Which cam to use??

[RedTib73]

Can someone help me find info on which cam to use for maximum horsepower gains? I'm running the 2.0L Beta with all the standard bolt-ons. I've read some of the past posts, but they left me confused.

Does anyone have documentation or evidence, anywhere, that might explain the advantage of increasing your duration and lift (...what the 2.OL Elantra cam claims to do)?? I would like to hear from anyone who has tried this mod.....<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>

Shark claims the 1.8L cam adds 4 degrees of duration and 0.4mm more lift, while the GT cam has 8 degrees of duration and 0.8mm of lift. What does this translate to in terms of performance? Any specs on other cams, such as the CatCams? <img src=/images/forums/snitz/uhh.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


<hr noshade width=60% size=1 align=left>

[RedTib73]

I don't want to reply to my own message but..... I left out some important info:

I have a 2001 Tiburon (duh)
bolt-ons:
MHP CAI
R-Side 4-2-1 headers
HVE tuned exhaust
Magnecor racing wires
Bosch/Platnium +4 plugs
K&N Filtration
<img src=/images/forums/snitz/finger.gif width=33 height=15 border=0>

Future mods - cams, throttle body (Besta?), HVE ECU upgrade, Two Pratt and Whitney J-58 axial-flow turbojets with afterburners, each producing 32,500 pounds of thrust. <img src=/images/forums/snitz/evil.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>

[Suprgtrs_man]

Well if you want to stay with a stock cam then the 2001 ELANTRA cam is the most aggressive cam. If you want to go aftermarket then either get the HVE, Cat Cams or HKS cams.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left><img src="http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/images/forums/icons/01Elantra.gif"img>MY 2001 Elantra GLS is powered by <img src="http://home.mn.rr.com/ryears/beta.jpg"img> Jeff T.

[Random]

As of yet...no one has dyno'd a stock engine, then done the 1.8L elantra cam, then dyno'd again, then done the 2.0L XD elantra cam, then dyno'd again. So in other words...there are no real dyno numbers for us to use. We cant say 10 hp and 20 HP for the 2 cams.

If you look at similar engines, that have had cam comparisons done, you can make an educated guess, but it is only a guess. Also, your level of mods will affect your gains.

Sport Compact Car did a cam comparison on the 2.0L nissan engine. It's by no means identical to ours, but it is roughly similar.

The "mildest" cam they tested was a 256 degree cam, with an additional .8mm of lift. This would be closest to the XD 2.0L cam. On the dyno, it showed again 5.6 HP and 4.7 torque, with no real losses anywhere in the RPM range. They also had some fairly radical (274 degree) cams, that lost up to 6 ft lbs of torque down low, but gained up to 16 HP up on the top end. Most of the more "radical" cams required an ECU retuning to show big gains, and to remove or less torque/hp losses in the lower RPM range.

What's I'm trying to say here, is that the XD 2.0L cam is fairly mild as far as cams go. 5 HP at the wheels is a fairly educated guess, but it is still just a guess.

HVE states that their cams will show a 10% gain (12-13 Hp for those of you bad at math) on the dyno. When you consider the cost difference, you are paying for that extra 7-8 HP. If you're trying to go fast...don't go cheap.

With the modifications that you have, adding the XD intake cam might show more than 5 HP, but also, I'd be willing to bed the HVE cams would show more than 10% with your mods.

RPW and HVE also has more "radical" cams available, and David from RPW can quote you the costs, cam figures and expected gains, but don't expect them to be under $300 for the set. (intake and exhaust)

Also, since ECU tuning is not really an option for us Hyundai owers, an S-AFC and ITC might be a wise investment as well. With your list of mods, plus some head work, and the 1.8L elantra cam, Red was able to squeeze out an extra 8 HP at the wheels with just the dyno tuning of an S-AFC.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>quote from 4DoorGL: <b><i>"Told you. Random is cool as hell in person, even if he is a dick on the net <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> (j/k)" </b></i>

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.

Edited by - random on 03/12/2002 03:27:56 AM

[Mechanix034]

<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>Better think of how you'll be driving the car and where man...because selecting the wrong cam profile can mean compromising drivability, especially in a street-driving-grocery-getting kind of way...

If it's for a street driven application then you shouldn't go too wild with the agressive profiles, because they have a tendency to function in a VERY narrow Rpm range, especially in our Hyundai engines which dont have Variable Valve Timing or VTEC or Variocam or whatever, and simply put this would make your car undrivable under street conditions and totally nightmarish in a traffic jam.

If you're going for a race-only application, then I would hope you have a strong right leg, because you'll be heel-and-toeing and leftbraking like a madman to keep the revs in the optimum powerband in the bendy stuff, and trust me, it's NO fun.

A good way to start is to ask the manufacturer about what Rpm ranges a specific cam is desgined to function in, and what it's application is...and make the final decision for yourself while being TOTALLY honest with yourself at that time.

Trust me, between an illegally remodelled and race-prepped N14 Pulsar and a stock Accent I'd rather go home in the Accent because I dont have to worry about keeping the revs at 6000rpms just to move off after the lights without too much burbling.



<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>The racing car is not a technical exercise. it is not an art object. The racing car is simply a tool for the racing driver...~Carrol Smith