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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys...I'm at the track, with I/h/E and the SR short shifter....and i run a 15.73. i didnt think i'd be this fast...so my question is...does anyone think it'll be possible to shave another second off my time? i know cams will help alot, but NO ONE has cams that are PROVEN to show good gains. also...with the cams, an ECU that can raise the redline to around 7100 would be beneficial. PLEASE...any comments are welcome. I want a 14 sec NA tib...turbo is just too much complication for my simple mind.



<hr noshade width=60% size=1 align=left>'01 Tib. 5spd. SR Header, KORE CAI, Custom Cat Back. 17's. Eibach Springs. Tint. MOMO accesories. AutoMeter gauges...and more! TURBO soon to come!
 

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What was your trap speed and 60ft times? It will give us a better idea about where else you can make up some time.

A pair of drag radials will always help at the track. Nittos or BFG drag radials.

A good set of cams will really wake up the car... I mean 248+ degree cams.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>
 

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n2o will always give u a boost..not saying i condone or disporve of this myself (as im not in the situation to have to decide!)

err..but wait, is that not consdered N/A? i always kinda looked at it as a fueling enhancement..well cus turbo/supers are kinda the same thing, forced inducton along the same lines. and u always use them.. where ass n2o is just like ..cheating at N/A <img src=/images/forums/snitz/laugh.gif width=15 height=31 border=0>

oh well, dad always said 'the answer never comes in a bottle, son..'


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>No more rinky-dink mods, getting a job, saving till summer = Beta!
 

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Those are the basic bolt-ons for the beta. Here are a few things that will help.
Crank pulley..you weigh the pros/cons
Biger Throtle body
Bored intake manifold
Better exahust past your Header
Lowering springs, yes it will help
lighten your car/various ways to do this
Of course better tires
lighter wheels
Add these to those listed above<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Stop honking I'm on the Phone!
 

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Red took his tib into the 14 sec arena with these mods

intake
BTB 58mm
BIM
1.8 cam
4-1 headders and 2.5" catback with hi flow cat
Super AFC
short shifter
lighter wheels and drag radials.
learning how/when to launch and shift and lots of practice.

note the last part is most effective.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini
 

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I am going to be buying a cam from Phantom Racing when they give me a price etc... They are making an intake cam for the 2001 and 2002 Elantra, (and 2001 Tib) not on their website yet. When I install it or even find out the price I will let everyone know.

http://www.hyundaituner.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=elantratuner&action=display&num=1013545621&start=15


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>-Mike

2002 Champagne Elantra GLS 5sp
2001 Black Grand Am GT sedan
 

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It isn't easy tuning a NA four cylinder for high power. All the parts listed on this post is nice, but they are not matched and developed for the particular horsepower output or application. By hanging misc. parts from here and there your not going to reach maximum effectivness. A four cylinder has to be developed as one unit.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left><img src="http://d21c.com/marti/auto/smokem.gif"></img>
 

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I am very skeptical when someone tells me they have a 14 sec NA Tiburon. Even the 195 HP Turbo Charged Talons are pulling around 14.9-15.2 in the 1/4. If you want a 14 sec Tiburn, sure go ahead put those mods on, but that will only get you to around 15.5 at BEST. To make up the other .6, your gonna have to
a) Run on about 1 gallon, 4 litres of at LEAST 98 Octane fuel
b) Wieght, get ride of it, no spares, even try taking off the hatch, get desperate, time is everything. You can out it back on later.
c) Exhaust. Dont buy into this catback crap. Street driven ok, but if your serious, cut the stock system off and run a 2.5" straight pipe from your headers, to the back. Loud but very effective. Low end torque will be there because of the 2.5" diameter and you will have significant high end impovement because of the reduced back pressure.
d)Tires-these are rotating mass. Reduce the wieght and improve the traction. Stock tires on a 2k1 Tiburon are P195-55-R15. The 195 is how wide the tire is in mm, the 55 is the Width to height ratio. The R is of course for 15" rim. Try these babys out.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/hoosier/ho_rad.jsp
There are 225/45/R15
This will fit on your rim, and is basically a slick, its is also 3 centimeters wider for imporoved traction. It will also reduce your overall effective gear ratios for improved accelleration, be warned yrou speedo will need adjustment though.
Good luck with the tuning,
-Steve


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2k1 Tiburon SE
5 spd
CAI, KORE CATBACK
58mm TB
 

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Before I get any nasty replys I better say that they will fit "with tweaking" not with ease.
-Steve



<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2k1 Tiburon SE
5 spd
CAI, KORE CATBACK
58mm TB
 

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you can have the comments of you say it can't be done all you want, but red's tiburon is in the 14's with the mods that were already listed

it can be done...




