Quote:
Originally posted by 187sks
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Rears are drums...and suck.
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true dat :dead:
ok matt heres some pics. my apologies for bad quality, apparently my phone doesnt like it if there is not a lot of light. in full sunlight theyre pretty good but in the garage nearing dusk it came out not so well but heres what you need.
first off, remove the brake line bracket. it is the 12mm bolt that attaches your brake line to your strut, do this for more clearance so you can move the caliper without worrying about kinking or busting your rubber brake line.
if you crank the wheel and look at the back of your caliper, there are 4 bolts. 2 14mm bolts that protrude out quite a bit, and 2 17mm bolts that are sunk down in there.
that is a picture of your caliper. well, my caliper. and its a tib setup but the accent is exactly the same. the red dots represent where the main 17mm nuts are, the purple ones are the 14mm slider bolts. the dots represent their respective location on the caliper, but they are all in the back. so check out where the dots are and look inward behind the caliper to find the bolt locations. here are 2 pics of the caliper when removed and you can see the holes for the bolts to attach to:
NOTE ***** if you are planning on greasing the sliders which i would reccommend, loosen the 14mm bolts while the caliper is bolted to the hub, it will be much easier this way***** NOTE
the 1st picture is the top bolt, the 2nd is the bottom bolt. once you remove the 2 17mm bolts, the caliper will slide out like so:
that one is terribe quality, i apologize but its an easy step
:
once it is out you can just slide the old pads out. there are 2 metal retainers that hold the pads in place on each end of the pads, they shouldnt move. if they do they only go back in one way so youll figure it out if they pop out, but it takes way more effort to get them in and out than to slide the pads out of their grasp. once the caliper is off the pads will slide inward towards the area that the rotor was previously occupying.
the 1st image is the pad all the way back, the 2nd image is the pad slid almost all the way out, and the silver thingy just above the bad's outside notch is the retainer that should stay in place. the 3rd one just shows the pad after it comes out of the retainer. these pics are of the brand new pads, your old ones should obviously be more worn and thinner.
the 14mm bolts should be in plain view at this point. here is a pic of one of the slider bolts
the bolt is on top and my fingers are on the rubber boot that should be at least partially filled with grease. i pack those full of grease as best i can. if youve already loosned the bolts, just unscrew them and the caliper will come apart into 2 pieces. i have 2 pics of it apart but they are so bad theyre not worth posting, you cant see anything. basically once the bolts are out you pull on the slider and it slides out, and the rubber boot will either come with it or stay attached to the caliper. the boot is just popped on there, theres no retainers or anything. then take brake cleaner and clean out the hole that the slider goes in to as best you can, spray off the slider itself and also the boot.
next get some grease. i use synthetic grease good to something like 1100 degrees, it was the best stuff i found at advance auto. coat the slider itself with a good layer. not paper thin but dont need to glob it on either. try and get somedown in the slider hole of the caliper as well. if you get a good amount in there and make a good airtight seal, when you try and push the slider in, the compressed air behind it will attempt to force the slider back outward. i do not know how effective this is at pushing teh caliper apart in real world conditions, but my theory is that any outward force will help keep you pads from rubbing excessively against the rotors when the brakes are released.
anyways just reattach the boot and put the slider halfway in, pack the boot with some extra grease and pop the boot back on the caliper and slider assembly. dont need toworry about going crazy with grease just make sure there is some in there to keep the rubber from drying out and corrosion from forming etc. if those sliders corrode and freeze its bad news, ive seen it happen many times and its a pain in the ass. most shops will recommend just getting a new caliper altogether, but with some effort it is fixable to a useable degree, it will have some extra slop and be more prone to freezing up again in the future. thats why this extra step of maintinence is worthwhile in my book.
next step is to bolt the 2 halves of the caliper back together. here is a picture of what you should be using:
anti sieze. if you ever remove a bolt ESPECIALLY in an area that will be heat cycled like head bolts, manifold bolts, BRAKE BOLTS, axle nuts, just use it. i use it on everything (and i mean everything, hence why my tube in the pic is just about gone lol), but on those 17mm bolts especially its worth it weight in gold if you ever plan on removing them ever again.
once you have teh caliper reassembled you will need to take a ~6" c-clamp and compress the piston back into place. again, i apologize but those pics didnt come out either. just believe me when i say that this writeup is more than enough for you to complete the job if you know how to use a ratchet. i usually place the fixed end of the c-clamp on the back of the caliper, and the screw part will compress the piston itself. the screw part will sink way down inside the piston, this is fine. compress it all the way back down until the piston is just about flush with the caliper surface.
