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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys
hoping someone can help me here
I really need to be able to slap shift or shift quickly but i can't.
when i shift at high revs the car loads up on fuel and bogs or bucks
wideband says it's rich rich when shifting like 10.2 but if i slow shift everything seems ok.
I also have an issue in 3rd gear and up after 5500 rpm where the car bucks or hesitates.
In 3rd if i commit to pedal to the floor in third i can hit 120 before it bucks but half or feathered the car wont go past 100 in 3rd which sucks because
it puts me out of boost in 4th and fourth gives up at 140 ish and does the same thing but cant push through like 3rd @ times 5th is the same 170 it bucks and hesitates.

My tuner thinks lack of spark is the problem and wants to do a full msd (or style) ignition system.
have changed plugs and gaps numerous times thinking that might help and does and has for top end but not for shifts.

the car has been dyno tuned and fuel and timing seem fine and the tuner tried variations of tuning the problem out in these ways but had no luck.
There are very few people that can call themselves turbo hyundai masters which he does not claim so I am here looking for help.

the car makes 170whp on 7psi and is hella fast but when i hit hesitation spots or shift fast i'm loosing forward momentum and loose like 5mph in shifts *lol*

aem fic for fuel and timing control
t3/4 50 trim
tial 37mm ex wastegate
hks ssq bov
310 cc injectors running @ 50%
front mount intercooler
log manifold
all pipping designed and flow tested by a mech engineer
aem wide band uego o2.

any comments or ideas welcome

spark? fuel press?
what!!!!!!! I'm F'ing lost

also looking for someone to build a custom tranny for me with longer gears
I want 110 kmh in second gear
300 whp goal by next summer on full motor build.

money is no option so give me ideas on how to solve my issues..

thanks in advance
 

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What motor is this? Is the fic a standalone or piggyback im not familiar with it. I would guess that your blowing off the the atmosphere and its causing a rich condition temporarily. Try to recirculate it and it will probably cure it. If you have a maf try blow through instead of drawthrough (maf on intake side near the IM).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
it's a 1.6 dohc 2005 accent it is a map car so that wont help me
the fic is a hybrid piggyback
it controls injectors (up to 8)
it controls cam position
it controls crank position
it controls o2 sensors
it has built in 2.5 bar map
and see's feed from my wide band
and see's feed from tps

i forgot to mention that i also have a 3" turbo back exhaust with no cats and a magnaflow muffler but i don't throw check lights due to the fic
sometimes if i shift into 3rd at 60 instead of 85 i can get it to hit 120 but then 4th falls flat on its face early.

Also found some good looking clutches up to stage 5 whih eaquals 200+% origional touque at bullyclutch.com

I am running hyundai scoupe plugs 1 stage colder than orig at .028 gap


thanx for any help in advance if anyone has some idea's
 

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If it can read boost it should lean it out once it reds that there is no boost. I had the same problem when I raced a few months ago. I added larger injectors and uped to 7 psi. I took off in first then just BOGGGED in 2nd till 3,500rpm when boost gain enough for it to create power...shifts from 3rd-4th were great. Whats it run when your cruising? Is your low end rich or lean?

What do yo mean when you say flow tested by a mech engineer and what do you mean by "I am running hyundai scoupe plugs 1 stage colder than orig at .028 gap" what stage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
cruising i am at 14.6-15.2 non boost
hammer down I hit 10.2 under full load 11-12 moderate load
1st and 2nd are not too bad 2-3rd bad 3-4 bad
flow tested as in maximum efficiency of air flowing through the pipes without creating turbulence.
I am running spark plugs intended for a hyundai scoupe turbo that are rated 1 level colder than my origional spark plugs. ( i dont know what stage this is what was recomended by the engineer not my specialty i'm a wiring tech)
I have gapped them in different places and found .028 gap seems to work best.
should i be running different spark plugs????? I don't want iridium as i have seen the up close problems they can cause if a chunk breaks up. any help is appreciated.
 

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cruising i am at 14.6-15.2 non boost
hammer down I hit 10.2 under full load 11-12 moderate load
1st and 2nd are not too bad 2-3rd bad 3-4 bad
flow tested as in maximum efficiency of air flowing through the pipes without creating turbulence.
I am running spark plugs intended for a hyundai scoupe turbo that are rated 1 level colder than my origional spark plugs. ( i dont know what stage this is what was recomended by the engineer not my specialty i'm a wiring tech)
I have gapped them in different places and found .028 gap seems to work best.
should i be running different spark plugs????? I don't want iridium as i have seen the up close problems they can cause if a chunk breaks up. any help is appreciated.
Well it is an Accent. I wouldnt be trying to smash the gears in as fast as you can. Those poor synchros are already under a lot of stress. By bad you mean it bogs right? As if its running too rich? What rpm does it do it at in 4rd and 4th?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
it does the same thing 2nd gear and up at the same rpm right around 5500 when i'm making best power and i'm not trying to slap shift all the time but when i race i need the ar to shift fastish or at least omplete so i keep building power not bogging and dropping 5kph every shift and 100 kph does not put 4th in power band and it's hurting my clutch
i think i will try leaning out 5000 rpm and up so that maybe it hits 11.5/11.7 at those rpms instead of 10-11 yes or no?

thanx
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
how much timing should be pulled ?
right now the omputer shows 5 degrees of timing pulled in high rpm region
are my spark plugs ok?

thanx
 

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I would put the timing back to stock and yeah lean out the upper rpms to 12 even...thats really where you want to be...12.2-12.5 and If you have copper plugs your golden there. The car really pulls hard on the stock timing...
 

