[mouse]

Hey all. Quick question. The past 4 days or so have been pretty chilly. low 40's to high 30's at night and 50's during the days. I'm not sure if it was the temperature but I notice when I stop, instead of my RPM's staying around 1500 or 2000 like they usually do, they fell to around 750 or 800 and the car would start getting shaky like a miscalibrated idle or something like that. You know what I mean. If you're sitting in your car, in park or neutral just chilling. And your car almost FEELS like it's struggling to stay running. I dunno if my ECU thingamabobber is goofy or what. Any help is much appreciated.

-Mouse

 

[scotto46]

HMMM.... Since our cars are electronic it cant be idle speed like on a carb. Could be fouled plugs ( take em out and check ), cold weather maybe cracked wires ( check ) , or computer not adjusted to different pressure in cold yet. Could also be fuel related - check your fuel filter, too. Your car's old enough to have some of the small stuff like that give out.
In my old muscle car days I would have said timing, distributor, points, carb adjust, etc. but harder with an electronic car.
Sorry I couldn't help more - could be alot of things - just eliminate the obvious and then take it to the dealer .<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

2001 blue Tibby, leather, cd, custom racing stripes, etc. every option avail.

 

[Random]

Uh...mouse. The idle should NORMALLY be at 800 RPM +/- 100 RPM. If your car normally idles at 1500 to 2000....you've got a problem.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.

 

[Lantra]

Mine Idals around 1000 a little less

Silly Ricer, Hondas are for kids!

 

[mouse]

Let me explain this different Random. Usually when I'm coming to a stop, when I'm in neutral, foot off the clutch and braking at a stop light, the RPMS plumett and the car feels like it's about to die.

-Mouse

 

[ID_Tuning]

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Let me explain this different Random. Usually when I'm coming to a stop, when I'm in neutral, foot off the clutch and braking at a stop light, the RPMS plumett and the car feels like it's about to die.

-Mouse


<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>sounds like plugs.
Is it sluggish?

www.idtuning.com

 

[Random]

I would start with the usual suspects.

check/clean your plugs
check your spark plug wires
check the coil pack for Arcing

Bad gas/water condensation in your gas tank? Try some injector cleaner and isoheat to get the water out of your fuel system.

every change your fuel filter? Should be done every 20K to 30K

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.

 

[mouse]

Thanks I will try all off that tomorrow. And no it hasn't been sluggish. I've been running pretty well lately. I'm getting about 300 miles to the tank in the city. Accel is fine. No skips or sputters while driving, only while braking.

-Mouse

 

[TWINCAM]

I had the same type of problem two weeks after I picked up my Tib and it just kept getting worse. It turned out being the idle control unit. It's just a valve that opens and closes to control the air intake at idle on my car it is located right behind the intake manfold and has a hose that runs to the manifold on one end and another hose that goes on the air intake tube before the throttle bodie on the other end. All it really does is create a vaccum leak because the ecu has no way of opening and closing the thottle bodie to control the amount of air to be used at idle. I don't know if the 98 tib's have the same set-up but most fuel injected cars do have them.

I RACE TO WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[AUTOBOT]

<b>Originally posted by Random</b>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
every change your fuel filter? Should be done every 20K to 30K
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>

Not calling you out Random but the Chiltons says to change the fuel filter every 52,000 miles. Are you just changing it every 20k to 30k miles for performance reasons or do you realy think we should change our filters that often?

<img src="http://www.coreyandjayshow.com/pee.gif" border=0><img src="http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/upload/binladen.jpg" border=0>

 

[TurbochrgedTIBBI]

i dont have a chilton's, i think i might get one!<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

 

[mouse]

Where can you getta chilton's?


-Mouse

 

[Random]

Autobot-

I also change my oil and filter every 3000 miles whereas chilton says 5000-6000 is fine. The shop service manual says if you suspect the Fuel filter, and it has been longer than 20,000 miles...replace it.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.

 

[mouse]

Plugs were fouled up. Changed 'em today. Put on my strut tower brace too! Gotta go have fun! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

-Mouse

 

[scotto46]

Hey, I was right first guess. I must not be that lame after all!
<img src=icon_smile_shy.gif border=0 align=middle>

2001 blue Tibby, leather, cd, custom racing stripes, etc. every option avail.