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Discussion Starter #1
ok we all know that you can put the 1.8L crankshaft in the 2.0L block but it is said that you will need longer rod, but if you use the 2.0l rods you will drop to much conpression. so after i finish my engine module (in auto mec shool) and study the beta 1 and 2 motors with the help of the webtec,mitchell,and a buddys in class came up with a theory.

so you take a 2.0L block and put the 1.8L crankshat in, now for the rod, if you go to the hp store you will see they have rod for 1.8L/2.0L beta1/2 . you put thous rod in but now you see you lost to much compression. so you you go back to the hp store or kspec and get the 13:1 high-conpression piston. with this you should have a compression of 11-12.xx . so do you thing this theory will work???
 

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why the hell would you do all that though? i mean, its gonna cost you more money to do it that way. do you just want a 1.8 with normal compression forged pistons and rods?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i need the 1.8L crankshat because i want to spin my beta at 9000 rpm
 

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2.0s piston speeds get waayyyyy to fast after 7500rpms to run on anything close to stock. The 1.8 is much slower at the same rpm loads. I dont remeber the numbers off the top of my head, but I seen the math myself. :ermm:
 

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Originally posted by anthonyfa18
[body]
i need the 1.8L crankshat because i want to spin my beta at 9000 rpm
[/body]
what do you intend on doing to make power at 9000rpm? the Beta powercurve is bound to fall flat on its face even before 7k rpm
 

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mang we have been tellin him why would he want to rev to 9k forever now

i think he saw inital d or somethin to many times
 

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yeah. its not a honda, it doesnt have to rev to 9k to make 120ft/lbs of tq. a 7.5k redline is fine for these motors
 

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People do it with toyota 4age's for track use and they have factory redlines at 7500. 2L touring cars(europe) have race engines(which internally are fairly normal apart from good rods,pistons and studs etc) which regularly do 9000,BUT to get a head cams and quad TB to flow enough etc to still make power at these revs(apart from the $$$$ required!) you will have NO power below 5000 and you simply cant drive it on the street.It will idle at 1500 rpm to not stall! Not to mention the gearbox will need to be close ratio too as you will drop out of the rev band every shift. Unless you're gonna race it,you're out of your mind in a stupid way.If you want 9000,buy a honda....
If you really need stupid power,get a vortech blower,those things have monster top end flow and ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT sound! Whhhhhhhooooooooooop!!!!!
I'd go for a solid 7500 and reasonable cams.

Oh and useless fact....Highest piston speed of ANY car INCLUDING F1 cars of more than 2 years old(now they have 19k rpm & pneumatic valves) is the new BMW M3. Just thought I'd let you know:paranoid:

[Edited by LunchieTey on Dec 21, 2005 1:43 AM]
 

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Exactly! Im with launchie here. Everything depends on what is that u are going to do with your car. If u want a track racing monster then maybe u should consider the 9k RPM mark. But with it comes a lot of surprises, like modifying like every damn aspect of the car. Trans. the vavle train, Forged pistons and conrods, a good(but a damn good head work) to make every thing work and flow smoothly! Or maybe just want a nice handling and accel. car...enough to hit on Hondas and Toyotas on the streets! Just remember that everything depends on what u want and of course that green paper that we all need to survive! ;):
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well i will be racing the car on the weeked and drive it to work, and i know that it will take a lot of money and time, (you i am in auto mec school so i know how thing work)so all i what is some feedback on my theory, can this really work???
 

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Still duno if the crank will work(can't see why it wouldn't-the block is more or less the same-bg ends etc).
However,stop looking for a 9000 RPM monster,like we're trying to tell you! If you wanna race it-cool, but you'll only drive it to work once before realising you CAN'T drive an engine like this on the road(plus the cops WILL DEFECT THE CAR as soon as they hear the 1500rpm idle with angry cams)
It would be a sweet engine(if it were possible but with a long stroke....BANG) but it's simply impractical and unrealistic. You may as well just start with a 1.8 as they have been known to rev harder once modified or a 2.0 as it will still retain some low end with bigger cams(so you can drive the bloody thing) IT WILL annoy the hell out of you dialing in 4000 just to get it rolling.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
^^ find me a 1.8L beta 2 and than we will talk!!
 

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Obviously a beta 1 1.8. And if you ask about the legalities of an older engine being fitted,it's going to be about as legal as a 9000rpm race engine...
 

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Erm hello, jus to clarify:

I can put in the cam 1.8 int oa 2.0 L beta without using any additional parts right? This post is concerned with an additional increase in rpm which is impractical correct?
 
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