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CAI do not work for accents. Not sure about the Mc's but they have the same engine just with valve timming. But to each his own.
 

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Re: Intakes

Iam not going really for power, because in terms of power,I know that the the SRI always beats the CAI in Accents. I did cold for the gas mileage. Iam also thinking about making it a double one. I have the pipes and the Y connector, plus a racing intake I might try it(it would be cold + warm since the racing intake is quite large, and i can only do warm due to engine space.) I bet my gas mileage might drop or even go up but there will be a substantial increae in power,due to that racing intake; just a hypothesis.
 

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Re:Spectre Intake

I tried one my 07 Accent, it gives lots of power, but the gas mileage is just abhorently horrible, 20 mpg or less. I would use a Spectre Short ram for a race though. I would use the Spectre Power Adder filters sold at Autozone for racing purposes personally. I think they even got one in Black to match your ride, which by the way is nice. How are you piping it?
 

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Re:Spectre Intake

Yeah I fabbed my own intake. I went the 3' route, I found APC piping, sawed it, then put a rubber extension on it with couplers of course. I tried many configurations and set ups over the almost year I had my car. I think my intake is still a work in progress. Now, I have an all metal configuration. I had 2 intakes once. There was lots of low band RPM from the double set up, but I wasnt getting that high RPM power. Then again, I did use an APC intake for the second one, and it was a short ram.
 

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No, Mike you dont need a sensor hole man. Are you getting CEL's? The best way to avoid Check Engine Lights for an Intake is to have it be free wtihin the engine bay. I set the intake up between the drivebelts and A/C lines, by placing the piping over the engine noise reduction cover. Oh course, you will want to use an Injen Hydro Sheild bag for that since there will be splashing water. Injen Hydro Shield

I also have another intake that I have placed in the back near my brake fluid assembly for now. I will move that to my front bumper. However that will require a few steps: 1. Purchase of another Injen Hydro Shield, and just to be safe an AEM HYDROLOCK Stopper BKA' 3.0" bypass valve. AEM - 3.0" Air Bypass Valve

2. Remove the Stock Air system completely; that will also require temporary Removal of the battery system (I already have that done and that process takes about 15-30 minutes of careful work.)


One intake is great for the 2006-2010 Accent, however 2 Intakes make it very dangerous.
 

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So if I was to buy a WAI, from what i've gathered it's worse than the CAI as far as mileage, but compared to stock would I have any increase in mileage (assume using k&n).

Thanks
 

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ok one of the best ways to get the fullest out of your SRI is to make or buy a heat shield around it with a hole the size of the tubing where you can put a fitting and pipe in there and run it to the stock intake piece that sits next to the head light (brain fart cant think of the name i know i will remember when i post this up...) that way ya its still going to get warm air duh but it will block out 75-90% of the heat specialy with that cold air coming from the stock piece straight into the heat shield box. does make alot of difference and its the best hybrid to go with, dont have to wory about water dont got to worry about heat and your getting nice cool air. without getting rid of the throttle responce and not having to rob the cold air at higher speeds. hopes this helps some one
 

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so can anyone tell me what year eclipse CAI to look for?

has anyone tried fabricating a "heat shield" for the SRI, and using tubing to lead into it? I would think that would be the best of both worlds???
 

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ok honestly probably no one know what year eclipse fits it bro cause we all make custom cause it works the best and if u realy want to find out try finding some one with an eclipse and make messurments or just buy one and do trial and error cause if it doesnt fit then u can always make it fit just sit down and read what people have to say bout there tips and tricks
 

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with the cai going to the foglight hole, how did you actually get it into the little 'chamber' behind the foglight? did you cut a hole in ths splashguard?
 

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My Spectre WAI build

2008 Hyundai Accent WAI Spectre parts
Okay, this is my first post but I have been comming here for about 3 months now and just registered. After much consideration, I built my own WAI using Spectre parts. As far as gas mileage goes it seems to be the same, maybe even a little better over stock. There is a performance gain, but it is very small, you will mainly notice it going up hills as the Accent HATES hills but just not as much with the increased air flow. Also you will notice it LOUD compared to stock and I also get a strange harmonic resonance from the airfilter... its like a constant hum in E flat.

Parts : 2.5" to 3" rubber coupling, 90 degree elbow, 60 degree elbow, and just their basic Cone Airfilter, the dark red element with black ends. **The ones with the recessed cone in the end will probably be too big** and little cone airfilter or catch can assembly.

