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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ever since I installed the turbo kit and the AEM fic and tuned it a thousand different ways, the car still does the same weird thing and that gives me some ideas of having a sensor/electrical problem. When the car goes from vacuum to boost, it bogs a little and then goes fine. Now, when I hit the gas, release it and then hit it again, it goes lean, bogs, and then goes fine again. Also, when I race it and hit the rev limiter several times when hard shifting - release the throttle and WOT it again, the car dies big time loses completely power for 1sec and then backs up again. Thinking of it as a closed loop-open loop problems I have disconnected the o2 sensor completely and tuned the car this way. The fuel trims are great but the same problem is still here.. clamped the map sensor so it doesn't see any boost - retuned the fuel trims still does the same. Changed coilpacks, plugs, wires, checked the injectors (are new), changed a couple of sensors like cam/crank, map, tps etc and the problem is still here. The fine tuning of the car is on 4th gear for 1000rpm till redline. The a/f ratios there are 11.5:1 solid while the car is on boost and I'm not having any problems with that. On partial throttle, I'm at 12:1 (I preffer this way) still solid no a/f problems at all. Now the thing that bothers me is that the IAC - idle valve is sitting outside the plenum (beta1 engine) and I have connected the one hose into the intake manifold as it is stock and the other to my charge pipe (as it is stock too). The reason I am mentioning this is that because I have no other ideas of what the problem might be as I have checked every single sensor-voltages and they seem fine. I have no cel whatsoever except the o2 sensor (logical coz it's disconnected). Now, I don't want to disconnect this thing because it might give me other problems that I don't want to. Is there any reason that this thing causes me these problems? I repeat, hit the gas, release then hit it againv - bogs. Vacuum to boost - bogs. Racing rev limiting and hard shifting - bogs. Racing rev limiting but NOT hard shifting, it goes cool! I'm really confused with this and any help would be much appreciated. I have help from aem for the FIC the logs are all fine , double and tripple checked them with the aem people. Now I'm really convinced that this has something to do with a mech/elect. problem. Just please help me it's the only problem I am experiencing and I'm close to perfection...
Not to forget : I have retarded the ignition timing but that doesn't cure the problem too..The bov is ok checked it too no issues here - even disconnected it and tapped the pipe.. stil does it. Any ideas?
 

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You have the IAC out of the metered air circuit, is that right? Since that's for use at closed throttle and connects to the main vac. source it is at least something to consider.

Clean it and rig it up temporarily and see if it fixes the problem. Maybe the short duration throttle release is too fast, and it is also freaking out about the vac/boost transition.
 

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ya dude ill be looking at this post very closely becouse I was once turbo and I had the same problem then I took the turbo off and the car sat for a long time and now I got it running again with no turbo stock cat and manifold and it is still bogging and it is bugging the [email protected]#* out of me now ill be ordering my new 50trim t3/t4 and my new manifold is being made by me now. and after seing your posts ill be running aem fic since you have good luck with it. anyways I want to fix this problem before I go turbo and it seems like its the same thing you have and im N/A so I agree it might be something electrical like a short or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The IAC is out, cleaned and replaced. Still the same ****. I'm gonna burn this fic can you please tell me any more ideas? I don't know where to search..
 

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you know I had a problem with mi IAC a long time ago so I replaced it and still the same thing. the problem I had was that the engine wouldnt rev past 3000 rpm at all it just bogged down wierd but when I unplugged it it was fine so what I did was take it off then I copied the gasket onto gasket material that I have and instead of the big holes I put little holes on the gasket when I put it on the idle was real low so I raised the idle with the screw located on the throtle body. now I dont know if this is cousing a problem now but it is what I did im not using that valve now
 

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you aint usin a fmu or rrfpr are you? (just ruling out the obvious)
vaccum leak maybe
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Returnless fuel system hence no rrfpr. Vacuum leaks checked replaced the whole vacuum lines, none whatsoever, boost pipes also checked, no leaks too. What the f*** is this... Could it be the map sensor clamp a problem for the ecu. My 2.5bar map hasn't yet arrived. Stupid kspec.
 

