i am sorry for being so repeatitive with this question, i feel so dumb and have done much harder things then this. I have posted a similar question to this, i was told a don't have to cut the intake pipe to hook up the bypass valve, that it would fit right in front of the maf. I have just tried this and there is like an inch of play and i can not fit it. Is this because i have an auto, im i just a fool, or do i have to cut the pipe. if i have to cut it where would i do so b/c there it looks like i would have to cut where the pretty aem letters are:ermm: thanks for the help yet again. an pics would be money
You either need to cut away a piece of the pipe at the end (remember you are adding a couple inches in there) or you will need to cut a small section out anywhere in the pipe you want. Just keep the bypass valve away from the filter where it doesn't risk getting wet otherwise it is useless.
Basically, the intake is made to fit your car so if you are going to add any material to it you will need to subtract the same amount some place else so it will fit again.
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There is a replacement for displacement. It is on 2 wheels and 600cc.
also how necessary is the valve if im not driving through a pool of water. i understand that the oil on the cone will cause water from splashing and what not to beed off.
To hydrolock your engine, you need to completely soak the filter.
Basically, driving in the rain or normal small puddles will not do it (Unless you modify the intake or body in a way that allows the water to hit it). You would need to drive though a pretty big puddle to hydrolock.
Basically, you would have to do something pretty stupid.
Maybe you better put it it on after all. j/k
Seriously though, if you already have the bypass valve, it would be pretty foolish not to use it.
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There is a replacement for displacement. It is on 2 wheels and 600cc.
Hmmm...well...the way I installed the bypass valve was to take off the rubber ring out of one end of the bypass valve....and shoved the intake into the bypass valve. Technically, you don't need the rubber ring seal, as long as there are no holes for air to escape. Then...use the metal ring fastener to secure it. Regardless of what people may say...that rubber ring seal is not necessary...b/c the ends of the intake have that beveled ring around it...so...you should be set. Anyone who says otherwise really doesn't know what they're talking about. :lol:
-Arctic
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<A HREF="http://www.chariot32.com"><IMG SRC="http://www.chariot32.com/images/tiburon.gif"></A>
...I think it time to blow this scene...get everybody and their stuff together. Ok, 3, 2, 1, let's jam!...
what about the no room in there situation. I really don't want to cut anything on the intake and if im not bringing my car swimming at the beach i don't know if i want to cut it. is there a way to some how squezze it in there. thanks fo the help
I have a automatic tiburon with a 3" intake, and 3" bypass valve. I just took the rubber peice that came with the intake off and installed the bypass valve to the MAF. You have to tighten the h*ll out of the end going to the MAF since it is a half inch smaller. BUT the bypass valves foam piece will rub off a little because it is touching the hood.:ermm:
It worked. I haven't had a problem. I got my intake off e-bay and there is a metal peice almost at the bottom (where the filter is) was suppossed to bolt to some thing but couldnt find where. Intake fits tight so didnt have to bolt down. What i'm getting at is if you run it strait to the MAF dont bolt down or zip tie intake somthing, because when you punch the gas engine will flex. (rock up & down) putting allot of pressure on the bypass valve and MAF maybe causing one to break.
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