Heel-and-toe downshift, or how to extract the maximum from your controls

[MechaniX_034]

-Introduction:


Right. We've covered thus far how to make your front-driver go round the bends. However, that article didn't cover how to get through the gears while you're on the brakes and setting up for the turn. So, where that one didn't, this one will.

This article applies from the point where you get on the brake, to the point where you release it before or at the apex, whichever suits you better. As usual, the disclaimers:

• This article assumes that, for purposes of minimizing time, you are accelerating towards the corner at WOT on either the front or rear straight.
• The article will assume that you are wearing the essential safety gear, ie. helmet, suit, gloves, boots and associated fireproof underwear. It will also assume that you have a fire extinguisher in the car and that trackside assistance is availible.
• The article will assume that your brakes are working at 100% efficiency, and that your chassis has been set up properly for motorsports events.

-Basics of equipment:

Generally, the stock pedal locations and throw of the pedals are absolutely horrible for blipping while holding onto the brakes. ie, the brake and accelerator are very far apart and the brake pedal does not go far enough down towards the floorboard for you to push the accelerator down much with the same foot leading to you performing feats of contortionism.

Of course, there are exceptions; cars built for sports or sporting purposes usually have this factor considered in their design process. Unfortunately, we don't fall into that bracket; we drive FWD econoboxes. Thus, we will have to make our own way.

Enter the aftermarket, and bolt-on sports pedal kits:

Now, these are cheaper ones that do the job just fine. What you are looking for isn't carbon fiber or bling; these happen to have the worst grip of all. And that's what you basically need: grip at the pedals. You do not want your feet slipping off at any time while driving. In general aftermarket pedals come in normal aluminium finishes with rubber or PU inserts. What you see above is a method for both increasing all-weather grip. You need to apply self-adhesive skateboard grip to them. Just apply the grip to the pedals and trim off the excess.

The whole point of this is to maximize the feedback you get from each pedal; the more grip you have, the better it is, the more precise your inputs will be.

As a rule, do NOT use the type of pedals that have plastic brackets behind them. Do NOT use any pedal that isn't made of a metal. The ones above are sheet aluminium, and the brackets have been removed so that they can be screwed into the stock pedals.

More tips here:

• If you can't press the accelerator far enough towards the floorboard while applying enough pressure on the brake, you will want to shim the accelerator upwards.
• If you have to distort your ankle unnatrually while trying to reach the accelerator while on the brake with the same foot, the aftermarket pedals will allow you to move the plates closer together.

-What you're looking for in pedals:

Have a look at the accelerator pedal above. See the little obtrusion at the lower-left corner that goes 3/4 of the way up towards the top? That's what you're looking for; a part in the pedal that helps you reach it with the right edge of your right foot.

The brake pedal is the same in this set; the lower right portion is extended towards the accelerator, helping you to reach it without having to excessively turn the lower half of your right leg. The clutch pedal, as you see, is perfectly normal along with the dead-pedal. The only difference is, that I have covered them with grip in order to get as much feedback and traction as possible.

-Now, it is not necessary to have aftermarket pedals. However, if your feet are small like most ladies' or if you have small feet for a guy[OR if the vehile you have spaces the pedals out really, really far] the aftermarket bits will help.



-The process of using three pedals at the same time:

First, a little diagram. Sorry about the shoes people, these have been with me for a few years now and blipping a lot does rip the sides of them:

-Right, here's the explanation:

As you're approaching the turn and braking in, you will have to change down through the gears in order to be in the right gear for the exit. You're using three pedals at the same time, because, it lets you do these things at once:

• Braking
• Changing gears
• Matching revs[smooth changes without jerking]

Since the diagram is quite an explanation in itself, I'll just fill in the gaps here.

You're on the brake first, scrubbing off speed. ONLY when you have taken off enough speed for that gear do you:

1. Put left foot on clutch
2. Turn left foot heel-outwards towards the accelerator while braking in
3. Place hand on shifter

You're now ready to shift into the next lower gear. To do this, you:

1. Keep braking in
2. Push in clutch, press down on the accelerator with the right edge of your right foot while getting into the next lower gear.
3. Release the clutch while the revs are up from the blip.

~Clutch-in and blip for every gear you have to go down, while applying smooth and constant pressure on the brakes.


As before, this will take some practice. You will be looking out for these things:

• How much to jab the acelerator[that's right, you basically give the accelerator a short KICK! in order to get the revs up] in order to get the revs high enough to even out with the engine speed.
• Keep CONSTANT pressure in the brake pedal[after a while, you will be able to modulate brake pressure while blipping]
• Watch that the porcedure is done quickly.

