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Old 05-26-2003, 04:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default pvc or abs for intake tubing?

im gana make a ghetto intake on my 2000 accent gl.. ill remove the baffle and put a bit of tubing from airbox to front area of car so it doesnt suck in hot air from engine.. now question is do i use pvc or abs?

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Old 05-27-2003, 05:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: pvc or abs for intake tubing?

You need flexible ducting (any material is o.k., but the alloy type sold by auto accessory stores is best)....ideally in 3" diameter. Position with cable-ties.
Cheers, Nick.
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Old 05-27-2003, 10:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: pvc or abs for intake tubing?

please I repeat please DO NOT USE PVC plastic piping. Because when the air flows through it creates static charge on the air. It also releases harmful gases into you incoming air also not good for good combustion.
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: pvc or abs for intake tubing?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoit...=14722&BQ=jcw2
Item #21ZX4219X

Good luck!
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Old 05-28-2003, 02:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: pvc or abs for intake tubing?

In my previous experiences with N/A on my Tiburon, I was somewhat successful in building a few prototype cold air intakes as "proof-of-concept" parts while researching some physics principles I had stumbled onto and wanted to try. The general designs followed a fairly simple pattern:

On the 2.0L Tiburon, I was using a 27-inch long 4-inch diameter section of black ABS plastic. I cut the ABS as to make a very long "snout", so that one end was still 4" in diameter, but the other end was approximately 2.5" in diameter (both internal measurements) and the transition between the two was smooth. I also put a bend in the ABS pipe to facilitate getting it under the hood and pointed down towards the cooler air.

At the 4" end, I fitted a rubber 4-inch to 2-inch plumbing reducer that I cut and modified to fit around the MAF sensor on the 2-inch end. On the other end of the snout, I placed a 6" long, 4" diameter K&N open element barrel filter with a 2.75" outlet (connected of course to the ABS snout).

The design was threefold: Tuned length for theoretical ram charge effect based on air resonance at around 2500-3500 RPM's. (See General Motors' work on this) Funnel/snout design to prohibit flow reversion due to intake valve noise resonance (see TheOldOne's work on this). The conical design with the huge 4" exit port was built to promote a small high pressure cell during quick throttle close-open movements while shifting, and available "air resivoir" during very fast WOT throttle transitions from idle or low load (also see TheOldOne's work on this)

The ABS had very few problems while I was working with it. I used my oven, a heatgun, an air powered cutting wheel and a dremmel to form the plastic to my whim. ABS became soft and flexible at about 250 degrees F, which means you need to direct it away from any severe heat sources underhood... I placed mine in the general vicinity where a normal CAI would go, and had absolutely no issues with it.

I had a few working prototypes built of varying lengths and cone designs; my best one looked something like an elephant trunk, was VERY quiet (dB wise) but very low toned, performed exceptionally well at mid RPM's (3000-5500) and took me three days to build. The only problem was, my brother somehow knocked it loose while borrowing my car -- he returned the car to me with a CEL . Fortunately for me I didn't lose my MAF, but I lost the filter and the snout and my intake temp sensor. Also god-knows how long the car was driven with ZERO filtration in the New Mexico desert.

Good thing I swapped that motor a few thousand miles ago
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