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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/snitz/topic.asp?a=&t=7808

Maybe I should have posted this here...anyone???


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I know your pain...I have looked everywhere also and currently, I have not had any luck finding a company that makes an actual aftermarket high performance alternator for our Tiburons. There are many companines that are willing to rewind them for you though. I contacted Stinger and they said thay could upgrade my stock alt. to 135amps. They quoted me a range of $300-$500, though. I didn't think it was worth that much, especially since I would be without an alternator for about 2 weeks. I just recently contacted a local alternator shop that quoted me $150 to rewind my stock alt. I might go with them eventually.
You would actually be suprised at what that little alternator in your Tiburon can do. It can get the job done if you give it a little help. I installed 3, 1.0 farad caps, upgraded the battery to an Optima yellow top and it made a noticable difference. Considering I have 4 LARGE amps in my Tiburon.
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When I DID have a big ass sterio in my car 2 years ago, I used the stock amp, and had 1 inch mtx woofer connected to a 250watt thunder amp. I had no problems. I knew a few others that had HUGE!!!!!!!! systems with there stock amp and also had no problems.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Your death is comming on swift wings, and I am the rider.
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I'm running 1200 watts rms in my car and my haedlights flicker when I turn it up!!!


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll be running 2 12" MMats subs, with an MMats Class D amplifier, an EQX, an Orion amp for my mids and highs, although haven't decided which speakers, and my Alpine deck. From what I read here, the stock alternator should be enough, if not get some power caps?


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Your stock Alternator isn't going to be enough. An MTX 250 isn't anything. If you are pushing a lot of watts you need to upgrade. I need to up grade mine. I have DEI 1100D putting out about 1100 watts because My shi% will never put out 14.4volts to my amp. Plus I'm running a DEI 500 that is putting out about 100x4 so i know i'll never get enough juice with out the alt. But a new batt might help some. Caps only help with extrem low points in volts. But if your sys will be pulling more then 60 amps you need to get a new Alternator. I need to but that will come with time.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2 12" SOLO BARICS
DEI 1100D
DEI 500
IMAGE DYNAICS 6.5" AND 30MM TWEETS
RFX8340 SOON TO BE SOMETHING DIFFERENT
B&M SHORT SHIFTER
 

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It sounds like you need a cap more than you need an alternator.

The alternator provides AC to the battery to charge it. What happens in the amp is that you get a huge current draw for a short period of time. The battery is unable to respond as quickly to the voltage drop causing your lights to flicker.

A possibly cheaper (definitely easier) solution is to try adding a cap to your system (any stereo installation store can recommend the proper capacity based on your current system, 0.5 F, 1 F, etc)...

If you wanted to take the time, you could take a look at the current draw of all the components in your car (lights, radio, amps, etc)... You'll probably find that your alternator can output enough amps to handle it...





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yeah get a cap it act like another batt when you current draw is always low. That will never happen. If you are running one amp a cap is good. If you have more then one it helps but it's not enough. You light will flicker if you don't upgrade you alternator plain and simple. I just love it when people know it all.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2 12" SOLO BARICS
DEI 1100D
DEI 500
IMAGE DYNAICS 6.5" AND 30MM TWEETS
RFX8340 SOON TO BE SOMETHING DIFFERENT
B&M SHORT SHIFTER
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I just love it when people know it all.
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I never claimed to know it all.

I've seen many cars driving amplifiers with a 90 amp alternator. It's pretty easy to figure out because all amplifiers specify the current draw.
Without knowing the specific install, a cap would seem more reasonable in my opinion.
He might even have ground loops... Who knows?


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I installed my first half of my system yesterday (2 MMats 12s and a Class D MMat amp). It took us about 5 hours, and running the 2 gage power cable was absolutely no fun. <img src=/images/forums/snitz/angry.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> Anyways, the subs and the amp for the subs are hooked up, and I haven't noticed any dimming of the lights, and the car bumps pretty good. Nice and loud on the inside, and not very loud on the outside! <img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


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