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Sounds to me like the problem is your running to rich when wide open throttle occurs. You want to tune for an 11.5-12.5, I tune 11.5 for safety but in the 10s is to rich, its overloading wot which is causing your shift problems, I know it happened to me on the dyno and it smoothed out as i leaned out WOT.
 

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Change your plugs back to stock - 1 colder The scoupe plugs are part of your problem. The are designed for 7.5.1 compression What type of plug are you running what brand?

I am currently using the basic autolight they work just fine. Remember to change things in stages that way you don't have to back track quite as much to solve a problem.

Start there and see what heppens!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
soo i'm back at it again cured my shift problem running a lil leaner up top but i have a misfire and multi misfire issue at the same point that i used to have at the crappy shift point. have tried messing with emmissions but accent does not like it. it seams that everytime i hit the misfire zone it throws codes and says random multi misfire from cylinder x and o2 sensor voltage low or not detected (there is a o2 tsb on alldata that requires a ecu reflash)(have not done yet but going too) and everytime i clear the codes
i hear the evap canister in the back click and assume reset.? I have built a 1 way check valve so the purge control solenoid only see's vaccuum and no positive pressure assuming that was causing the problem as i always hear it reset itself when i clear codes
and of course being the sweet korean sl*t she is that did not help my problem i currently have 15 different tunes built for the fic with all different configurations of where each table accepts load from with not much luck but would probably work on any of your cars with no problems accept your blurry vision from crying tears of joy through the gears and I still cant win!!! it has to be emmissions or ignition system or a bit of both
have changed coils wires plugs have gone through different heat ranges different brands
I have moved and or summed sensor grounds thinking it might help to no avail.
Do i seriously have to put the car back to stock and buy a 5.0 mustang or a talon just to have some fun...........?????
please guys any any any ideas I've tried alot and open to even far flung suggestions as long as they don't overly chance grenading my baby........overly I say because no matter how nice i am to her she just wont give me what i want so i'm willing to risk her a lil.........like a 1 night stand without a rubber *LOL*
 

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Whats your spark plug gap? Sounds like your blowing out the spark, gap around .28....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i'm currently gapped at .28 have tried .25 .30 and every gap on the gapper
as i too thought of spark blowout.
have tried different brands of plugs and have gone normal and 1 stage colder.
when i clamped the map sensor it did not like it but it ran perfectly except for the fact it was going lean after the map send a low voltage code and ceased to operate
 

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Give me some more info about your setup so i know which way to try to troubleshoot. How much boost, tuning hardware etc... If you havent tried switching the coil pack i would. Exactly which codes is your computer throwing? Also it sounds like the o2 sensor is bad, doubt it needs a reflash its probably just not throwing a signal. Perhaps try to change it and see if it helps....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
my list is at beginning of post
02 sensor is 100kms old there is a tsb have seen it with my own eyes
I saw someone on here tuned with no o2 and no or dead map sensor
gonna try that because map doesnt like being clammped and when it failed the other day the car ran better but was going pretty lean soo i don't know
 

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Thanks, I wasnt sure if it was still the same setup. The person without the oxygen sensors is me. I pulled mine out of the exhaust pipe but left it plugged in. The car ran very bad when it was unplugged but yours may run different. When the o2 sensor is unplugged sending basically the same signal all the time the ecu was much more easy going as far as tuning for me. My o2 sensor is currently dead and reporting no voltage from the first o2 but i still leave it plugged in. My second o2 is also not in the pipe and sitting under the hood. Its worked VERY well for me, otherwise my tune never held and i always had crazy problems. The map sensor is reporting the correct voltages (as in its definitely good right). Not sure if the map sensor being boosted would be causing a problem (maybe need a check valve?). Try removing the o2 sensor and see what happens, you will have to change the tune around b/c of it though. You motor the 1.5, 1.6 or the 2.0? Any problems with the idle speed actuator, the boost messed mine up bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
how do i put a check valve on a electronic sensor?
my engine is the 1.6 dohc
you have your first o2 in pipe but disconnected and your second o2 connected but just sitting in engine bay????
is your car map or maf based?
 

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If you look closely you can see my o2 sensors sitting in the corners of the firewally/fenders next to the strut housings. They are both plugged in electrically the only o2 sensor i have in the exhaust is my wideband. The car was fine with these sensors plugged in but not unplugged (maybe too many codes its like 4 codes per o2 when their not plugged in b/c of the heaters for them). I was assuming the map sensor has a vacuum line attached to it put perhaps it is direct to the intake manifold? My car is mass air flow based.
 
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