No. Poly plastics have oils in them that come to the surface when they are warm. Not prepped right, they will peel because the oils make the paint lift off the surface. You need to physically clean the oil off with a solvent to get it off.
A poly is not fiberglass. Poly is black and extremely difficult to get paint to stick to it unless it is cooked before you prep it for paint. Teak wood also does this.
However on bright colors, a white base makes matching the paint much easier. I had the problem when I shot the bumper on my 01 Accent. The red would turn darker as it dried.
With the clear, it will appear duller around the edges because you can't blend clear that well. Shooting the whole thing is necessary to get a uniform look.
It appears that there is no clear on my car whatsoever. The paint color, texture, and shine match perfectly.
I don't know if it's true but I heard that Hyundai uses paint similar to those used by Maaco that contain a clearcoat like sealer right in the paint.
It appears that there is no clear on my car whatsoever. The paint color, texture, and shine match perfectly.
I don't know if it's true but I heard that Hyundai uses paint similar to those used by Maaco that contain a clearcoat like sealer right in the paint.
No. They only use 1 coat of clear. With that little clear on it, it gets imbedded into the color and the color gets mixed into the clear. To properly clear the car, you have to shoot a minimum of 4 coats of clear because the first 2 become mixed with the basecoat. Even though the base is dry when the clear is shot on, the reducer in the clear liquifies the base coat and imbeds the clear with the base. You must shoot enough layers to make the clear clear on the top. I generally shoot a minimum of 6 coats, but most of the time, I put at least 10 coats of clear on the car. After wetsanding and polishing, 6 coats are left on the car.
Maaco uses a integrated clear where a base is shot on, then a clear/base mix is shot on top of that.
I'm having that same issue on my 03 Accent, but I'm lucky as the car is black, and the bumper underneath is black.
BUT, I did notice yesterday when washing the car that I have HUGE chunks of paint flaking off in the front wheel wells where the front bumper meets the fender. I'm going to need to resolve this asap before another vermont winter.
I'm also having an issue with small spots on the roof getting rust underneath the paint and bubbling. These are most likely rock dings gone bad however from commuting everyday.
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2003 Accent GT - F&R strut bars, rear PSC sway bar, Falken Azenis rubber, TWM short shifter
1998 Accent L - <b>TURBO</b> - scoupe manifold and T15 turbo pushing 5PSI, 2.0L injectors, beta MAF, beta TB, 2 1/4 exhaust(no cat), ksports, slotted rotors w/ SS lines - much more!
Well, if you need any help figuring out how to deal with these problems let me know Matt. We just did some body work on Hon's black LC2 and it came out great. He needed a whole new fender as well as some other work.
Does anyone know where i can get touch up paint for an LC coastal blue 2002. i went ot the dealer they said they no longer make it but i thought the 2006 tib came in coastal blue. Couldnt of discontinued the color right?
I agree that this is kind of a quick way to paint, but as I've said before, that bumper material isn't worthy of the full paintjob. If you got to take the bumper off to color match, just start with a new bumper made from different material.
I don't know why they used such cheesy plastic for the LC2s but doing a "half paint-job" like you did, will give you the most reward for your expense. Kinda like painting a turd, pretty for awhile, but eventually it shows what it's really made of.
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