Remove top of air box and hose from throttle body, disconnect hose from back of valve cover assembly. *you will have to remove plastic bonnet from top of valve cover* Attach 90 degree to the 2.5-3 adapter then attach to throttle body completely and tighten, attach 60 degree bend and toghten then attach filter. It should rest at a funny angle at the back of battery, partially seated in the stock air box. it may appear to sit kinda high too but your hood will have clearance as long as you didn't get the huge cone filter I told you not to get. Don't forget to attach your lil' filter or catch can behind the valve cover where the origional hose was. Oh... and don't forget to replace the plastic bonnet over the valve cover.

This set up costs 50$ US plus whatever they charge for the tiny filters. I will eventually get the catch can set up and will eventually experiment with taking out the 60 degree and seeing if i can find a 2 inch extension and another 90 degree so the filter will rest down in the origional airbox almost completely.

Pictures will follow once I get bact to my PC in New York.
 

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Hey, nice post, I want to get some new pipes for my 00 accent, thing is Ive heard bout both Homedepot made one and the spectre one whitch sounds great but I have little to no info of, I logged to the website but hyundai wasnt even listed, so can u fill me in on info like, u buy the chrome parts to hook on to the pipe? around how much for the entire thing?
 

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lol WAI are specific to MPG not performance.
I'm a regular in an economy forum too i wrote a whole article on it.

you are missing the fact that a CAI dosnt mean cold air is lead all the way to the combustion chamber.
most newer vehicles (95 +) come with throttle warming features to it.
if I was thinking full cold air I would run a coolant bypass there.

but the fact is shown in many dyno tests that combustion is most efficient at 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit.

by the way O2 sensors are made to see if the combustion of air/fuel is at peak efficiency, but single band sensors aren't 100% right they only read if its too lean or too rich.

wideband O2 sensors on the other hand read how rich or lean the mixture is and CAI dont make Huge Air improvements compared to a stock intake.
made to improve performance with equivalence to stock intake system.

if the CAI ever did make the huge air density improvements you guys speak of the car would need to be retuned.

BUT

in actuality the WAI does the oposite of what extrems you think a CAI does. WAI limits the amount of air going though the intake system, and in that case is limiting the amount of air in the chamber and in turn the O2 sensors are reading the car is running rich so it turns down the amount of fuel needed, and sacrificing power to make a complete combustion.

what ever els happens with the air after the combustion dosnt matter to me.

now remember Im thinking relative to stock, and efficiency is known for effectiveness in both power and MPG.

so if you think im wrong
I urge you to dyno your car on an inertia dyno.

generally my view of efficiency you will get better MPG and power, but if you are loosing one side of the scale you just tipped it you didn't make it more efficient.

lets remember our car were created and tuned in a controlled, possibly indoor, and air condition environment.

ok comparing timing and compression and temperature.
the engine cant make any big differences when it comes to compression vs timing, but when thermal temp is a lot higher there by reducing the amount of air into the combustion chamber suddenly changing the temp to a temperature that isn't too far from itself wont have a bigger impact possibly retarding the timing or making the gas ignite before required to.

if i go on about the CAI I will go off on a calculating tangent

but here I calculated WAI for you
stock intake is about 2 and a half inches wide
air pressure at 70 degrees 100 ft above see level is 0.0742

stock manifold get to about 500 degrees Fahrenheit but lets say light driving you get to 300 and the intake sucks in at 250 (as the temp cools before it hits the IAT sensor {assumeing the IAT is right})

air pressure at 250 degrees 100 ft above see level is 0.0554
(thats what your 2 and a half inch intake opening is getting)
and since pressure cant change in a low volume vacuum the lower 170 degree temperature drop wont make a difference.
except for sparing electronics a bit longer.

but if it sucked air at 170
air pressure at 170 degrees 100 ft above see level is 0.0624
even if you were at see level it will only be 0.0627

all this is still not calculating the humidity in the air as well as the volume.
but if it was added it would look worse due to the quantity of air molecules being less.


but the car wasn't made to have over 150+ degree temp air in the intake.
Im pretty sure sensors go out at extremely hot temps.
and most IAT sensors weren't made for extremely hot air so they might be getting incorrect readings.
which reminds me of if you put a transistor in the IAT plug it will think the air is cold and you will get better mpg a power until the engine blows.

By the way if you want to put hot air into the intake just take the heat shield off the stock manifold it gets everything toasty in the engine bay for you.
 

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i have my o2 accent 1.5L wanna do my cool air/ram air. wanna know when i buy a kit to do so what do i do with the sensor that comes from the tubbing? do i just take it out remove install the new air intake and leave the sensor out?
 

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I have MAP not MAF so i don't know what you can do but i know you should not take the sensor out
 
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