Well the car is finally done, after all that pain I had to deal with the wiring complications. I am not however driving it as it is getting a few dents fixed. After that Its gonna get a new (stage 3)clutch and a bunch of stuff. So anyways heres the How To that will help anyone who wants to do this swap:
SHOPING LIST: (LC accent)
Beta I engine (00-01 tib, 00 elantra) the beta II motor's ecm is equiped with an engine immobilizer system (smartra) which in few words will not allow your motor to start on an accent. Beta I will be that much easier.
The corresponding ecm, and wiring harness of the donor engine.
You can retain your stock accent axles without any modification
the corresponding tranny (2.0, 1.8)
a line pipe bender (home depot)
Your stock accent motor mounts.
I suggest you all get your parts from www.allhyundaiisuzuparts.com, they have alot of things in stock and give you good quality parts.
STEP 1: remove old engine as an entire unit, including the powe steering lines, resevoir, heater hoses, radiator and hoses. (if you cannot do this then stop here)
[b]STEP 2: Prep donor engine to go in, this include replacing any water pumps, belts, timing belts. Intall the alternator (the stock accent one will fit). and assemble it into a complete single unit.
STEP 3: Drop the motor in. It will be a very tight fit so be carefull. Alighn the engine so that it is parralel with the ground and all the mounting points are aligned.
STEP 4 Motor mounts. The front roll stoper can be used from the accent, while using the bracket of the beta. I welded a spacer in to make up for the 1/4 inch gap.
The rear motormount is the stock accent mount, it will bolt up to the beta tranny making it that much easier.
The tranny's top mount is composed of the accent bracket and the accent roll stopper. You will need to redrill a hole in the accent bracket to be able to bolt the mount in.
at this point you should consier measuring the clearence between the slave clutch cylinder, and the mount. As you will find out you need to cut out a chunk of it to mount the cylinder properly. The metal line that runs from your cylinder to the clutch fluid resevoir will have to be re-bent for the new transmission using a pipe bender (home depot). After you bend it reinstall it and continue.
the last motor mount is the one on the actual engine that bolts up to the frame. You have several options. You can have the accent one redone by a shop or by yourself if you have a drill press and all that good ish. Or, you can turn the accent mount upside down, bolt it in back wards on to the frames bracket, and have a custom bracket plate made and welded (easier)
(note: the bracket was not yet welded in at this point to show the layout of the motor mount.)
STEP 5: Now you can go ahead and hook up the shifter cable onto your tranny. These are exacly the same, only if you use the stock accent metal cable clips you will have to grind the edge of it to make room for the starter. Connect the throttle cable, fuel lines, radiator and hoses. You can retain one of the hoses but will have to buy the beta hose so that it will hook up to the bottom of the radiator.
STEP 6: After you have taken care of the above, slide the axles in place. The clips will NOT lock inside the tranny if u use the accent axles, but this should not be a problem because they fit tight and have absolutely no room to slip out.
STEP 7: WIRING :??: If you have the beta I then i recommend you swap the entire harness and ecm out. To do this you will completely need to rewire the new harness to work with the stock accent fuse box and inline connectors associated with the controll harness. Yo will have to rewire the power distribution and several ecm wires (ON/start input, fuel pump relay control, ect ect) I recommend you buy the Electrical Trubleshooting Manual for both the accent and your donor engines car. Everything you need to know is there. I will not post up the exact modifications because that will take forever. If you have any specific questions you can post or email and i will tell you. It is really not as hard as you think, you just need to focus and be do one wire at a time.
To remove the old harness in its entirety you will need to remove the entire dash, and crash pad, as well as the big metal bar that runs the width of your car under the dash. You will have to remove the heater core, to tull it out. This can get reall messy real quick so make sure to remember where everything goes, or write it down.
All that is left to do is put in the modified harness, connect all the inline connectors, mount the new ecm and run the wires out to the engine bay. I recommend you connect all the sensors, the pedals and everything else before you put the dash back in in case you need to trubleshoot the harness for whatever reason.
STEP 8 Final check. Make sure you fill the engine with oil, and the transsmision with SAE 75w/90 gear oil, have everything conected properly, then put the dash back in and enjoy :smoking:
TIPS: There are a few thing you need to know that will be helpful in the procces of the swap.
1. Your stock speedometer is cable driven, whereas the beta one is electronic. Make sure you swap the accent speedo cable motor from your accent tranny to your beta tranny, they WILL fit.
2. You will not be able to retain PS unless you buy the neccesary parts to make the powersteering pump from the beta work with the accent lines and so forth, or custum install the PS pump.
3. If you had a/c, well now you dont
If anyone has any ?'s post and ill try my best to answer them.
[Edited by bizzare on Jul 29, 2003 5:42 PM]
[Edited by bizzare on Jul 29, 2003 5:46 PM]
[Edited by bizzare on Jul 29, 2003 5:48 PM]
[Edited by bizzare on Jul 29, 2003 5:50 PM]
[Edited by bizzare on Nov 28, 2004 2:13 PM]
Re: My LC beta swap diary UPDATED!! (56k warning)
but have a couple of ?'s. Why would you shorten the axles if you are using the stock tranny, and do your elantras (canadian) have engine immobilizers? If so what ecm did you use? Maybe I can buy an ecm from canada to use it on mine8D
Linear Mode