<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2001 Targa Top Tiburon w/Full Roll Cage
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for all the replys guys. CHEUK...my 60' times were all in the 2.4's..i know, not good. and my trap speeds were between 86-87mph. Are there any good cams over in korea, cheuk, that have been proved to show good gains? and to the people who were speaking to me like i am stupid, please dont do that.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>'01 Tib. 5spd. SR Header, KORE CAI, Custom Cat Back. 17's. Eibach Springs. Tint. MOMO accesories. AutoMeter gauges...and more! TURBO soon to come!
 

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Red ran 14.7 sec 1/4 with the setup I listed. and only about 140-150 whp , knowing your car has alot to do with it.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini
 

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Are you telling me you get 140-150 whp with only an intake, header and exhaust. Maybe at the crank you are pushin 150hp but not at the wheels! At the wheels a stock tib is usually around 121whp. your mods listed won't get you 30 wheel hp. Maybe more like 10 to 15 whp at the most. If you have a dyno that is saying you have 150 whp it is wrong. i don't dispute your track times, because that is also dependent on your tires and weight of car.
If your looking for cams, try HVE in Australia, or contact JRP in Ontario. I ordered catcams through my aftermarket supplier, and talked over the phone to a guy named Martin in Quebec; he stated that the tested the cams on a 98 or 99 tiburon , and said the only other mod was an UR crank pulley , no CAI or Exh. The result was 14 hp at the wheels. With a CAI and header and catback, you would probably be looking at around 145whp to 150 whp. Realistic you would probably get around 161- hp at the Crank? Not sure about the effects a Throttle body would have? I do remember a Tiburon Rally Driver saying over a chat that the throttle body was a good add on ,...but only if you had the intake manifold port matched. He explained it like this ," if your mouth is bigger and takes in more food, your thoat would have to be bigger too as to be able to swallow the food",...well something like that!


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Apex springs,BSA rims,Toyo tires,AOS intake, UR Crank Pulley, grape shooter, OBX Fr strut bar, Shark clear corners, APC gauges. KORE wires,.. blah,.. blah, blah, kICKER 12" AND AMP.
Body kit soon, and hopefully Catcams?
 

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In case any one mistakes what I said, wiht the catcams, UR crank pulley, cai, exhaust header, you would be looking at over 160hp at the crank, which would mean almost 150 whp.. This wouold def help to even up the field between SIRs and Tibs, would would just gain more hp and torque , something that Honda's have a hard time gaining. I raced an Sir and got him from the line and were even all the way, funny thing is I only had a K&N filter, pulley, and muffler changed at the time. <img src=/images/forums/snitz/angel.gif width=25 height=20 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Apex springs,BSA rims,Toyo tires,AOS intake, UR Crank Pulley, grape shooter, OBX Fr strut bar, Shark clear corners, APC gauges. KORE wires,.. blah,.. blah, blah, kICKER 12" AND AMP.
Body kit soon, and hopefully Catcams?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i decided im just gonna boost it. thanks anyways guys. i mean, i already have the manifold and boost gauge! <img src=/images/forums/snitz/finger.gif width=33 height=15 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>'01 Tib. 5spd. SR Header, KORE CAI, Custom Cat Back. 17's. Eibach Springs. Tint. MOMO accesories. AutoMeter gauges...and more! TURBO soon to come!
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
In case any one mistakes what I said, wiht the catcams, UR crank pulley, cai, exhaust header, you would be looking at over 160hp at the crank, which would mean almost 150 whp.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
By your reasoning, my car must be an anomaly. All I have is a cone filter and a 2.5" cat-back and I'm laying down 125 at the tires with a 1.8L. My dyno graph is posted in my profile pictures. I'm thinking I should see over 150 at the tires with a 4-1 header, 60mm TB, high-flow cat, true CAI, and a ported intake manifold. Remember, my car's a 1.8, not a 2.0, which should see even more power.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Later,
Aaron Britt
Events Coordinator, Las Vegas F-body Assoc.
'97 Trans-Am WS6
'96 Elantra GLS
"The shortest distance between two points is a straight line........but, it's not as much fun."
<img src="http://www.speedcraving.com/i8acobra/flag.gif">
 

