I want to pull some extra juice out of my car by messing with the ecu.
but i dont kno how to go about doing it, either get a whole new ecu or just have the current one reprogrammed.
my car will lightly tuned for as long as i still live under my parents roof, but an upgrade they cant see or hear would be useful.
so i were to re do the ecu in a lightly tuend NA setup, how would i go about doing it? who should i buy from?
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1998 Hyundai Tiburon FX 5 speed
AEM Cold Air Intake w/ air bypass valve
Shark Racing front strut bar
KVR front/rear drilled rotors
EBC Greenstuff front brake pads
KVR semi metallic carbon fiber rear brake pads
Nology Hot Wires plug wires
Denso Iridium spark plugs
B&M Short shifter
Ignited push start ignition
You will only need to remap your OEM ECU if you have intention to modify your car. Depending on the type and degree of modification, there are 3 option of reaching your objective.
1. Chip replacement.
This sort of modification is for mildly or zero modification whereby the fuel and ignition timing maps are worked out by the manufacturer. Most of these chip are not programmable and maybe inaccurate as this is done on a guessing basis. There are however one in the market that is programmable but you need to haul your vehicle back to the dealer.
2. Piggyback ECU
This sort of modification is for moderate modification (NA, FI, N2O) whereby the fuel and ignition timing maps are tuned in accordance to your car on a dyno. This is not a full ECU replacement but what is does is by intercepting the original signal from the needed senors, interpolates them and sends an altered signal to the ECU. There are several hardware available in the market so you need to understand your needs and which is best suited for you.
3. Full ECU Replacement
This is the ultimate modification as far as ECU goes. This is for heavy modification and running on high boosted car. This is also by far the most expensive and if you are not a hardcore modifier, this could be finance not well invested.
For minor fuel tuning, get an S-AFC2. Here's the best price I've seen:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33597&item=24 33176405
If his auction ends, just click on "view seller's other items". He always has one of these listed. I'm buying mine from him.
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Aaron Britt
'06 350Z (Farking lemon)
'06 Elantra GLS hatch
'87 Nissan Hardbody - The "Mud Mobile" (448,000 miles and still counting)
'02 Derbi GP1 scooter
An S-AFC will ONLY alter fuel delivery and NOT timing. They do work well but, honestly you won't get any more than 10 WHP, if that. If you were to add an MSD DIS-2 to alter your timing, you would essentially be doing what a reprogrammed ECU would be doing, but at twice the cost. An S-AFC will run you $400 new and the same for an DIS-2. Contact powerchipgroup.com as they are the only company offering a complete reprogrammed ECU (designed to run on 93 octane) for about $400 with a warranty. However, I don't know how reputable they are. You'll definitely want to tell them the mods you've made (engine wise) so they can program it accordingly should you choose to go with them.
Yes, but I can tune my own set-up based on weather and future mods. Weather is a big factor here in Vegas..... 120 in Summer, 40 in winter. An ECU is a one-shot deal. Need something changed; pull it out and send it back again.
S-AFC2 = $285
DIS-2 = $320 (or $420, if you get the laptop programmable 6212)
That's about $600, not $800.
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Aaron Britt
'06 350Z (Farking lemon)
'06 Elantra GLS hatch
'87 Nissan Hardbody - The "Mud Mobile" (448,000 miles and still counting)
'02 Derbi GP1 scooter
ok i contacted the chipgroup people and i gave them info to tune a chip for me on my 2.0 with an intake and they said i need to be on either 91 or 93 octane, i went for the 91. they said an email is on its way with more info. the 91 octane chip is like 13 crank hp and like 11 crank torque. the 93 is only slightly better and isnt worth the gas price.
i opted for more performance in the low range rpm, for the hop off the line. and also asked for them to smooth out the powerband, if none of this makes sense to anyone, please see the site, u can pick everything.
or, should i get the S-AFC II from apexi? same price give or take, which is better gains?
if its the same gains id rather have the chip not the controller bc it comes tuned already for my specific car.
opinions?
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1998 Hyundai Tiburon FX 5 speed
AEM Cold Air Intake w/ air bypass valve
Shark Racing front strut bar
KVR front/rear drilled rotors
EBC Greenstuff front brake pads
KVR semi metallic carbon fiber rear brake pads
Nology Hot Wires plug wires
Denso Iridium spark plugs
B&M Short shifter
Ignited push start ignition
Well, I8acobra has a point but it all boils down to personal preference. Do you want more control? Then go with an safc AND msd. I hope you have some experience in tuning though because it will take some time to get it right, especially if you don't have access to a dyno. Plus, you have find a place to put the safc and msd (not hard, but just another step). With the chip, you basically just plug and play and less hassle. If you do go with the chip, please post your results, I'd be interested to see how it turns out.
IMHO, I think you would be better off doing some more 'Non-Visible' mods, such as Cams, plugs and wires.... There is a lot you can do for the sort of money you are looking at spending.
I know its not the answer you were looking for, but I would rather you spent your cash wizely.....
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Black '01 2.0 SE Coupe
Pipercross CAI and CF rears...
Who needs more????
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I go with i8acobra on this one.....the purpose of choosing option 2 is the ability to retune the vehicle at anytime needed at the dyno, and not have the ECU plugged in and out....as it is with any modifier, is to keep tuning options open.
richard734. ECU tuning should come first before the other parts especially camshaft, P&P head, BIM, BBTB, and high comp piston.
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