hello i am new to the forum and my grammar is not tits sorry in advance
after countless hours of the search button ive got some definitive questions for all the beta 1 gurus that id like to know.
drive an 01 tibby and am staying n/a building n/a and i am trying to find out such info on
- compressed quench of oem,aftermarket head gasket (with brand) & head shims, solo use of head shim is it posible will it seal to the head not conerned about the block side these are in the .27 static quench range
( like using felpro 1094 on sbc heads) <sbc quote kinda off topic sorry
-the cc's of the cumbustion chamber on a 1.8/2.0 beta 1 head
- degrees of cams afected after milling the head .20-.30-.40 range
-are the solid lifters from the beta 2's useable in beta 1 motors how much spec diference is there
- heard somewhere that a early 2.4 sonata tb is a slightly larger bore tb it will bolt to the motor but what is the tbp size (easyer to ask then go to a wreckeryard sorry)
- are there prodcuts like phantom grip lsd available or just weld the dif and call it a day
i will be using a 1.8 cam because the beta 2 gt cams esigned for the beta 2 head ad the valve are at a diferet angle with diferent ramp rate design thats why they have premature failure and the early beta 1 1.8 cams are reliable and designed for the beta 1 heads
will not be using 1.8 pistons its an easy swap takes a couple hours but the tuning involved to make them work.not many kids can afford to spend 500$ on a smt-6/ fi-c and then pay a dyno aditional money for minimal gains
same with 1.8 ecu it may offer an increase in performance because its tuned for 1.8 injectors wich are 65cc smaller than 2.0 injectors so it dumps in more fuel causeing your o2 to try and compensate for the condition but you will not produce enough airflow for it to work properly so all your gonna do is carbon the motor up insanly bad from running overly rich wich is just as badd as running lean
same with removing screens on the maf the screens allow a steady even strem of sir to be meassured by the sensor when you remove the screen it allows a more abrupt un even flow of air tricking the sinsor into thinking there is more air coming in therefor it sees it as lean condition so it increases the timing it takes your 02 to reconize this and it corrects it by adding fuel to compensate tricking a maf signal is not the same as tricking a injector signal
buying clutches brand like luk,beck arnley, fenco/dynapac, auto 7 are packaged with the exact same valeo clutch kit as a standard valeo clutch kit so dont pay more when you can just order a valeo clutch when ordering a exedy clutch if the disk and pressure plate do not have a daikin stamp on them they are not true exedy parts they are chinese knock offs
reason for staying n/a is i own a built nova w/t a 350 muncie 4 speed
im trying to acieve a 150whp tibby for $500 when its complete ill post what ive done in here
200whp for $1000 with nos different tires & a afc
if you say it cant be done then you need to build more engines or hit the search button some more not trying to be ignorante or offend anyone
this is more so for all the post i see what will this do what will that do how fast can i make my car go what will it take
i write this info for the non search buttons kids out there is gonna help them along the way
open to any and all kind of responses
after countless hours of the search button ive got some definitive questions for all the beta 1 gurus that id like to know.
drive an 01 tibby and am staying n/a building n/a and i am trying to find out such info on
- compressed quench of oem,aftermarket head gasket (with brand) & head shims, solo use of head shim is it posible will it seal to the head not conerned about the block side these are in the .27 static quench range
( like using felpro 1094 on sbc heads) <sbc quote kinda off topic sorry
-the cc's of the cumbustion chamber on a 1.8/2.0 beta 1 head
- degrees of cams afected after milling the head .20-.30-.40 range
-are the solid lifters from the beta 2's useable in beta 1 motors how much spec diference is there
- heard somewhere that a early 2.4 sonata tb is a slightly larger bore tb it will bolt to the motor but what is the tbp size (easyer to ask then go to a wreckeryard sorry)
- are there prodcuts like phantom grip lsd available or just weld the dif and call it a day
i will be using a 1.8 cam because the beta 2 gt cams esigned for the beta 2 head ad the valve are at a diferet angle with diferent ramp rate design thats why they have premature failure and the early beta 1 1.8 cams are reliable and designed for the beta 1 heads
will not be using 1.8 pistons its an easy swap takes a couple hours but the tuning involved to make them work.not many kids can afford to spend 500$ on a smt-6/ fi-c and then pay a dyno aditional money for minimal gains
same with 1.8 ecu it may offer an increase in performance because its tuned for 1.8 injectors wich are 65cc smaller than 2.0 injectors so it dumps in more fuel causeing your o2 to try and compensate for the condition but you will not produce enough airflow for it to work properly so all your gonna do is carbon the motor up insanly bad from running overly rich wich is just as badd as running lean
same with removing screens on the maf the screens allow a steady even strem of sir to be meassured by the sensor when you remove the screen it allows a more abrupt un even flow of air tricking the sinsor into thinking there is more air coming in therefor it sees it as lean condition so it increases the timing it takes your 02 to reconize this and it corrects it by adding fuel to compensate tricking a maf signal is not the same as tricking a injector signal
buying clutches brand like luk,beck arnley, fenco/dynapac, auto 7 are packaged with the exact same valeo clutch kit as a standard valeo clutch kit so dont pay more when you can just order a valeo clutch when ordering a exedy clutch if the disk and pressure plate do not have a daikin stamp on them they are not true exedy parts they are chinese knock offs
reason for staying n/a is i own a built nova w/t a 350 muncie 4 speed
im trying to acieve a 150whp tibby for $500 when its complete ill post what ive done in here
200whp for $1000 with nos different tires & a afc
if you say it cant be done then you need to build more engines or hit the search button some more not trying to be ignorante or offend anyone
this is more so for all the post i see what will this do what will that do how fast can i make my car go what will it take
i write this info for the non search buttons kids out there is gonna help them along the way
open to any and all kind of responses