A few weeks ago i was doing a burnout in the accent and was getting pissed at the wheelhop, and I was wndering if anyone has tried filling their tranny/motor mounts with window weld to make them more solid? I know the guys on dsmtalk.com do that alot with their GST's. Just a thought
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1.) raise the car onto jackstands, and make sure its secure (ebrake on w/ wheel chocks, etc)
2) get under the car and fine the rear roll stopper (ie motor mount).
3)undo the three bolts connecting the mount to the subframe
4)undo the central bolt that goes through the mount, and take the mount out of the car.
5) Take a look at the mount, guess where the windo weld goes...
6) fill the mount in layers, letting each one dry completely before adding the next. It should only take a few hours. When you're done, it should look like this:
7)After making completely sure its all the way dry and cured, reinstall the mount and go for a drive, enjoying the newfound lack of engine movement.
Enjoy!
[Edited by skierd on Aug 26, 2003 2:48 PM]
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2007 Tacoma 2wd 4cyl 5spd reg cab - DD and support truck
2002 Kartmini w/ Rotax Jr. motor
1998 Accent L - #13 FSP SCCA Solo2 in 2005, now SOLD
2001 Accent GS - RIP
i did it to the 3 transmission moounts and do feel a slight increase in vibration, but noone else does, its really almost nothing. and no more wheel hop and no rubber banded launches, but be careful letting off the gas over 3000rpm cos the nose dives quickly with no flex or time for error. its a feeling i really like, seems like theres much more control over the throttle loads overall.
also windo-weld is a BIATCH to get off your hands, takes a day or 2 to wear off. just overfill the mount a little and wrap some saran wrap over the goo smoothly and it will look very smooth and shiny and not have the ripples and bumps on it. just let it cure for a day then take the wrap off and it will dry completely in another day. i dunno about timeframes i just did it one day while my mounts were laying around not on my car as usual.
edit
oh yeah and windo-weld is FREAKING THICK viscosity. my hands hurt after filling all 3 mounts, it takes a lot and comes out soooooo ssslllooowwwwwwwwwww :ermm:
[Edited by beppomarx on Aug 26, 2003 3:36 PM]
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reminiscing of my LC...
Quote:
Originally posted by solo-baric
[body]
Excellence in all we do. hopefully i pissed him off some more and that would be excellent.
[/body]
ok, wel after you window weld the shiznat how hard is it to remove the engine and trans if you need to? becasue i wanna throw a better clutch in the car but I dont wanna window weld anything if it doesnt come back off.
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I know, I know, I'm pullin over
Originally posted by Pussykatt
[body]
ok, wel after you window weld the shiznat how hard is it to remove the engine and trans if you need to? becasue i wanna throw a better clutch in the car but I dont wanna window weld anything if it doesnt come back off.
[/body]
on that note..
#1. you dont need to remove the engine to replace the clutch.
#2 no it isnt hard. just remove the radiator, clutch line, water distribution block, shifter linkages, starter, tranny mounts, and the tranny bolts themselves (theres 5 on yours i believe) after jacking up on the oil pan (use 2x4's dont jack metal on metal), and youre set. gotta pull it out from the top and removing the radiator is only the hoses and 2 bolts and gives you a lot more room.
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reminiscing of my LC...
Quote:
Originally posted by solo-baric
[body]
Excellence in all we do. hopefully i pissed him off some more and that would be excellent.
[/body]
hmm sounds cool.. Love learning new things.. So what exacly are the benefits? I understand that it helps on wheel hop but exacly how? just not allowing for your engine to move.. Isnt it supposed to move for reasons.. ???
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17x 7.5s On the way..
Engine work.. I.E CAI, Exhaust.. New catty.. my makes a wierd tinging noise when i accelerate.. (wierd)
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