Sweet, I've been waiting for someone to do the front mount. How did you get it out to change it? It looks like I'd have to pull the radiator, if not out at least out of the way, and thats not something i'm really up for.
__________________
Never run out of real estate, traction & ideas at the same time.
2007 Tacoma 2wd 4cyl 5spd reg cab - DD and support truck
2002 Kartmini w/ Rotax Jr. motor
1998 Accent L - #13 FSP SCCA Solo2 in 2005, now SOLD
2001 Accent GS - RIP
i already posted that i did the 3 mounts, front rear and drivers side tranny mount.
you do not need to pull the radiator to get at it. using a 3/8 socket and long extention with 14mm small socket (deep socket will not work) you can get between the unibody welds and the front crossmmber, that small gap is there to allow access to the upper frame bolt to the mount. the bottom one you can get at easily. on the transmission side you get the 2 17mm ones off easily, and the top one bust be removed 1/6th of a turn at a time (pain in the @§§) but on all the 17's you need an open ended wrench becasue a socet plus ratchet wont get at it.
also taking out the radiator is not hard at all, it involves draining it, unclamping the intake and exit hoses, overflow hose, unplugging both fans and the 2 12mm bolts on teh top holding the mounts on. the bottom mounts are just little stud deals that sink down into a rubber grommet like the top and once the top ones are off it slides right out with fans attached. all u need is a 12mm socket and pliers to get the clamps off and it takes 5 min and a flush/fill of coolant.
__________________
reminiscing of my LC...
Quote:
Originally posted by solo-baric
[body]
Excellence in all we do. hopefully i pissed him off some more and that would be excellent.
[/body]
as beppomarx said you dont have to take the radiator out, there is a little gap for you to get in there with a 14mm socket with an extension piece of cake! remove the rubber insert and have a look at how cr@p it is! but i can't see window weld being hard enough to make that much of a difference try using this flexane 94 stuff... its heaps better even though it might cost a little bit more!!!
i did my front motor mount and it killed 95% of my wheel hop on launch. I used chemrex pro 2000. i can feel the vibration creeping @ 6200. drivablity is still very smooth. im sure it would kill it completely if i did the rear mount. 8D
__________________
"....all you need is a small taste of success and you will find its suites you...." monique - better off dead
Originally posted by Pussykatt
[body]
A few weeks ago i was doing a burnout in the accent and was getting pissed at the wheelhop, and I was wndering if anyone has tried filling their tranny/motor mounts with window weld to make them more solid? I know the guys on dsmtalk.com do that alot with their GST's. Just a thought
[/body]
Wow, this is old info.
heh
__________________
*My Hyundai sense is tingling!*
"Awwww! Gawd damn! My "H" is gone, Whats the point of owning a Hyundai if ya cant show it off?
Kore Crew #4
Haha... an easier way to fix this would to just let some air out of your front tires. I got a lot of wheelhop in my stock Elantra around turns in 1st and 2nd gear so I decided to try it and it works well. I'm supposed to run 29 PSI but I run 25-24 PSI now in both front tires and if I gun it around a turn in 1st all I get is a squeal; 2nd is practically perfect now.
Just a quick hint.. if there's something wrong w/ me doing this, let me know so I don't fuck something up.
__________________
[image]http://home.comcast.net/~nfx/myself.jpg[/image]
Obnoxious? Heh.. you don't even know.
http://importnut.net/motormount.htm
Do it; it's a great, easy, cheap mod.
__________________
2001 Nissan Sentra SE 5spd with Perf. pkg, custom 2.25" exhaust, Place Racing CAI, Intrax springs, ES shifter bushing, 19* timing, filled mounts, short shifter, PIAA's all around, all synth fluids, Nokian nrZi's, more to come...
oh sweet, i misunderstood. i though we had to do all of the mounts, but i have no idea how i'd do the front mount on my accent, and it's all filled in [not true, I just couldnt see anything from where I was looking]. looking back i see that it's only the rear mount, which i've already had to remove to install the sway bar. sweet i'll be doing the window welding this weekend, hopefully it'll keep the engine from rocking back into the front strut bar (thanks for your r&d SR!)
Edit: Okay I've done the front and rear mounts and I am very pleased with the results. I decided not to touch the side mounts because I don't know when I can just let my car sit for a day again. Doing the front mount was easy, had to remove the plastic shield and it was easy-access after that. I did decide to support the engine/tranny with a jack and a block of wood because with the two mounts removed, I could rock it very easily with just the push of a finger and I didn't feel comfortable leaving it unsupported. Coulda been fine I suppose, but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Re: window weld
i'll be doing the window welding this weekend, hopefully it'll keep the engine from rocking back into the front strut bar 
(thanks for your r&d SR!)
Linear Mode
