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Old 11-23-2007, 07:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default What power/quarter mile to expect?

Ok so i'm looking at taking a 96/97 accent, swapping in the beta 2.0, and turboing using a 14b from a gsx. Don't give me the lecture about "oh you're going to need these injectors and that clutch" etc etc as i already know and have them planned into the build. So with a full setup running 14-15psi on a beta 2.0 what kind of dyno numbers can i expect, and what kind of 1/4 mile times will i be looking at?
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Old 11-24-2007, 04:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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A friend of mine with a Eclipse GS-T which is also a 2.0 liter running a 14b runs decent times... Depending on how aggressive your setup and tuning, you're looking for a mid 13 second car. I had a EvoIII 16g on mine running 18-20 psi and 110 octane race fuel and I ran 12.7 in an Eagle Talon AWD. I think I had my car upwards of a good 325-350 at the wheels, but I was using a G-Tech and they're not really that accurate and I was using a homebrew tune.

Most definately lookin at a 300 whp with that setup if done correctly... G'luck

Howie~
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Old 11-24-2007, 04:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Asian_907
A friend of mine with a Eclipse GS-T which is also a 2.0 liter running a 14b runs decent times... Depending on how aggressive your setup and tuning, you're looking for a mid 13 second car. I had a EvoIII 16g on mine running 18-20 psi and 110 octane race fuel and I ran 12.7 in an Eagle Talon AWD. I think I had my car upwards of a good 325-350 at the wheels, but I was using a G-Tech and they're not really that accurate and I was using a homebrew tune.

Most definately lookin at a 300 whp with that setup if done correctly... G'luck

Howie~
Well it's also 5-700lbs lighter than a dsm. So i would guess it would run half a second faster.
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Old 11-25-2007, 12:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Granted... But I had a lot more options than a typical Beta would. A lot of your work would be completely custom such as a homebrew sheet metal intake and short route FMIC, which isn't too bad.

A GS-T and the Accent aren't too bad... An AWD Dsm is a different case cause they're friggin tanks, specially if they're auto.

There are a couple quartermile calculators online, but they're not toooooo accurate. Definately update with your build though. Quick question, why go with the 14b frmo a DSM when you can get a faster spool and more boost out of a Evo III 16g. They're a tad mroe expensive, but they feel soo much nicer :-D

Howie~
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Old 11-25-2007, 06:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Asian_907
Granted... But I had a lot more options than a typical Beta would. A lot of your work would be completely custom such as a homebrew sheet metal intake and short route FMIC, which isn't too bad.

A GS-T and the Accent aren't too bad... An AWD Dsm is a different case cause they're friggin tanks, specially if they're auto.

There are a couple quartermile calculators online, but they're not toooooo accurate. Definately update with your build though. Quick question, why go with the 14b frmo a DSM when you can get a faster spool and more boost out of a Evo III 16g. They're a tad mroe expensive, but they feel soo much nicer :-D

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Its funny you mention that because thats the way i had started leaning. I was thinking just go the cheapest route but for not much more the 16g is just a way better turbo.
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Old 11-26-2007, 02:10 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It's not a WAY better turbo...

They are similar, and the 14b's are usually more reliable and rugged... I orginally upgraded from a T25 to a 14b, and I went thruogh 2 EvoIII 16g's and I had to put the 14b back a couple times. They both pull hard, but the 16g's spools almost as fast and has powergains throughout most of the powerband, not through most of the mid and some of the high with the 14b. They'er both good turbos, but if you don't treat them right, they burn out on ya. I never cooled my 16g and I learned the hard way that you NEED the cool down period and I tried the pod filters and the steel mesh filters and THEY DONT WORK...

*sigh*

Howie~
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