I thinking about putting together a valve setup to bypass the coolant away from the throttle body. This way I wouldn't have to keep reconnecting the lines every winter. I'll see what I can come up with.
Any suggestions?
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Cobalt Blue 2K Tib - 5 spd
Quote:
There are two kinds of ppl in this world, those that say there are two kinds of ppl and those that don't
Say you been on the high way for the past two hours at 65mph in a 10 degree weather. with 20mph wind, making it feel likg -30 out.
now you encoutner some traffic for a few minutes slowing you down till almost 30mph.
And now you go WOT for a few seconds to pick up speed.
yes then technically it could freeze open... when can you do about?
::shrugs:: brakes. lowering gear...pull over, turn off car ,get out and forced TB plate closed.
I plan on going turbo eventually, so the wwarm intake cahrge will keep my TB open.
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Kore Crew #4
Hmmm... maybe I won't bother. I live in NJ so it shouldn't be too bad. I was just a little concerned because because we had a more severe winter than usual this past year.
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Cobalt Blue 2K Tib - 5 spd
Quote:
There are two kinds of ppl in this world, those that say there are two kinds of ppl and those that don't
This is another case of thinking too hard about something. If you're too lazy to go in put two small coolant lines back right ONCE a year, are you really going to remember to get to the valve in summer?
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Never run out of real estate, traction & ideas at the same time.
2007 Tacoma 2wd 4cyl 5spd reg cab
1998 Accent L - #13 FSP SCCA Solo2 in 2005, SOLD
2001 Accent GS - RIP
My car was buried in a snow drift against the apartment, oh, about 6 feet deep. I couldn't see my car! My r-side TB didn't stick and it was buried for a day and a half. I have never had a prob with that one, nor did I have a problem with my stock after I disconnected the TB. Leave it as it is.
I have tried bypassing the throttle body coolant conectors. Didn't notice any differance in performance at all(I live in a VERY warm climate), so I just connected them back up and keep them connected.
At WOT, the incoming air is flowing soo fast through the throttle body and intake manifold that it is not going to effect the incoming air that much. Not worth it IMO.
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old car; 2002 Accent GS 5 speed
custom 3" cold air intake
custom 2" cat back exhaust
Dynomax Super Turbo muffler
10 mpg on the race track
53,105 miles as of 06-29-03
90 hp and 95 ft lbs at the wheels
New car; 2003 Dodge SRT-4
13.6 @ 104 mph, not stock!!
It's not so much the heating of the air in the short TB passage, it is the heat transfer from the TB to the intake manifold. If you do this test, you'll see what I mean.
Start you car and let it come up to proper operating tempature. Just idleing in your driveway is fine, or take it for a short, 2-3 minute drive. Park the car and check the temp of the Intake Manifold plenum. If you're lazy, just rest your hand on it. (ouch)...darn hot, isn't it?
Now...let the engine cool (so you don't burn your self on hot coolant). Then re-route those coolant lines from the TB. Now, repeat the same test. You'll notice the Intake manifold is MUCH cooler now. I would guess at least 25 degree's cooler.
Granted, sitting in bumper to bumper traffic, or extended running/idleing/running times is going to heat up the engine bay, and thusly the intake manifold, but the IM stays cooler longer, when those coolant lines are disconnected.
Yet another reason why a Thermal spacer between the TB and IM would be a good idea, in addition to a thermal spacer between the head and the Intake Manifold.
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Leave it to Random to needlessly complicate things.
But random, doesn't the IM have coolant running through it as well. So wouldn't the heat transfer from the TB to the IM be minimial considering the IM has coolant running through it as well therefore will heat up regardless? Or is it because the lines to the TB are meant for heating and not cooling?
How thick is a thermal spacer any way, I hope it doesnt extend the ports out to where the extra distants the air must flow out weighs or negates the the gains.:ermm:
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