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Discussion Starter #1
I am glad that thing is lite. I was behind a ZX3 going down one of the main roads in this town.. i had cars to the left of me and i was in the far right lane.. the focus decieded to wait untill the last second to avoid an S-10 sitting completely still... his windows were to dark so i couldn't see it.. i wasn't even rideing his ass. I had no were to go.. to many cars to my left so it was up to the brakes.. witch stoped me with a few feet to spare.. big cloud of smoke drifted away after i came to rest. Scared the crap out of me.

WytchDctr
 

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Ive decided on DBA Gold Long life cross drilled and slotted rotors, Dba450x, at $112.00au each, along with some bendix ultimate pads, and when I can afford it some braided lines. That should sort out the stopping power more then sufficiently.
<img src="http://www.discpads.com.au/images/gr_prdct_rtrs_dba_sprts.gif" border=0>

<b>DBA Sports Range</b>
Aggressive & purposeful appearance
Less Fade
Better Pad Bite
Lower Mass
More even pad wear
Improved out-gassing
Better ventilation

<b>Bendix ultimate disc pads</b>
High performance, fade resisting disc brake pad. Suitable for sports, performance and prestige vehicles. Recommended driver use:
- freeway
- competition
- high speed
- touring
Suggested driving style:
- energetic
- hard braking

"I dont suffer from insanity, i enjoy ever minute of it"
 

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I'll be upgrading all four corners of my car to Brembo cross drilled/slotted Tib disc brakes eventually (probably a year or so), so I'll let you guys know how that goes.

<img src="http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/upload/4doorGLSig.gif" border=0>
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got a question.. those brakes are nice and all... but how do you stop faster if as it is you slam on the brakes and the tires lock right (i know its better to do treshold brakeing.. just trying to figure this out). SO if your brakes worked better... what diffrance would there be?? Wouldn't better gripping tires be a better investment and creat better stop times.?

WytchDctr
 

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No it wouldn't.

If you slam on the brakes repeatedly, the brake disc will heat up and will begin creating less and less friction with the brake pad. This is called brake fade.

With cross drilled/slotted rotors there is more surface space to dissipate the heat due to the holes drilled and the slots put into the discs. By increasing the disc size on top of that, you've effectively increased the surface area (aka cooling area) by over 100%!

<img src="http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/upload/4doorGLSig.gif" border=0>
 

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Ive already got 205/45R16 83V Pirelli P5000 tires. The grip difference they made of the stock 14kumho tires is amazing, however I now drive alot faster because the car is so predicable. As a result I only have about 30% pad left. 4DoorGL hit the spot. Thats why im gonna upgrade them. Oh lets not forget how sweet they look with some bigger rims <img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

"I dont suffer from insanity, i enjoy ever minute of it"
 

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Wytch Dr you are dead right - of course better gripping tyres are going to pull you up quicker, rather than skidding straight in to the ass of the broken down car in front of you.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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<b>Rotors</b>
Directional slotting accross the rotors surface increases pad bite and reduces brake fade (as 4doorgl stated, when they get hot they loss their effectiveness). Slots also keep de-glazing the brake pads to help reduce rotor scoring, help dissipate water, dust and dirt and combat 'out-gassing', where gas from the pad's bonding agents can form a cushion between pad and rotor, greatly reducing braking power.

<b>Pads</b>
The friction between the rotor and the pad generates heat. The surface temp of both is the same, but one material (steel) is a conductor of heat and the other (resin, etc in the pad) is an insulator. On initial braking, the disc will get hotter faster but it will also dissipate heat more quickly as it allows for easy heat transfer. The pad, as an insulator, takes longer to heat up but once it is hot it also takes longer to cool down.

"I dont suffer from insanity, i enjoy ever minute of it"
 

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Do they have brakes for the new accent? That seems to be a damn good price. Are they remanufactured stock brakes or are they all new?

<img src="http://www.hyundaiwrc.com/action/photos/thumb/McRae_Shakedown_TNL.jpg" border=0> <img src="http://www.hyundaiwrc.com/action/photos/thumb/bat_hyundai1_sm.jpg" border=0> I love rallies. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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Trust me I know what happens when you heat those pads and rotors to much... You just don't stop! I was driving my friends teg one night, racing my other friends teg, and when I was about to stop in one corner, I didn't and I had to re-merge back onto traffic at the last minute... I did some nasty sh*t to avoid an accident. Brakes are freaking important, and most people leave it as the last mod, that needs to change!
 

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Yeap thats new, for the 2000+ accent. Its about $90 for the pads. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

"I dont suffer from insanity, i enjoy ever minute of it"
 

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Erik, I haven't done all the planning yet for the rear, but yes, it will be a lot of work.

But I'll need it for when I do my swap and turbo the Beta motor.

<img src="http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/upload/4doorGLSig.gif" border=0>
 

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4Doorgl, have you thought about a 330mm Brake ugrade? I would have thought that it would be a lot cheaper then a rear drum to disc brake conversion. I have only ever seen one true bolt on affair drum to disk conversion, which was for a honda civic ex; no cutting or drilling required. That was from AEM http://www.aempower.com/. The other rear disc brake conversion I know of is for the Lantra (7/94+) from hve, at $880au supply or a cool $1320 fitted, which isnt a bolt on affair. You might want to talk to Bretton about that.

"I dont suffer from insanity, i enjoy ever minute of it"
 
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