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try gettin rid of map clamp, cuz now your fic is gettin an altered signal. the fic is suppose to akter the signal so that might be ****in it up
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh no I'm using the fic to clamp the map sensor's voltage nothing else on the map.
 

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oh gotcha cuz i was gonna say a modded map signal to a box aint gonna help you...

why do you need to clamp the voltage? cant the fic compensate for it?

have you tried takin out map, cleaning it? replacin it? check some of your grounding connections/ wire connections on fic
 

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no if im correct the fic has a built in 2.5 bar map right and at the boost you are running you need to clamp it anyways but that doesnt rule out the fact that it might be your map sensor but I do know that fintiles map sensor went out and it was still running good so I dont know what about fuel filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Swapped to walbro 255, changed the fuel filter it does it again.. If I leave the map sensor without any clamp from the fic the car wont boost over 7psi or sth. and it bogs real bad , cutting and stuff. It's almost a month that kspec sent the 2.5bar map sensor and it hasn't yet arrived and I'm really pissed off... I don't know...
 

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hyundaiturbo14b is right, the aem fic has its own 2.5 ba map sensor hooked up already. do you hav a vaccumm line running to the unit itself?

lets see if its your stock map sensor. run that vac line to fic, keep map plugged in. drive car. then try unpluggin the stock map and drivin
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Of course the fic is connected to the vacuum line otherwise I couldn't even start the car and tune it. If I unplug the engine's map sensor the whole tuning will go to hell and I'll have to retune the car because the ecu will run a different map there.. I'll have to try it..
 

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if you never get that map sensor let me know I have one that is just sitting around ill sell it to you it is a 2.5 bar map sensor from shark racing or something I got it and I dont see myself using it becouse I think it has to be used with a ramapped ecu. but everything that you are doing I dont see you having any problems with the your tune I think it might be spark blow out maybe. are you running a smaller gap than factory or have you upgraded your ignition system with more boost you get more spark blowout.
 

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sell your aef fic and buy megasquirt!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah yeah and who's going to tune it??? Or even better, who is going to fire up the car.. this thing won't even have a base map!:eek:
 

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:)
bah it's little bit of pain but the result is very very good....
i have many config files for accent and tib 4cyl...and with tuning guide and datalog it's easy to adjust this map for your setup....on my accent...i have stock ecm for timming (ms ecu will take the job after this winter...it's too cold for me at quebec city for working under the hood) and Megasquirt for fuel...before this i have tried FMU and AFM whitout succes....allways bug..hesitation and lean spot and big lack of power at low rpm....but now it's awesome the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Can you give me some pointers on what to buy? (megasquirt version sensors etc etc?) My email is j_papandreou at yahoo dot gr
 

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MS 1 ver3 ecu with msnspark extra...i have assembled my unit but diyautotunes.com sell assembled unit to match with what you need.(2 vb921 drivers and no bias resistor on temp input)

i have all stock sensor. i have make my temp correction with EasyTherm software...for the info..i will give you good value is you need that

for the moment i don't control my timing but the stock timming is pretty good for under 10 psi setup...but one very important thing to take is put 4 resistor of 15omh at the place of injector on stock ecu injector wiring between this and injector +12v. whitout this...the stock ecu retard timming of 30 degres!!

i don'T use the idle control of ms ecu...my stock ecu take the job very weel!

and you need laptop with serial port for tuning.

The only prob of tuning i have found is start the engine when my motor is hot...and now all is ok ...but a little bit of pain on that but my fuel pressure is very high and that is my probleme...i have tried many setting and now he start very weel!

But for your buckage before change ECU, try with little gap on spark plug...stock gaps is 0.044...try with 0.035 and 0.028....this mod help for buckage...but it's not magic!
 
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