this is a guide to those of you who have already done your swap....the following parts are essential for your HyunDSM to make unbelievable horsepower.
Intake Pipe and Filter
A performance intake filter will help throttle response and help all future mods achieve maximum performance. A hard intake pipe will also improve air flow over the factory piece.
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Step 2:
Aftermarket Boost Gauge
The stock boost gauge is simply not accurate. To avoid severe engine damage when increasing boost levels, an aftermarket unit is mandatory.
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Step 3:
Boost Controller
In order to raise boost levels, you'll need a boost controller. Whether it be a manual or electronic unit will depend on your budget.
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Step 4:
Cat-back Exhaust System
A 2.5" or 3", high flow exhaust system is needed to gain more power. The factory exhuast is very restrictive and hurts power.
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Step 5:
High Flow Cat/Straight Pipe
Replace the factory catalytic converter with a larger, higher flowing unit. For off road use, simply bolt up a straight pipe in it's place - of course, this is obviously not street legal.
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Step 6:
High Flow Downpipe
The factory downpipe is very restrictive and should be replaced with a larger, better flowing unit. For Stage 1, a 2.5" downpipe will do. If future plans involve 500+ horsepower, consider a 3" downpipe.
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Step 7:
Exhaust Manifold
The exhaust manifold on 1G DSMs are notorious for cracking and leaking. The solution is to replace it with a ported factory 95-99 exhaust manifold. If you're planning on going with a full Garrett turbo, you'll need a special manifold.
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Step 8:
O2 Sensor Housing
The downpipe bolts up to a 90 degree elbow called the O2 Sensor Housing. This is the last restriction in the exhaust system. The stock unit can be ported out, or you can simply buy a better flowing unit.
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Step 9:
Fuel Pump
The stock fuel pump will not be able to supply the needed fuel for long - especially if the boost level is raised. A high flow unit will be needed. It's also a good idea to re-wire the fuel pump for consistent fuel pressure.
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Step 10:
Intercooler Piping
The rubber intercooler piping should be replaced with better flowing solid pipes. Some replacements will come with a larger throttle body elbow (which is needed also). The turbo outlet elbow should be swapped out for a larger unit as well. Please note that if a Stage 2 setup is in the plans, this upgrade may not be necessary as the intercooler piping will likely be routed differently.
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Step 11:
Performance Clutch
With more power on tap, the stock clutch probably won't last that long. It will start to slip, especially in the higher gears. This means it's time for a high performance clutch.
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After you do THAT........
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EGT Gauge
In order to begin tuning and/or to avoid severe engine damage, it's necessary to install an EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge and probe to monitor the temperature of your engine. Extremely high temps can be catastrophic.
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Step 2:
Logging Software
Before you can safely begin making fuel adjustments, you'll need to know what's going on inside the engine. Logging software will give you this data and will help you decide what fuel delivery changes are needed - this is a critical tool to prevent major engine damage.
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Step 3:
Fuel Controller/Engine Management
In order to control the flow of fuel of the larger injectors, you'll need some form of a fuel management system. This can be achieved by a piggy-back style computer which still uses the factory MAS, or using a stand alone fuel system which replaces the MAS. This will be the key component in your system.
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Step 4:
Fuel Injector Upgrade
To supply the amount of fuel necessary for Stage 2, the stock fuel injectors will need to be replaced with higher flowing units.
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Step 5:
Front Mount Intercooler Kit
The stock side mount intercooler will not be able to cool the amount of air flow needed to produce 400hp or more. Thus, it will need to be swapped out for a Front Mount Intercooler.
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Step 6:
Turbo Upgrade
At this point, the stock 14b turbo is running at it's max. In order to increase boost, a larger turbo is necessary. You'll need something larger than a 16G or 18G in order to achieve power levels above the 375hp mark. A Mitsubishi 20G, a Mitsu-Garrett hybrid, or a full Garrett setup will be needed for higher horsepower levels. Keep in mind however, that any non-Mitsu turbo will require a special exhaust manifold, external wastegate and O2 sensor housing.
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Once you've completed these mods, and only then will you have enough knowledge of how these motors handle power to go further. It is possible to get over 600 horsepower out of the 4G63 engine, but it will require some digging into the motor to add some high performance internals. I assume that if you've come this far, there's no need to explain what needs to be done next to achieve more power - you should have done all the research by now. And if you haven't gotten this far yet, you shouldn't be asking
Try to keep in mind that many repairs will need to be made when you start making these power levels due to the simple fact that things tend to break. Plan for it, especially if your car has high mileage.
-SR20
Mitsubishi Technician Extraordinaire
[courtesy of DSMtuner.com
[Edited by Sunrise_Racer_20 on Apr 15, 2003 11:35 AM]
www.dsmtuner.com
[Edited by Sunrise_Racer_20 on Apr 17, 2003 8:30 AM]