Dam its crazy how time flies bye but here we are, 2011 and this walk through is in bad shape with missing pics. So since I've been hanging out here as of late I will get this corrected and updated. This was originally a swap for just LC's but there is no reason you cant use this on a LC2 so that's been added to the title. If your using an automatic transmission your on your own but this guide should still help. Please post results so I can update this, I want to make it as universal as possible.
For us Cali guys and other places with Cali like smog laws this guide can get you all the way legal after you test it at a REF station. Check your local laws but in Cali the donor engine must be the same year or newer and from the same Make, in other words no Mazda motor in your Hyundai. All smog equipment must function like the donor car, in this case a 2002 Elantra. The ECM must be from the donor vehicle as well and yes they attempted to inspect my ECM but gave up trying to read the numbers on it due to its difficult location. This doesn't mean that will happen to you. If ya cheat using the 1.6L Accent ECM you might get caught or you might not, your also loosing horsepower using the 1.6L ECM. After passing inspection they perform a normal smog test and if you pass that then your swap is legal. This of course means no CEL can be showing. They will put a new sticker in your door jamb stating the donor info and other things. Now this is a sticker that does give ya some more horsepower hahaha!
The recipient for the swap is an 02 Accent 1.5L manual but this guide should work on all LC/LC2 models. What is going in is a Beta 2 non cvvt and a Beta 2 manual transmission along with the Beta 2 ECM.
SHOPPING LIST: Basically everything I needed to get smog legal, feel free to adjust the list to your needs.
Donor - 02 Elantra 2.0L Manual
Complete Beta 2 Engine from the intake filter box to the exhaust manifold and from the flywheel to the accessories. Some accessories can be substituted, see below.
Complete Manual Transmission with all sensors, slave cylinder, clutch line and clutch, unless your reusing your Alpha trans then I cant help ya there. Again if you have info on this please post it so I can update this guide.
Power steering pump
ECM and maybe the engine harness, depends on how you tackle wiring, guide coming for that.
Upper and Lower radiator hose's, if there good, might want new ones.
Both heater core hose's, same as above.
**These items are for smog purposes, pick up if you need to pass smog**
Canister close valve, including the plastic shield and long metal bracket located by the gas tank fill up area, also make sure to grab the pigtails and 12" of wire.
Fuel tank pressure sensor along with pig tails and 12" of wire. Also grab the various small tubes and fittings around the sensor, located right above the gas tank fuel pump.
Donor - 98 Elantra 1.8L Auto
Passenger (right) side axle
Donor - 01 Accent 1.6L Auto (1.5L cars only)
Driver side axle
Power steering reservoir and bracket.
power steering return line and the other main line going from the ps pump to the rack and pinion.
**Smog purpose** Sounds crazy, but trust me.
Donor - 03 Accent (LC's only?)
White faced gauge cluster. Speedometer must be sensor driven not cable driven. Also grab the pigtails with as much wire as you can get.
Do all LC2's come with electronic speed sensors or are some cable driven? Someone please confirm...
Now here are some things you need to know before you start.
Engine/Transmission mounts and brackets
I am currently using 3 slightly modified stock 1.5L Accent mounts on the
transmission and 1 custom mount on the engine. Now for the 3 brackets on the transmission you need to slot the holes 1/4 of an inch with a dremel and grinding stone. This will allow the engine/trans assembly to move 1/4 of an inch towards the driver (left) side. All transmission mount locations are the same as the 1.5L. The beta transmission is 1/4 of an inch wider on each side were the axle's clip into the differential. So of course by sliding the transmission towards the driver side 1/4" means that the passenger (right) side is back near the proper position but the driver (left) side is now out by 1/2" . The purpose of this is to get some room in between the pulley's and belts, so they can be changed as needed and there is no pounding away on the inner fender to make the beta 2 engine/trans to fit.
Front bracket - slot the holes that the transmission bolts pass through for mounting the bracket.
Rear bracket - same as above bracket.
Driver side bracket - slot the holes that the roll stop bolt passes through.
Passenger - Alpha roll stop and some square stock(will get size up later)
This is why I am sliding the engine/trans assembly over. Do you really want to pull the motor to change the freakin belts. At this position they just barely squeeze through.
Using the above motor mount method and the axle's listed below you will not
get any axle binding from over compression of the axle. I can now take hard right hand turns with no
Passenger- From a 98 Elantra 1.8L automatic, the stock Accent axle fits but was leaking because it doesn't clip in. The Elantra axle is 1/4 of an inch longer then the Accent axle. The transmission spline end was 1/4" longer allowing the axle to slide into the transmission 1/4" more. This allowed it to clip in and loosing the 1/4" length advantage it had on the stock axle.
