazda Manifold.
Layout your Hyundai exhaust gasket on a piece of Legal size paper or smooth cardboard, and Trace it out, including the bolt holes.
Then, lay out the Mazda gaskets, carefully making sure they will line up with the actual Manifold, hold them down, and trace them.
You will notice obviously, that the Mazda manifold holes do not line up with the Hyundai Holes.
NOTE: Port size for Hyundai and Mazda is 1.5”
The two out-most port holes will be close, only out by about an 8th of an inch.
The inner port holes will be off by around 1 inch.
The adapter plate is to make them match up, by drilling on the appropriate angle from the Mazda side, to the Hyundai side.
Also, Drill the Hyundai mounting holes, all the way through the adaptor, and countersink so the nuts will bolt up to the studs on the Hyundai block. Be careful, and measure before you drill with your drill press. Do not countersink any farther than 1.75” into the metal, or the remaining .25” will not be sufficient to maintain the heat and weight of the turbo, and will bend or crack. Countersink 1.5”, not farther.
NOTE: USE ONLY A DRILL PRESS TO DRILL HOLES – NOT A HAND DRILL. This is imperative, it is far to easy to screw up the drilling with a hand drill, and that $53.00 piece of aluminum will be scrap.
The Hyundai mounting holes drilled and countersunk, the Mazda Manifold will bolt up to the adaptor using studs – so DO NOT DRILL THE MAZDA HOLES ALL THE WAY THROUGH. 1.5” should be sufficient, and obtain 6 studs to suit the application, with flared nuts to match. Once the stud holes are drilled for the Mazda side, tap them with an appropriate tap. Install the studs, DO NOT TORQUE DOWN. Finger tight will do for now.
Drill, tap, and mount the coolant in and out, and oil in and out fittings to the engine block and oil pan, noting the hose diameters from the turbo, and using the fitting to match, so they match up perfectly.
Use Teflon tape to make sure your fittings are leak-proof.
Mount the finished adaptor plate to the Hyundai engine, installing the gasket as well. Torque down as specified in the manual, or as on webtech (same thing)
Install the Mazda Manifold to the adaptor plate, using the studs and nuts. DO NOT TORQUE DOWN VERY HARD. 6061 Aluminum will take the temperature of the engine and exhaust (Aluminum melts at just over 1200 degrees), but it is a soft and light metal, and you will strip the bolt holes VERY EASILY. You have been warned.
If you strip a bolt hole, the adaptor is SCRAP.
Install the nicely cleaned up Down-pipe collector to the turbo using new nuts – cause they are clean and look pretty. I recommend grade 6 bolts or better, and stainless steel.
With the adaptor installed, the Turbo Manifold and its Gaskets installed, install the flange gasket, and install the turbo.
The O2 sensor on the Mazda down-pipe collector will have to go, and sealed with a bolt.
The Exhuast let off on the side of the Mazda Manifold will have to be removed, and sealed with a bolt.
Now, take the Mazda Downpipe, and cut off the Turbo exhaust flange. Taking your Hyundai manifold flange pipe with the Hyundai O2 bung and the Mazda down-pipe flange, go to a local exhaust shop, and have them weld up a flex pipe, and make you a Down Pipe.
Install the Hyunda O2 Sensor.
Take your custom down pipe, and bolt it on to the turbo, and to the Mid-pipe.
Bolt on your muffler section, with your new muffler already welded on.
Raise it up, and put the exhaust onto the hangers.
Intercooler, the installation is flexible to easy installer, but I will list my method.
The Intercooler has two small mounting points on one side, and a large bracket on the other. Parts of these will have to go, by cutting them off.
Obtain some 1” 10 or 8 gauge steel sheet from Metal Supermarket, about 14” long or so, to make some supports for the intercooler. The intercooler simply needs to be drilled, and riveted into place.
Sensors and tubing.
The MAF Sensor will have to relocated to the Turbo Intake., some work is required with metal or rubber tubing – but its not all that hard.
Air bypass valve – this goes before the Throttle body, and bleeds off to the Turbo Air intake, between the MAF and the turbo inlet.
The ABV’s vacuum hose goes to a fitting which will have to be drilled into the Intake Manifold, for its vacuum source.
Use a T Fitting, and you can get your source here as well for your boost gauge.
Otherwise – your pretty well done, save for your PVC hoses, and Idle Bypass hoses. Search the Turbo forums for solutions here, as engine models are ultimately slightly different, and different people have had different successes solving these little problems.
I think that’s about it!
This isn’t step by step per say, but anyone with technical inclination will be able to pick this up.
I hope this give you all great ideas!
Really… when you think about it – this similar application would work on almost any application where a 4 cylinder Turbo motor is the Donor car.
I should have pic’s up in the next 2 weeks.
[Edited by grimmy on May 16, 2004 5:30 PM]