Control Arm Bolt/Nut

[allanbegg]

All,
I tried to remove one of the front lower control arms, but ran into a problem. When removing the long bolt at the rear mounting point, I got it a couple of turns out, and then it started turning easily. I thought I had snapped the bolt, but found that the top of the bolt turns as well, at the top of the subframe. It appears that there is a nut inside a housing, welded to the top of the subframe, and this nut is spinning inside the housing. Can anyone confirm? Also, any suggestions as to how to get this bolt re-installed. I can't tighten (or loosen) it, because the nut is spinning, and I can't get to the nut, because it's inside the housing. Please help. Thanks, Allan

[NovaResource]

Telling use what vehicle helps. I'm assuming it's either a Tucson or a Santa Fe based on the forum you posted in but the 2 vehicles are different so I can't answer your question.

So, what year, vehicle, engine?

[allanbegg]

Sorry, it's an '01 Santa Fe. 2.7L, GLS. Allan

[NovaResource]

The manual doesn't say. I'm assuming you mean the bolt at the lower right of this picture:




All it shows is this:

Remove the bolt from the lower arm bush (G).

[Fokyl]

My Tucson GL has a captive nut on the frame that one of the control arm pivot bolts goes thru. It took a 22mm 1/2"drive socket with cheater bar to break the torque.
Here is what I would try;
Soak the heck out of the nut.
If the captive nut is spinning with its housing, try to retain the nut from spinning by wedging something between the nut and the nut housing.
If you can come up with way to keep the nut from spinning, don't forget to try some form of heat, such as a torch to heat the nut.
As a last resort, if the car is still drivable, bring it to a shop that specializes in collision repair and have them break the torque of that nut.
If I read the drawing right, 140 lb ft torque on the nut along with any rust could make for a supremely tight connection.
Fokyl

[NovaResource]

A little late.