I would like a definitive answer to the "returnless fuel system" myth.
Half the people on here say "returnless fuel system can't use a dry kit" then they offer to sell their wet kit to the person. I suspect this theory was invented to sell more wet kits. If nearly all modern cars come with returnless fuel systems there should be NO market for dry kits anymore (a quick search confirmed that Dodge, Ford, Nissan, Hyundai, and Honda use returnless systems).
What is it specifically that makes a returnless fuel system worse for dry kits?
Please don't give some vague answer like "There isn't enough fuel" WHY isn't there enough fuel?
Other unconvincing answers might include "because we say so" or "you are a dumb dumb"
Ok, Ill answer the question you should have asked before buying your kit.
Dry Kits add fuel by:
A) Restricting the fuel return line to increase pressure in the rail, in turn adding fuel
B) Communicating with the ECM to tell it when to increase the flow of fuel, nothing like that is made for a Hyundai.
You have no way to bump fuel pressure or open the injectors for a longer duration when you buy a generic dry kit. THAT’S the problem, not the returnless system itself. You could use a dry kit on the beta1, it has a return line.
If you want to run that kit on your car you need to find, like I said in your first thread/my first post, some sort of engine management that:
A)Knows when your spraying
B)Can increase the fuel w/o the ecm fighting it. ONLY when you press the button
Q: What is the difference between a "wet" nitrous kit and a "dry" nitrous kit?
A: A wet nitrous kit mixes nitrous and enrichment fuel by means of an injector nozzle that is mounted before the throttle body. This mixture is then drawn into the engine through the throttle body and intake manifold. A "dry" nitrous kit injects only nitrous with it’s injector while at the same time, increasing the engine’s fuel rail pressure to feed enrichment fuel through the engine’s own injectors. Q: What is better, a "wet" or "dry" kit?
A: It all depends on the application. A "wet" kit is ideal for both normally aspirated applications as well as forced induction applications. It can require a little bit more installation time than a "dry" kit, but is easier to tune if greater than stock HP settings are to be experimented with.A "dry" kit is excellent for normally aspirated combinations that have a return style fuel system. They are very easy to install and are a great "first time" nitrous system. It is not recommended that "dry" systems be used on forced induction engines.
Also I said get a dry, but I don’t have a wet kit to sale you…. Who tried to sale you a wet kit?
__________________
"The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." G.K. Chesterton
"Hope and pray that you never need me, but rest assured that I will not let you down" 3 Doors Down - Citizen Soldier
I read 10 or 20 previous threads before posting, and it was quite frequent that people were trying to pawn off their wet kits. And I don't feel cheated for buying a dry kit, a dry kit seems more ideal to me because it is easier.
Why is the engine suddenly going to start leaning the fuel is there is more oxygen in the chamber? Or is the issue that no matter what happens there will always been too little fuel in the system?
well I just posted this huge explanation going through the inner workings of both wet and dry systems and then my computer screwed up.
Let me try to do this again.
When you spray N2O into your engine the the heat atomizes the Nitrogen and converts it to oxygen. So in essence you are adding a ton of really cold oxygen into your piston chambers.
The dry system doesn't add fuel directly like the wet system does. You need to get a fuel management system if your hell bent on running that dry system.
I run a wet system personally. I wont sell you mine though. You should go get your own.
__________________ 2004 ACCENT GT Mods: EvoFusion 4-2-1 Headers straight back to an OBX Muffler, Custom Ram air, B&M Short Shift, Ngk Iridiums and Nology Wires, MSD Ignition, SR Front Strut Bar, SR BBTB, Yellow Top, Ground Wire Kit, Custom white headlights, black tailights wiht silver flake, black side running lights(now blinkers), Bastard Nitrous Kit, ARC 1, Borla PRO XS. 2002 Jaguar S-Type 4.0, Just got a new baby.
yes dry nitrous wil lean a motor out dramatically. Your best bet is to go with a direct port or a single fogger nozzle wet kit. Forget about dry it is not worth it. You will burn valves guranteed.
but this topic never hurts to bring back up from time to time. People still think its a good idea to run a simple dry kit on a returnless system.
Returnless or not its still plain stupid to run a dry system. And you wont 'burn valves' by running a dry system, you'll just lean the engine out and detonate then kaboom.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
I would like a definitive answer to the "returnless fuel system" myth.
Linear Mode
