2k4 elantra ???

Wow that was one misinformative post

CAIs actually create torque in an elantra. On elantraxd.com there are dynos to prove it. Shorty warm air things loose a few lbs of torque down low but gain a few hp. If you felt like you lost torque you might want to look at what setup you ran.

That valve he is talking about is in the muffler.... so by leaving it alone that means he has to leave the stock muffler in place. I saw really nice gains with a bump in pipe size, deleteing the resonator, and putting on a generic "turbo" muffler.. no annoying sounding fart can here. I would reccomend that setup to anyone looking for more torque and dont want to annoy your home town.

Ill agree with the eibachs, good choice. You might want to go ahead and throw some sturts on if your going to install spings. Instead of getting strut tower braces get a tiburon rear sway bar. You will see more gains for about the same price.

To: WytchDctr
As far as CAI's and Shortrams I've had no luck I didn't feel the power I wanted out of either all it did was make the car more noisy under the hood and waist my money. So i sold them to friends. I found a K&N air filter put in the stock air box worked nicer(be careful not to over oil it or you will get oil on your MAF and mess it up and get a check engine light). No noise and ehh same results as a short ram. Then I went a step further and removed the elbow from the intake in front of battery and disconnected the flexable hose from the radiator cross support and put it so the opening of the hose was in front (pinched between radiator cross support and radiator/condensor, it fits just with enough pressure to keep it in place) to give it a bit of "ram air" so to speak and that was the best result (a nice force of air through the front of the car!). I saw the faster i went the faster the car felt. No bullshit I even got better gas mileage as crazy as it seems. (cold dense air from front of car vs.- hot air from under hood, you decide) cold air from front of car means more dense air wich means better fuel consumption and cleaner burn. Also it was high enough up that you don't have to worry about putting an air bypass valve in, cutting unnessary holes in bumper or removing bumper inserts and you get the same result as a CAI for a lot cheeper! (hey he wanted budget so that was budget)

As far as the exhaust ok the valve is in the muffler I agree but it's just so boring to here a loud exhaust or even a semi loud exhaust on a car that isn't really that fast. Anoutherwords if you want the car to go fast pay the piper and do it right, do internals, go turbo, or go supercharger oh and the real budget a nitrous fogger kit(you have a cast Iron bottom end so it will handle decent boost/juice. Instead of making a ghetto racer!
Hey why not tell him to go on streetfire.net and show a dyno pull where the guy used a leave bower to make his car have more hp. Hell there is even a sight were this dude bought an electric blower and put it on his intake, hooked up a switch on his dash and presto home made supercharger. Now that's budget because the blower only cost 50 bucks, the DC to AC inverter you can buy at radioshack And pepboys sells do it yourself intake parts for cheap too. So for the price of a good CAI you can have all that. :devious:

[Edited by greatwhiteshark on Apr 27, 2006 8:49 PM]

Now your talking about putting a part in the car that's made for a honda? And you couldn't tell i was being a smart ass about the blower for the intake and the leave blower that was gas powered not electric, also read what I wrote (Now that's budget because the blower only cost 50 bucks, the "DC to AC inverter" you can buy at radioshack And pepboys sells do it yourself intake parts for cheap too. So for the price of a good CAI you can have all that.) That whole part was a smart ass comment I saw this on a website in a car I would never even think to put this in a car that i own.

Listen the guy only wants to go cheap with mods those were sugestions not my personal preference if you want cheap get cheap or get creative and not spend alot of money at all by doing the intake modification and add a K&N air filter that i did to my car it works! I use it for what it was made to do be a cheap AtoB car. However I will upgrade my brakes once my second set finally craps the bed, yeah my second set warrentied because they keep warping out and the dealer wont put new rotors on so they keep cutting the old ones, yeah lets make them thinner so they warp out quiker so I will be going with the KVR cross drilled rotors and KVR pads for the front and using bendex organic shoes for the rear. I lost my interest in hookin this car up, the air bag light still isn't fixed after bringing it to dealer 3 times for so called recalls that are ECU reflashes, reflashes my ass explain why sitting in the passenger seat at a light and for no reason the passenger airbag off light comes on. Hell if you fart in the seat it will come on. It's a crappy system and it's way to sensative. Then my driver side door actuator **** the bed so i had to manually lock and unlock the driverside door when the car only had 10k then my head lights are filling up with condesation because the seal on the lights split pretty soon I will be able to put fish in there. The car has never been in an accident so there is no reason why a seal that should last 10 years goes bad. The visor mirror on the passenger side broke and it flops around. My interior all you have to do is brush up on it the wrong way and it scratches and you can't polish it out. WTF? I work on Lexus's for a living and i take care of all my cars. Here it is in a nut shell the car was a 14k car new it was built for budget buyers that couldn't afford a civc or toyota and now the new one looks just like a corrolla. So go figure. :smoking:

[Edited by greatwhiteshark on Apr 28, 2006 7:11 PM]

[Edited by greatwhiteshark on Apr 28, 2006 7:20 PM]

Actually I had to cut that space for the bypass valve and it took a grand total of.. drum roll..... 10min to do. Painting it black took alot longer. Should I give him a class on how to use a can of high temp spray paint? That intake places the filter in a nice sport just behind where a fog light goes or in my case would go. So yes its a very viable option esp. for its price. If someone can't figure out how to cut 1/8 (if that) inch thick aluminum they need to stop changing things under the hood. Also if they can’t figure out they need to keep something like a MAF sensor in the intake system… they either need to stop doing stuff or atleast get some help :ermm: I have no idea why this is still going. You gave two peices of bad information (dynos say your wrong on the intake thing and the exhaust valve's location) and now your trying to attack anything I say. How about a nice big cup of "get over it" and move on. : If you want to continue this argument you can find my email address in my profile.

Good evening, I'm still pretty new to HP, but I also have a 2004. I've done the following and

94-97 accord 4 cyl intake, with silicone couplers bought from autozone for the MAF, can be had for $60 or so grand total with some work, and it makes an excellent mod for the car, its relatively easy and very worthwhile.

As for exhaust, I have a custom 2.25 cat back with a dynomax superturbo 3 muffler, which cost $225 altogether (would have cost $190 total, but I went to a more expensive exhaust shop in favor of expediency) I've found that there are nice gains from that, it doesn't sound very ricey at all.

Headers are available for less than $200 shipped on ebay, but the price is a good indicator of the quality. You would also have to take them to an exhaust shop to avoid throwing a check engine light.

Just my suggestions, based off of what I already have. I have yet to get a Tiburon sway bar, so I can't speak of what I do not know.

Good luck though! Happy modding!