Has anyone heard of an intake manifold spacer or throttle body spacer. I have heard that they can give you a 5 hp gain. It makes sence...it allows the air more time to speed up before entering the throttle body.
The big question is... WHO MAKES THEM? I have a 03 tibby 2.0 and cant find a company that makes them anyware.
An intake manifold spacer/insulator actually gives more power by keeping your intake manifold cooler which will help cool the intake charge.
A throtle body spacer gives more power by increasing the velocity of air and fuel into your engine.
They are two different things but unfortunately I don't know of any applications of either for Hyundais. I will look and see if I can get my hands on one or both for you.
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There is a replacement for displacement. It is on 2 wheels and 600cc.
Well actually IM spacers are nominaly larger than 1/10" in thickness......more like 1/2" and thicker. Good spacers are comprised of Garolite, a material that both resists heat, electrical charge (this material is heavily used in the electronics world), weather, petroleum distilites, chemicals, and other entities.
Reason that IM spacers give power gains are for 2 reasons:
#1 - They keep the IM colder by eliminating the heat transfer from the block to the IM, keeping the inducted air that is entering the combustion chamber colder.
#2 - These spacers also add volume to your plenum, which will help increase torque throughout the powerband. Also the longer runners will help high-end power by straightening the airflow towards the cylinder at a farther distance from the valve, allowing it to gain momentum.
Here is an example pic of an actual Garolite IM spacer.
I had a possible group buy on these specific IM spacers for any Hyundai and at any thickness. Look at the post I had about 2 months ago in the All Hyundai forum. The deal is still avaliable.
Humm... interesting! Something new to add to my Mod list. About how much for these? Let us know.
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Rojas
A Child of the King
Performance Mods:
AEM CAI, SR 4-1 Header, OBX Exhaust, UR Ultra S Pulley, Magnacore Plug Wires, B&M Short shifter, LongWait Front & rear strut bars, Whiteline rear sway bar, HDK front under bar. And some stuff waiting to be installed (1.8L cam, S-AFCII, Engine timer w/ a/f & voltage,BBTB & BIM, Digital EGT, MSD)
These spacers are a good idea, and apparently work very well as long as the intake holes are lined up perfectly with the head and intake trumpets/tract. If there are not up providing a smooth surface all the way along, it will upset the smooth flow of air into the cylinders.
I would imagine they would be of more benefit on cars with a metal plenum chamber rather than the newer models plastic plenum chambers, as metal is a better conductor of heat that plastic is. A metal plenum champer will still however absorb a lot of heat from the engine bay in general too, so the spacer's benefit would be even greater if the plenum chamber was also insulated with some kind of heat wrap if possible (though it would look a bit untidy I imagine).
The added length should certainly help with increased torque at low-medium revs, but will reduce top end power a bit. Tuning inlet tract lengths has always been a compromise, with a longer intake giving better mid range torque, and a shorter tract giving better top end power.
Some manufacturers use a variable length intake trumpet arrangement (I beleive BMW and Porsche are the two main companies), in which the ECU adjusts the length of the trumpets to get the best length to match the engine speed and load. Ford Australia has used a crude system in their 4.0 litre 6 cylinder Falcon, whereby a butterfly valve in each tract would open or close to change the effective length of the intake from around 100mm to 200mm long at around 3,000 rpm.
I am not sure how much effect an extra 10-12 mm on the intake tracts would have on the power and torque curves, but it would be interesting to see some dyno results showing the before and after curves plotted on the same chart for comparision.
To reply to a few questions, these will be machined from the most acurate method, CNC water-jetting, the exclusive choice for the entire Aero-Space industry, so you know that the acuracy and tolerances are there. They also will be completley smooth as glass, as Garolite is a material in the plastic family.
For price, that is still yet to be determined. Normal kits for a 4 cylinder are normaly in the $100.00 range (some more and some less), depending on costs, etc. I talked to Random and others about this, but no one has been willing to help, or they put this idea on the back-burner. Hopefully I belive that I have found a willing individual.
I will keep updates.
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