Yea, I dunno. Since they hold the hub together, you'd have to be more discrimating that meerly size on the replacement. Then there is the matter of torquing down a screw the proper amount.
Not saying it can't be done, just more difficult than it might appear.
You are much better of doing a rotor swap.
Buy the rotors and spindals from a Tib with non captive rotors and swap them on. This will also allow you more rotor uprade options and will save you money when you have to replace the rotors.
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There is a replacement for displacement. It is on 2 wheels and 600cc.
i got some new rims on my tib and because of the captive rotors they would not fit, so what I did is put spacers on, but for some reason they made my car shake really bad in the front, so what i did, just take the head off the screws in the front rotors( but only in the front, left the rear spacers on) So this may be stupid but it worked and no problems yet.. i have this setup for the past 4 months. I had some people tell ( they are mechanics) me it wont cause any problems.... what do you think???
zylmichal...you have a 2000 Tib. You DO NOT have captive rotors. There was two phillips head screws in the rotor, correct? Those are only there for the manufacturing process and are not necessary. You can remove them and get rid of the spacers (which are ALWAYS a bad way to go anyway).
Originally posted by AUTOBOT
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You are much better of doing a rotor swap.
Buy the rotors and spindals from a Tib with non captive rotors and swap them on. This will also allow you more rotor uprade options and will save you money when you have to replace the rotors.
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Autobot, you mean to go from captive to non-captive is as easy as getting the non-captive rotors and spindel (whatever that is, hehe n00b) from a non-captive Tib and swapping them?
Could you please fill me in on the details? And would the rear discs from a RD1 or RD2 be a plug-n-play scenario for my 97 tib?
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