And most importantly:

• Do NOT twist your foot; pivot your leg at the knee, and press down from the knee. Bring your knee inwards, so that it places your calf and foot at an angle that makes it look like you're knock-knee'd. Blip by moving your thigh downwards, while retaining a stabbing motion with your heel[this will being the outer edge of your right foot down much more quickly than trying to blip with just your foot.]
• You do NOT have to have the ball of your foot on the brake and the heel of your foot on the accelerator[no matter how much Initial D you've watched, we're real people with real muscles and skeletons. AND, the previous method is faster to pull off with less discomfort.]
• If you wish, you can also roll your foot sideways if it suits you better[this is however done more often with cars that have very small leg-room and with very close-in pedal boxes, ie. Formula Fords and other open-wheelers]
• Have the correct footwear; slim shoes such as boxing boots, thin-soled X-trainers or anything else with a slim sole that lets you feel the pedal. DO NOT try this with thongs and slippers. After a while, you'll be able to do it natrually. After that time, you should be able to do it even when wearing a pair of CLOGS. JK
  

And now for perhaps the most important bit: speed and smoothness is the key when you'r doing this. The smoother you are the the quicker you are, the later you will be able to brake and the more traction you'll be able to get out of the tyres. You'll also be able to work in an amount of engine braking when you get the hand of it; this is done by blipping higher and letting the revs fall.



Drills, normal roads:

Make a concious note to brake-clutch-blip+change-release wherever you go, and whatever gear you have to go down into. The only exception should be when parking the bloody car. The more you do this, the better you'll get at it. Every stop sign, every traffic light, every turn where you have to go a gear or two lower, practice this.

Drills, closed course:

Do NOT practice this on the track; you will be going a lot faster than on the street and a badly-timed shift with a blip that's too low will take away whatever grip you have left. You will get int trouble, and you will get hurt. On the contrary, a blip too high with a change too early will see you bouncing off of the limiter; you will damage your engine.

Before you hit the track, be damned sure that you've got this down pat at EVERY point in your rev range.

Well, that's about it for this one as well. Remember, it's best to practice this at VERY low speeds and gradually, go faster and faster. Ideally, you should be well within your comfort zone speed-wise when you start doing this. As a safety tip; extend your safety distance from the car in front when you practice during your daily driving; a blip too high will leave you with increased forward motivation when you release the clutch[no matter how smoothly, this will happen] I'd recommend +1 1/2 ~ 2 car lengths of an increase; its better to be safe than sorry. Also, reduce your speed to under 10-15km/h below the safety limit, and increase your braking point when setting up for a corner. About 2-3 cars of an increase to be absolutely safe and to take stress off the driver; the less stress you feel, the more you'll notice about your technique.

But most of all, keep it controlled, keep in on the track, and stay safe out there!

[wilburisthecoolest]

I do it another way, same as you explained it, very well i might add, but i use my heel on the brake and use my toe on the gas. It works perfectly fine for me. I find it more comforatable this way.

But man.. you have to have some stronge ankles to do this for a few laps. Its not as easy as it sounds. lol.

[Red_AGT]

Nice write-up!

[MechaniX_034]

Originally Posted by wilburisthecoolest

I do it another way, same as you explained it, very well i might add, but i use my heel on the brake and use my toe on the gas. It works perfectly fine for me. I find it more comforatable this way.

But man.. you have to have some stronge ankles to do this for a few laps. Its not as easy as it sounds. lol.

Yup, you have to do whatever works and is most comfortable[most iportant] for you. Lots of people use the above, and what you describe is used in old classic cars where the accelerator is in the middle of the footwell. Don't give a damn if someone with tons more experience finds it wierd, it's your style and if it makes you more comfortable then you really shouldn't change it.

As a side note the ball-on-brake and hell-on-gas one is advocated by modern schools because the ball of the foot is more sensitive to pressure than the heel. However, there isnt anything the body can't get used to so in the end it's all up to personal preferance.

But man.. you have to have some stronge ankles to do this for a few laps.

Not really, lots of poeple start out by trying to do this with their ankles only which is where the pain comes in. After a while they end up using their entire leg for the motion, which is pretty painless, quicker and more accurate. Some people have their left foot as their master-foot, and they get used to it as well. In practice you can't really tell the diffeence between a left-master and a right-master, so that's the body/brain adapting to the task. However, I'm not an advocate of forcing the body, so again its more important to be comfortable with you you're doing.