Noisy Lifters - Is This A Solution?

[Acid7711]

This is a quote that I found off of http://www.vfaq.net/mods/10faq.html. It is a site all about dsm stuff.

Is this safe? Has anyone else ever done this?

"The "Noisy lifter" solution

From the day I purchased it to the day I performed the following miracle (I use this word because you will too) my Talon made horrible lifter noises. Anyways here's a "low-buck" solution that's guaranteed to put a smile on your face. BTW, I have 16 new lifters for sale that I prematurely bought before trying one of the oldest tricks in the book (and now, one of my favorites).
Materials You Will Need:

1-quart Dexron II Transmission Fluid
1-quart of cold water
2-feet of Vacuum tubing
4-New NGK BP7ES spark plugs (BR7ES-11 non-turbo)
1-quart of any brand "motor flush"
5-quarts of Fresh Mobil-1 15W-50 Oil
1-New Oil Filter
First, make sure your Diamond Star is up to normal operating temperature. Find the direct-port vacuum line at the throttle body and on the driver's side of the manifold (where the VPC pressure sensor is usually plumbed into).
Have a friend bring the engine speed of the car up to 3500 rpm. Run your vacuum line to the direct-port source at the throttle body. Submerse the other end in the bottle of transmission fluid. Keeping the tube slightly pinched, regulate the flow of fluid into the engine as your friend works the throttle to keep engine speed between 3500 and 4500 rpm. Large puffs, no, LARGE CLOUDS of smoke will begin to emit from the tailpipe and possibly under the hood (if you have any exhaust leaks).
After half of the bottle is used, repeat with the water using half of that bottle. After you locate the vacuum port on the driver's side of the manifold, repeat the process. First use the tranny fluid, then follow with the water.
When you finish this process which will remove the carbon buildup within the cylinder, follow the manufacturers directions for the engine oil "motor flush." Follow with an oil change and replace the plugs (the chamber cleaning process can foul the plugs).
That's it, you're done.
Now, go out and drive the car and feel the power. If your valves were gummed up before, it'll feel like these an extra 20 ponies under the hood as throttle response will be tremendous.
Since my car had so many miles on it, I repeated this process at the next oil change. For the heck of it, I did a cylinder leakdown test. The results were amazing...two percent leakdown in each cylinder. Typically, cars with this kind of mileage would be happy to see 6 to 12 percent.
Credited to: Michael Ferrara turbogod@primenet.com

(NOTE: DO NOT attempt this if you don't know what you are doing! You can suck too much fluid in too fast, and "hydrolock" your engine (fluid is incompressible - too much, and it is like trying to crush a rock), which can destroy valves, rings, pistons, or the head or block. The fix above does NOTHING to clean the lifters, it is cleaning carbon off of the valves, which can cause a ticking sound similar to that of noisy lifters. Use fuel system cleaners instead -TS)."

[VALKYRIE YB70]

And you posted this in the Newbies Section.......very responsible!!!.
Anyone attempting to do this deserves all the trouble they will inevitably get.
The normal recommendation is to use flushing oil, change the filter & refill with pure synthetic 5W/40 oil.
Nick.

[Acid7711]

Sorry I didn't feel like getting slapped in the face by someone with more than a few posts like it usually happense. Evidently, that was unavoidable though. I thought it was a "newbieish" question. And usually anyone without over 1000 posts on this board is considered stupid and newbieish by a lot of people there you go, but anyways yeah. o/t as all ****

[Edited by Acid7711 on Jul 14, 2003 9:05 AM]

[Shadohh]

THIS IS HOW YOU FIX NOISEY LIFTERS IN A BETA ENGINE.

Well....Its 85% effective, and the cheapest solution to try.

First of all Hyundai HLAs (Lifters) do not like the fully synthetic mobil 1. Its literally to thin. it play with oil pressure and the way the HLA work.

This has work for the 10 or so people who have complained about noisy lifters. And they all think the enigne runs better to. which is probbaly cuase the HLA are now working properly.

Goto your local automotive store.

Get a can of GUNK 5 min engine oil flush (no do not substitute as we know this one cleans very well)

Now get a SEMI SYNTHETIC.

I recommend 5w-30 Castrol semi-blend

I use to run regular motor oil, always had a tick, did the engine oil flush , switched to semi synthetic. Never had a tick ever again. NOT EVEN ON COLD START.

Now follow directions to use the GUNK.

Put it in run , it change oil (as per instruction)

use the semi synthetic.

you should not hear a tick ever again.

may have to apply twice. for complete tick removal.

but rare.

