Well, evryone I know here in Greece that has a Tib with more than, say, 170 BHP has their rear axle widened. The reasons for this are quite simply traction advantages, mainly because over here we have crapy tarmac almost everywhere (I mean really, REALLY bad quality). A usual way of doing this is by HR's wheel spacers ("cheap", easy - why not?).
I don't really like that sort of thing, and I was thinking more of a complete axle change. So, does the 2003 Tib have a wider rear axle, and if so will it fit in the '97? And if not does anyone have an idea?
Also, exactly how much is a wider rear axle going to mess with my corner steering? And what is your suggested rear axle width for say about 180 BP?
Thanks!
[Edited by Padelis on Nov 11, 2003 12:28 AM]
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well.. the problem I see with widening the axle.. It is a strut based suspension. You are STUCK with those mounting points in the body (unless you go with a tube frame) and the struts are what determine where the rear wheels are in relation to each other, the front wheels, and the body. Unless you can find someway to move the top strut mounts further towards the outside of the car and then lengthen the control rods at the bottom.. you are going to have to run the spacers.. or very wide wheels.
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Arthur Haberland
Moderator: RDTiburon.com
increasing the track width, will increase traction on 100% smooth pavement. However, by ONLY increasing track width, and not altering any other part of suspenion geometry, you are making handling/traction WORSE on rough pavment and/or in corners. Think about it, if the wheels camber 1 degree at the stock setting, and you move the wheels 3" out, that camber is going to be even more pronouced. The suspension pivot point hasn't changed, only the wheel contact patch location, meaning the camber will be WORSE.
Pick up a good suspension book, and learn how to modify what you have to work better. With the right adjustments, and the right supension, your stock width car will be able to out corner a car with a much wider track width and the wrong suspension setup.
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Leave it to Random to needlessly complicate things.
Originally posted by Mad-Machine
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well.. the problem I see with widening the axle.. It is a strut based suspension. You are STUCK with those mounting points in the body
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Yes... You're right.
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All-new AWD system for your BetaII and V6 Tiburon for sale only at www . greatbigscam . com... The rice, oh the rice!!!
Originally posted by Random
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They don't. The rear tires still change camber when the body rolls into a corner or when one of the wheels rises/falls due to a bump.
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ok so if they dont' have a solid back axle how can u make it wider?..or is he talking about making each side wider?....i'm kinda lost about what he's talkign about....
just get wider wheels and tires....and tune the suspension.
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Originally posted by Dweeet
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Ive been in jail before, and all the stories about dropping the soap in the showers are true!!!!
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keep in mind english is not his native tongue, and his goal is actually to increase the rear track, or distance between the 2 rear tires, right there are no drive axles.
what you would have to do is not easy. my terminology is lacking in this department but i will try to explain... what you would have to do at bare minimum is to lengthen the 2 rear control arms that connect the hub to the center of the frame. then the other control arm that runs parallel with the frame would have to be changed or modified in a way to work with the new operating range and still keep the tire at the correct toe angle. then, if the pillow mounts to not rotate within the new shock's operating angle one would (at VERY least) get a plate cnc machined to fit over the top of the pillow mount and between the shock tower to angle the pillow mount outward a few degrees, because your shock would be at a new angle to attach to the extended hub placement. this is assuming that the setup, once bumped upward wouldnt produce an unuseable amount of positive camber which is probably unlikely.
now the only way to do this correctly would be to somehow gut the entire rear end and add a custom upper A-arm, extend the framerail upward somehow to attach the a-arm. then on the hub where the shock mounts either bolt or weld a barcket to attach to the new A-arm. then attach a new shock assembly (coilover would be easiest) and remove the pillow mounts in lieu of a single-pivot bolt style much like you see on a race car setup.
there are probably a number of ways to do this but the easiest would still exceed the cost of even a race coilover system, which would still probably be necessary no matter what. i know this sounds liek a lot of rambling and it probably is just that but this sint something we can tell you through a forum. thsi is something you would have to FULLY understand yourself, and be custom tailored to your car. there is no other way.
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reminiscing of my LC...
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Originally posted by solo-baric
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Excellence in all we do. hopefully i pissed him off some more and that would be excellent.
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