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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some info please. I have a 2006 V6 Tib and a set of 20" Lenso Titans that came off my RAV4. According to the calculations, I should use a 235/25/20 tyre, but does not seem to be availible, the next best is 225/30/20. But here is my problem, Is this the correct tyre size to use? and will my 35 off-set mags with the tyres rub. I know it clears perfect on the inside, as a mater of fact it is in exact spacing from strut as the standard 215/45/17. The calculation shows the wheel and tyre will be 21mm further out than the standard. Anyone some knowledge on this for me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I forward the info. Will see what comes back.
 

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20's on a tib is rice....
 

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optimoprime said:
20's on a tib is rice....
I wouldn't consider it rice... Rice would be having 2 16" steelies in the front and having 2 18" Enkei's in the back. 20's are always nice, but they're not for the performance minded. They're heavy, especially if they're chrome, and will rob you of low end torque and you'll see a decrease in mileage at about 2 miles per gallon. I thought 19's were pushing it, but I'd love to see how 20's would work.

Post pics after it's done eh?!

Howie~
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I understand the power loss, but to me it is more about doing what others have not tried. Must say had some good feedback and found quite a number of guys that have done 20's already. I am currently waiting for my rubber, as unfortunatly in South Africa it is not a standard size off the shelf.

The weight difference between my current 17's and the new 20's aint much, but the moment of inertia is considerbly different, so will effect my pull and stopping a bit. As soon as I have it on, I will forward the picks. Also looking at the lowering kits, but need to deside between intrax or eibach. Any suggestions?
 

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20s on a tib is not smart. you're increasing the unsprung weight and you will destroy your suspension if you still use it as an everyday runner. and as for the weight increase, is makes a huge difference if the tires are even only a few pounds heavier. for every pound you remove from unsprung rolling mass, like rolling wheels, it is the equivilant to removing 20 pounds from the sprung mass, or the rest of the car. your drive train will stress and crack and break with the added inches and weight if you drive your car hard. it doesn't all go bad right away, but it will alot faster than stock.

for suspension, look into skunk2's sport street coilovers or tein's comfort sport line. DO NOT USE STRUT BARS AS THEY WILL CAUSE TOWER DAMAGE IF THE WHEEL SMASHES INTO THE TOWER OR WALL. your car will not be able to flex and something WILL break. stay away from race, track, or pro suspension systems. they will not give you the durability you will need. upgrading your springs will not be enough.

good luck and be sure to post pix afterwards.
 

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IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A WIDE BODY KIT DO NOT INSTALL 20" WHEELS, AND SPEAKING OF WEIGHT MY 20" RIMS WEIGHT LESS THAN MY 17" STOCK RIMS, LOOK UP ALLOY WHEELS, I DON'T SEE ANY DIFFERENCE IN ACCELERATION. BEFORE WHEN MY ENGINE WAS STOCK I'VE RACED WITH OTHER TIBURON GT V6 NO DIFFERENCE WHAT SO EVER, DON'T BUY ADR 25 lb PER RIM LOL
 

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use math to judge acceleration. other conditions make a difference like tires, temp, SKILL. but trust me, heavier wheels equals slow acceleration. greater diameter equals less torque and slower acceleration.
 
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