[VALKYRIE YB70]

Shaddoh!.....Nobody mentioned Mobil 1 , @ 0W/40 it`s far too thin!......the oil I recommended was 5W/40 fully synthetic, which is thicker than & far superior to your blended solution.
Other than that, we appear to be in complete agreement!.
Cheers,
Nick.:

[Tugger5000]

I'm more inclined to think that Shaddoh's suggestion is a better route to go. I ran full synthetic from 8-105K miles with lifter tap problems on startup since 60K. I ran Amsoil, so I should have been able to go up to 25K miles on the same oil, but found I had to replace it at 10K because of lifter tap (and before anyone starts the debate about extended drain intervals, we already had it: http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=375 - I ran the stuff in my Audi for 25K mile drain interval with NO problems whatsoever... The engine was still strong with almost 300K miles on it when I got rid of it).

However, I've done 2 oil changes so far per Shaddoh's recommendations (he mentioned that it could take up to 4 or 5 times) and my lifter tap problem is occuring less frequently with each oil change.


[Edited by Tugger5000 on Jul 15, 2003 6:05 AM]

[WytchDctr]

shadohhs idea worked for me.. and mine were bad.. Actually mine blew one of the HLAs up :surprised:

[Shadohh]

Originally posted by VALKYRIE YB70
[body]
Shaddoh!.....Nobody mentioned Mobil 1 , @ 0W/40 it`s far too thin!......the oil I recommended was 5W/40 fully synthetic, which is thicker than & far superior to your blended solution.
Other than that, we appear to be in complete agreement!.
Cheers,
Nick.:
[/body]

Yes...

technically if you ran with a thicker synthetic oil, you can equally out.

But that does not go into account with that that the synthetic is most made up of smaller molecules which are known to leak from the HLA bleeder ball design.

Infact my counsin just started his ASE Cert few weeks ago. And he mention to me on Day 3 they went into why not to use fully synthetic in HLA engine.

I been trying to get a copy of the video they played so I can mpeg and post it up for you people.


But it all comes down to your car and how you feel comfterable.


When I have the funds and time I wanna look into testing the higher weight synthetic oils.

I know of someone running a 10w/50 fully synthetic without problem.

So it may we be just need to a run a higher weight of that synthetic.


now as for fully synthetic being far superior?

I dont know about that.

since the castrol semi blend, just means its a synthetic made from modified petroleum moleucles and a synthetic is a total man made molecule.

Also...

I think a fresh pour of oil
being regular or semi or fully synthetic, all lubricate about the same.

Its just how much longer they last. and how they stand up to break down.

while I am sure the fresh dino oil lubricates just as well as the fully synthetic is probably only holds that ability for 500 miles? :P (exmaple)

and perhaps the semi goes out to 3k miles

and the fully synthetic perhaps 4k


[Edited by Shadohh on Jul 15, 2003 3:16 PM]

[VALKYRIE YB70]

I`m running Mobil 1 fully synthetic 15W/50 Racing Formula, due to the fact that the oil temperature (measured in the sump) rose as high as 150C when I increased the boost to 12 psi. from the stock 7......mineral oil starts to break down at 140C.
Although I have now fitted an oil-cooler, I will continue to use this oil because the oil-consumption has fallen almost to nothing, compared with my usual 5W/40 & the hydraulic lifters are the quietest they`ve been in 84,000 miles!.
Cheers,
Nick.

[Shadohh]

Originally posted by VALKYRIE YB70
[body]
I`m running Mobil 1 fully synthetic 15W/50 Racing Formula, due to the fact that the oil temperature (measured in the sump) rose as high as 150C when I increased the boost to 12 psi. from the stock 7......mineral oil starts to break down at 140C.
Although I have now fitted an oil-cooler, I will continue to use this oil because the oil-consumption has fallen almost to nothing, compared with my usual 5W/40 & the hydraulic lifters are the quietest they`ve been in 84,000 miles!.
Cheers,
Nick.
[/body]

well, we are also talking about two different mototrs.

Tell me, what is the stock oil


See, here is the thign 140c is about 287F

castrol semi synthetic has a flash point of 407F

mobil flash point is 440F

so they are both far above the required.

But the semi synthetic has a high Viscosity Index then mobil 1.

which means it is more resistent to breaking down.

I think the problem with synthetic is that most ppl wanan use 5w-30synthetic.

but fully synthetic tends to be thinner then regular oil.

so it lieks 3w-25w.

so if using a synthetic you goto a 10w-40 they may not tick.

hence why yours did not tick at 50w

I would hate to use 50w just not the right number at all. for my engine, not sure what they recoomend for yours.

also I was on some DSM forums.

most guys its a 50/50 wether mobil 1 make their HLA ticks on the 4g63t.

BUT amsoil and purple royal is a 100% no tick. but for the price, they better not.


also the new US Spec Evo 8 comes with a mobil as a factory fill, but they also say the mobil 1 lifters have bigger valves in the hla to compensate for that.

so some guys were talking about upgrading to those.


who knows..

I dont trust mobil 1 thou

their gas sucks

their gear oil eats our trannies.

so I am thinking their motor oil is not very good either.


[Edited by Shadohh on Jul 16, 2003 4:20 PM]