now you insert your new pads.
the 1st pic shows the brake warning screecher thing. i usually put these on the outside pad so that when they start screeching, i can rip them off easily so they dont score my nice d/s rotors, and thenm i know i need to change my pads within a few weeks before the pad actually runs out. if you look at your pads if theyve been screeching youll see that theres still usually 1/4 3/8" or more actual pad left, the screecher is just there as a warning.
next you take brake cleaner and clean the surface of the pads, because you probably got some hand oil on the pads somewhere along the process. even if you didnt who cares, just make sure theyre clean. spray it on and dab it off with a CLEAN shop rag. i go through quite a few towels doing brakes, at advanced auto they have rolls of what looks like heavy duty paper towels, use those and throw them out at will. keep these brake parts clean as possible and your pad life will reward you. also clean your rotors. looking at them you will think 'man, theyre all shily and clean.' here is a pic after i sprayed the rotor on both sides, wiped the first attempt off, sprayed it again, and this is what a clean rag looks like after the SECOND pass.
now if you compressed the caliper's piston enough the caliper will just slide back into place and you can screw in the 17mm bolts. if it doesnt fit, take off the pads and compress the piston some more and/or check to make sure the pads are fully seated against the slider part of the caliper and the piston.
once you get the 17mm bolts tight recheck the 14mm bolts. i had te 14mm's come out on me last week and its not cool. read my maintinence post 'check your bolts' lol.
another tip while youre working on your sliders and cleaning/greasing them is that you can take some speaker wire or string or something (coat hanger works too) and tie your caliper up to the spring on your strut. this will alleviate the caliper from just dangling down and possibly harming your rubber brake line.
also worth mentioning is a product called 'brake quiet.' i am sure many companies make something like this. it comes in a bottle much like elmers glue. it is applied to the backside (NOT the pad surface) of the brake pads. it comes out just like elmers glue and is designed to go between the inner pad and the piston, and the outer pad and the slider part of the caliper. after use, it hardens to a rubber like consistancy and keeps your pads from rattling against the caliper/piston. if your brakes are squeeking and pads are new i can just about guarantee that if you had used brake quiet they wouldnt be squeeking. this is another thing that is usually not a problem but the bottle of goo is a few bucks and lasts years, keep it in the garage and youll probably never run out unless youre doing brake work for a lot of other people.
dont forget to attach the brake line support to the strut.
also, if youre replacing the rotors as well, you will probably notice that your rotors are frozen to your hubs. very, very common. once you get pissed off and possibly brake the rotor (shown below) in half you will wonder 'how can i keep the rotor from sticking to the hub???'
that is what happens when sledgehammer meets rotor. took about 20 min but the b@stard did come off. anyways teh remedy (or at least helps to remove it without actually braking the damn thing)- coat your hub;s surface with grease. again, with brakes gtting hot get the best highest temp grease you can get. if you glob it on there, it will fly out and onto your brakes so go easy. just a thin layer on the hub surface and a thin layer in the inside of the caliper will do. just a light coating... some will turn their noses at this because theres always a possibility of grease getting on your braking surfaces, but if you goo easy you will be fine.
thats about it. feel free to ask questions
**EDIT**
just found a few more pics, ill just posta link to the gallery. thnaks to mike kemper for the hosting!!!
http://www.mikekemper.com/ul/index.php?mode=viewupload&id=18&PHPSESSID=3537ed85 a2b11c466efcdec8f4a3d0cb
pic 062 shows the location of the upper 17mm bolt, 63 and 64 are crap sorry lol.
pic 065 shows the main part of the caliper with the slider part removed.
066 shows the proper way to rebolt the caliper together, if you look it is in 2 pieces in that pic.
067 again shows the slider bolt locatoin.
068 is that again, just clearer. here you can kinda see that the sliders are notched, make sure the notched part fits in right on the caliper!
069 yeah... so i went crazy with this step for some reason lol. you can see the rubber seal thingy there compressed, that is what gets filled with grease.
070 is a pic of me compressing the piston. you will notice that the screw of the c-clamp extends pretty far up in the piston, and that if you turn the clamp around its much more difficult. when you are compressing the cylinder it is easy and lines up perfectly if you clamp it when the caliper is in 2 pieces. if you still have the slider part attached, the c-clamp will be cocked a little and slightly more difficult, but its still very do-able.
[Edited by beppomarx on Aug 2, 2005 1:48 PM]
How hard is it to change the pads on the LC2?
Linear Mode
