The 140 HP is at the Engine. The 116.2 is at the wheels. Drive train losses eat up the rest. Also, not ALL motors make 140 HP. Due to manufacturing variances, some make up to 150 HP, some only make 130 HP. From the dyno tests I've done with my particular engine...it seems to be one of the 130 HP ones<img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>
If you notice...the HP drops after 6000 RPM, the torque drops after 5200 RPM, so extending the redline out to 10,000 rpm wouldn't gain you anything becuase the torque falls faster than RPM rises, which means the HP will keep going down.
Read these two articles
http://www.datsuns.com/torquehp.htm
http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/hpinfo2.htm
Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
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Leave it to Random to needlessly complicate things.
unless of course bigger camshafts were installed and maybe a computer or something, then extending the redline may have an advantage. But for just the stock engine it won't help any
2001 Tiburon
Black with Blacked out windows
Alpine cd player
More mods to come slowly
http://cougart.wtfisup.com
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2001 Tiburon
Black with Blacked out windows
Alpine cd player
More mods to come slowly
I have no idea where I shift my car, after you race enough times you just get a feel for it. I know it feels like my tib would pull alot higher if it wasnt for that damm rev limiter. When I take my stang to the track I have A 51/4" tac and a big shift light and I never even look at them but I keep on blowing off 10sec quarters all the time anyway.
The problem is that the stock hydraulic Lash adjusters in the 1996-2001 Beta engines do not like high RPM. Max you can take them to is maybe 7500 or 8000. Any higher RPM and you will have valve problems.
The 2001 Elantra (and I'm assuming the Tuscani 2.0L beta) has normal "shim under bucket" valve adjustment, so this will stand up to much higher RPM than the stock HLA's will.
Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
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Leave it to Random to needlessly complicate things.
yeah i wouldnt dump the clutch considering you will either bog out or spin youd prolly like keeping it at a moderate rpm like 3 then letting it out smooth but quick its all timing its near impossible to perfect timing but alot of practice goes a long way or just race your casual honda considering most of them are rather easy to beat of course unless they have a considerable amount of work done to them !
i have the same question for my 03 gt v6...what do i launch at and what do i shift at? i just bought it so i know nothing about the car. spanks a bunch.
shift at 6000 rpms is standard technique for the v6. rolling start at forty miles per hour though, downshift into second at 4300 rpms or higher. then slam the gas while releasing the cluch. i usually have to double clutch but i also use a stage 3 clutch.
i have redone all the internals and i usually shift around 7200.
release at whatever rpm causes your tires to chirp without them spinning continuously.
I have no idea where I shift my car, after you race enough times you just get a feel for it. I know it feels like my tib would pull alot higher if it wasnt for that damm rev limiter. When I take my stang to the track I have A 51/4" tac and a big shift light and I never even look at them but I keep on blowing off 10sec quarters all the time anyway.
I RACE TO WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
post a time slip that was not photoshopped or a vid.
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