Driver- From a 01 Accent 1.6L auto. This axle is the exact same size overall as the stock axle. The difference is that the 1.6L is about 3/8" (9mm)longer at the transmission splines. So when you slide it into the transmission you loose 3/8" in axle length.
The spline length difference is seen here, 1.5L manual on the left an 1.6 auto on the right. This also means the longer spline will lock into your beta trans.
The threaded axle nut end is all the same.
With the axles compressed you can see that the 1.6L auto axle on the right is 3/8" (9mm) shorter at the mating surface but equal at the end if the spline.
When inserted into the transmission the length is now based at the mating surface not the end of the spline, now I have a axle that is 3/8" (9mm) shorter.
You can retain a/c by using all of the 1.5 a/c items. To get the 1.5 compressor to fit simply buy some 5/16th flat washers and the bolts that hold the beta compressor to the block, 1.5 bolts are too short. Now you will need 12 washers on the top bolts and 4 washers on the bottom bolts, 32 washers total. You will need a belt the same length as the stock beta belt but one tooth skinnier as the pulleys will be offset just a bit. If you already have the beta compressor the 1.5 lines will simply hook up with some minor bending of one of the lines as they will be rubbing on the intake manifold support bracket, same goes for the 1.5L compressor.
You cant reuse the 1.5L power steering pump, or the reservoir or the lines. 1.6L guys you are fine as your reservoir and lines are what us 1.5L guys need to swap in. The 1.5L pump is located on the engine near the firewall, this wont work on the Beta, its location is up front in the same spot as 1.6L. Now I don't know for sure but i think the 1.6L pump will work on the Beta but I have not proven it. If someone has let me know and I will update this.
You can use the Alpha alternator if you need to and i did for a long time with no issues. It did finally die and I now have a beta 2 alternator.
I have used both Beta an Alpha starters so it will work, in fact I am using the 1.5L starter right now as my Beta starter finally died.
Do not have your battery plugged in at any time you remove or disconnect anything related to the Air Bag System including the gauge cluster assembly or your air bag light will be on after completion.
Section 1: Removal
1- Disconnect the battery and remove the battery tray and all of the intake components up to the throttle body.
2- Drain your engine, transmission, radiator, power steering, clutch fluid and freon.
3- Remove both off your axles,
4- Next disconnect your exhaust
5- Now unhook all of your electrical and pull it out of the way. I flopped it onto my windshield and
used my wipers to hold it out of the way.
6- Disconnect your throttle, speedo and shifter cables.
7- Yank out the radiator and heater core hoses and pull the radiator.
8- Unhook anything else left that will prevent you from pulling out the motor Like the a/c lines at the compressor and power steering lines.
9- Now break out with the engine hoist and hook up your alpha engine. You can pull the engine/trans as one piece. Relieve a little pressure off the mounts and pull the front and rear mounts off first. Remove the other 2 mounts and begin to pull your engine/trans out.
10- As your coming out look for anything else you may have missed that needs disconnected. got it all? Good pull it the rest of the way out.
Section 2A: Removing Alpha harness/ECM and installing modified beta2 harness/ECM
1- You will have to remove your dash, all the way back to your heater core. I am not gunna go into
detail on how to do this cause if you just tore your engine out you shouldn't need much help
on this. Just remember were everything goes and put the
nuts and bolts back were you got them after you pull a part
2- Once your back to the harness you will need to disconnect it from the ECM, 2 body harness connections and any other connections it will have. Then free it up from hehind the gauge cluster area and pull it out of your car going into the engine bay. Disconnect the harnesses remaining connections in the engine bay at the fuse box an any were else as needed.
3- Pull the Alpha ECM with its bracket and swap that bracket onto the Beta 2 ECM. You will only use 2 of
the 4 holes but it will be sturdy. Reinstall into car.
4- This is were a prewired harness will come in very handy, if you have one it will save a ton of time.
If not then get cracking on that new harness and get it in. Also it is a major pain in the *** to try and feed
the harness from the engine bay to the cab when the motor is installed so get it in first.
5- Now that your harness is in there a a few loose ends on the electrical that you can finish only when
the harness is back in the car. Plug in all connections in the cab.
6- reinstall your heater core, crossbar and steering wheel for testing purposes. Do not put the dash
together yet in case you have to trouble shoot.
Section 2B: Modifying Existing Alpha harness
If I were to do it over again i would have just modified my existing 1.5L harness, swapping all the wires at the ECM and then adding anything else needed, like swapping the Maf plug for a beta map plug, using the same wires and anything else that needed changed. I think in the long run its easier then swapping in a beta 2 Harness. I have a link I need to find that discussed this, once i find it i will update it and link it in.