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A stock should be about 121 whp, with your catback and cone intake 125whp sounds modest, if not correct..
Don't forget guys, that a catback will increase the power to the wheels, not a whole lot at the crank. An intake (CAI) is less restrictive and allows dense cooler air which when combined with fuel gives a stonger fire in the cylinders. all of the mods are usually quite modest by themselves,.. but when combined, they all compliment each other and increase performance and hp and Torque. I am not an expert, I just have a bit of knowledge thru trial and error. When I get the catcams, I later hopreto get the bigger throttle body, and port match the manifold. Also a complete catback would be an asset instead of an Axle back.
Hope this info helps somone.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Apex springs,BSA rims,Toyo tires,AOS intake, UR Crank Pulley, grape shooter, OBX Fr strut bar, Shark clear corners, APC gauges. KORE wires,.. blah,.. blah, blah, kICKER 12" AND AMP.
Body kit soon, and hopefully Catcams?
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
A stock should be about 121 whp, with your catback and cone intake 125whp sounds modest, if not correct..<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Back up. You just said, " At the wheels a stock tib is usually around 121whp". A stock Tib. has a 2.0L motor and is rated at 140 at the crank from the factory. My car has a 1.8L (as I stated in my post) and is rated at 127 at the crank from the factory. Are you telling me you believe a stock 2.0 and a stock 1.8 put the same power to the ground?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Don't forget guys, that a catback will increase the power to the wheels, not a whole lot at the crank.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Huh? The only thing that would increase power to the wheels without increasing power at the crank would be drivetrain improvements. These include a lightweight flywheel, stronger/lighter clutch, lighter/stronger axles, lightweight wheels/tires, or thinner tranny lubricant.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Later,
Aaron Britt
Events Coordinator, Las Vegas F-body Assoc.
'97 Trans-Am WS6
'96 Elantra GLS
"The shortest distance between two points is a straight line........but, it's not as much fun."
<img src="http://www.speedcraving.com/i8acobra/flag.gif">
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
A stock should be about 121 whp, with your catback and cone intake 125whp sounds modest, if not correct..<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Back up. You just said, " At the wheels a stock tib is usually around 121whp". A stock Tib. has a 2.0L motor and is rated at 140 at the crank from the factory. My car has a 1.8L (as I stated in my post) and is rated at 127 at the crank from the factory. Are you telling me you believe a stock 2.0 and a stock 1.8 put the same power to the ground?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Don't forget guys, that a catback will increase the power to the wheels, not a whole lot at the crank.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Huh? The only thing that would increase power to the wheels without increasing power at the crank would be drivetrain improvements. These include a lightweight flywheel, stronger/lighter clutch, lighter/stronger axles, lightweight wheels/tires, or thinner tranny lubricant.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Later,
Aaron Britt
Events Coordinator, Las Vegas F-body Assoc.
'97 Trans-Am WS6
'96 Elantra GLS
"The shortest distance between two points is a straight line........but, it's not as much fun."
http://www.speedcraving.com/i8acobra/flag.gif">
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Have to agree with you on that.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left><img src="http://www.plauder-smilies.de/devil/firedevil.gif">2001 Hyundai Tiburon FX 5-Speed Cardinal Red <img src="http://www.plauder-smilies.de/devil/firedevil.gif">
Just bought it so there are no mods, but I'm getting to it<img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>
 

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I know more about my car 2000 2.0 tib than I do about your 1.8l tib. Your cam profile is more aggrassive i believ to make up for the lack of displacement. I am not positive about the vehicle that claimed 150WHEEL HP, I thought he was talking about a 2litre engine!? I don't know what your stock Crank HP is, or for that matter what it is a the wheels. No body likes to here the truth about reality and what your car puts to the ground. Everyone loses hp by the time it gets to the Pavement. Some CAI's claim 15hp or more,this is not true , the only improvement is denser air, ..your valves don't stay open longer to allow more volume in, only the quality of oygen is better ( COOLER means more oxygen molecules for volume). In reality you may get 2-5hp at the WHEELS. I am not trying to deter you, maybe you should ask other 1.8 owners about there experiences.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/sleep.gif width=27 height=25 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Apex springs,BSA rims,Toyo tires,AOS intake, UR Crank Pulley, grape shooter, OBX Fr strut bar, Shark clear corners, APC gauges. KORE wires,.. blah,.. blah, blah, kICKER 12" AND AMP.
Body kit soon, and hopefully Catcams?
 
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