[Melissa08]

I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata with 257,380 miles. Recently, while driving it feels like it jerks lightly, (it doesnt do this every drive), and my ESC (electronic stability control) light will come on. When I park it sounds like it's putting a bit running, i shut the car off and restart the car and it goes away. Any knowledge and feedback would be great at this point.

 

[stevelitech2018]

My 2009 hyundai sonata has the same issue. The only code from scanner is p0336, which indicates a crankshaft position sensor. has seen this issue from multiple sources and would also like to know the fix.

 

[jacob.h]

I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata with 257,380 miles. Recently, while driving it feels like it jerks lightly, (it doesnt do this every drive), and my ESC (electronic stability control) light will come on. When I park it sounds like it's putting a bit running, i shut the car off and restart the car and it goes away. Any knowledge and feedback would be great at this point.

Did you ever resolve this issue?

 

[jacob.h]

My 2009 hyundai sonata has the same issue. The only code from scanner is p0336, which indicates a crankshaft position sensor. has seen this issue from multiple sources and would also like to know the fix.

Did you ever resolve this issue?

 

[geezer101]

Anyone tried removing the crank sensor and inspecting/cleaning it? It is a halls effect sensor and minute debris built up on the surface of the sensor can cause intermittent malfunctions and false trigger readings.

 

[jacob.h]

Anyone tried removing the crank sensor and inspecting/cleaning it? It is a halls effect sensor and minute debris built up on the surface of the sensor can cause intermittent malfunctions and false trigger readings.

I'm gonna try this today. I replaced the CPS about 6 months ago. I wouldn't think that would cause my issue but I have been wrong before.

 

[geezer101]

Good luck with this. I had a look on other sites and ESC faults can be difficult to diagnose. If there is a ton of debris in the crank case and on the crank itself, the problem could possibly rear it's head again in a relatively short period of time. I have a J2 Lantra with the G4GF engine and as far as I know the crank position sensor is still the original one which means it's been in service for over 20 years. I have gotten into the habit of flushing the engine which may be helping signal reliability...

 

[jacob.h]

Good luck with this. I had a look on other sites and ESC faults can be difficult to diagnose. If there is a ton of debris in the crank case and on the crank itself, the problem could possibly rear it's head again in a relatively short period of time. I have a J2 Lantra with the G4GF engine and as far as I know the crank position sensor is still the original one which means it's been in service for over 20 years. I have gotten into the habit of flushing the engine which may be helping signal reliability...

Replaced the crank sensor and it solved the issue. Have no idea why that was causing all my problems and not throwing a code. Best advice is don't buy a cheap replacement.

 

[geezer101]

Replaced the crank sensor and it solved the issue. Have no idea why that was causing all my problems and not throwing a code. Best advice is don't buy a cheap replacement.

Good news that you have the issue fixed. A friend of mine commented about the supply of fake sensors that are on the market for Nissans. Some of them have been known to damage ECU's...

 

[geezer101]

*could you post up the part manufacturer/supplier and number as a reference for other members - this may help avoid or fix similar/same issues other members are experiencing. Thanks

 

[geezer101]

Replaced the crank sensor and it solved the issue. Have no idea why that was causing all my problems and not throwing a code. Best advice is don't buy a cheap replacement.

Let's say hypothetically the plastic resin body of the sensor is slightly different - seat offset is shallower, plastic is a slightly denser composition or the casing over the end is thicker etc. The pick up in the sensor will still show that it is operational and has the correct resistance value, but not getting a decent field trigger from the crank. ECU sees the sensor is 'ok', but no trigger pulse...