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166 Posts
HOW DO U DO IT. im guessing with some source of heat... hmmm but howwwww!
Bending PVC pipe...
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hmmm yeah cos im making a intake pipe out of pvc... and i guess will still work the same using the corner joiners... would be better if it were bent though... better flow?
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theres no way your gonna be able to bend it better then the bends they sell for the stuff, the bends have zero roughness to them. once you start trying to bend the pipe itself, your gonna end up with a mess.
PVC intakes are a horrible thing anyway's, the PVC give's off toxic gas once it heats p that has been proven to be harmful to your engine. why not just buy some metal bends or a intake for another car, and addapt it to fit? its beyond easy, my tibby has a modded AEM integra GSR intake on it....
PVC intakes are a horrible thing anyway's, the PVC give's off toxic gas once it heats p that has been proven to be harmful to your engine. why not just buy some metal bends or a intake for another car, and addapt it to fit? its beyond easy, my tibby has a modded AEM integra GSR intake on it....
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2,803 Posts
i HELP PEOPLE BEND pvc FOR A LIVING.
(Ooops, caps)
You can buy a $200+ PVC blanket to heat it right, then bend it the way you want, or use a "Pipe Snake". That's a brand name, not a tool name. Plumbers sometimes call their augers "pipe snakes" but that's not what I'm talking about.
Either of the two methods I suggested will get you smoother internals on the bend than the factory elbows. Ever stick your hand inside a factory bend? The inside corner is completely wavy. Not so great for air flow, it's kinda like a using duct pipe from a clothes dryer.
I would suggest going to Lowe's Depot and asking for a length of EMT from the electrical dept. or going to your local electrician and buying a few feet and having them bend it how you want. It's thin wall metal pipe, just like the commercial intakes available, but parts from an electrician should be under $10.
(Ooops, caps)
You can buy a $200+ PVC blanket to heat it right, then bend it the way you want, or use a "Pipe Snake". That's a brand name, not a tool name. Plumbers sometimes call their augers "pipe snakes" but that's not what I'm talking about.
Either of the two methods I suggested will get you smoother internals on the bend than the factory elbows. Ever stick your hand inside a factory bend? The inside corner is completely wavy. Not so great for air flow, it's kinda like a using duct pipe from a clothes dryer.
I would suggest going to Lowe's Depot and asking for a length of EMT from the electrical dept. or going to your local electrician and buying a few feet and having them bend it how you want. It's thin wall metal pipe, just like the commercial intakes available, but parts from an electrician should be under $10.
That depends on the brand I guess. The elbows I've bought (ABS and PVC) appeared to be extruded and perfectly smooth. You must be talking about large radius bends for like a pipe run I guess, which shouldn't be what he's looking for.busy_squirrel said:Either of the two methods I suggested will get you smoother internals on the bend than the factory elbows. Ever stick your hand inside a factory bend? The inside corner is completely wavy. Not so great for air flow, it's kinda like a using duct pipe from a clothes dryer.
I was building a plastic intake (ABS, not PVC. PVC emits a lot of toxic fumes when heated and gets brittle) but then I removed the scoop I was going to duct the cool air from so I abandoned the project. If you haven't bought the materials yet go with ABS. You'll be happier in the end and the nice black ABS looks better than PVC white.
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umm, you have seen some cheap *** bends. my full time job is for WM F. meyer, the biggest plumbing supply house in IL. i handle pipe and fittings all day, and can say that at least our fittings are perfectly smooth.
actually just to prove my point, ill take a few pics today, believe me, no waves, ive never even seen any other brands that did either.
but as i said in my first post, why bother with the pvc in the 1st place, just buy a intake for another car off ebay that has similar bends to what you need, and adapt it to fit.
actually just to prove my point, ill take a few pics today, believe me, no waves, ive never even seen any other brands that did either.
but as i said in my first post, why bother with the pvc in the 1st place, just buy a intake for another car off ebay that has similar bends to what you need, and adapt it to fit.
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dude, you're probably talking about ABS pipe which is usually black or white and from what I hear is mostly what plumbers use.
I'm talking about STANDARD SCH. 40 PVC, you know, the gray stuff. True, I can't stick my hand in most elbows with less than 3" diameter, but I'm not talking about large bends, aka SWEEPS. Factory elbows look smooth but if you run your fingers over the insides of them, you can feel that they're not smooth on the inside.
This goes for:
I'm talking about STANDARD SCH. 40 PVC, you know, the gray stuff. True, I can't stick my hand in most elbows with less than 3" diameter, but I'm not talking about large bends, aka SWEEPS. Factory elbows look smooth but if you run your fingers over the insides of them, you can feel that they're not smooth on the inside.
This goes for:
- PW Eagle (manufacturer here in Tacoma, WA)
- Lamson & Sessions (aka Carlon and a leading domestic producer of thermoplastic conduit, enclosures, wiring devices and accessories for the construction, consumer, power and communications markets, and large diameter pipe for wastewater markets.)
- Cantex (a leading producer of PVC Products, with eight manufacturing facilities located strategically from east to west across the country.)
- JM Manufacturing (the largest producer of plastic pipe in the world.)
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I do that when I have a ton of couplings or bell end fittings to slip over my arms, 'cuz that way I can still bend at my joints.
And why is Chris looking for plastic anyways? Price? Is he trying to insulate the air from the engine bay? Wouldn't metal pipe with wrapping or plastic coating work better?
And why is Chris looking for plastic anyways? Price? Is he trying to insulate the air from the engine bay? Wouldn't metal pipe with wrapping or plastic coating work better?
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1,447 Posts
what are you looking to make??? if its a cold air, use and eclipse intake.
This is just my opinion, but I would never use a PVC intake. Mainly becasue of the toxic gas issue, the fact that it will break down over time, and the fact that for the hassle of making something like that you could spend like $150 bucks and get a nice intake made by a robot in Japan . (not a PVC robot haha)
. (not a PVC robot haha)
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166 Posts
i could spend $150 on an intake... but that would cost $150... thats the point... but no im not going to use pvc piping anymore.... but i will be using something and modifying it to fit myself... cos it wont cost much
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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This is an ancient thread I'm reviving here but... if you have built a 'CAI' out of PVC and it's getting hot enough to start releasing plastic vapour/fumes, it isn't a 'cold air intake'. The problem with trying to heat PVC to shape it is it has a tendency to shrink when it's heated to the point where it becomes malleable. I've made a cheap CAI out of 75mm stormwater pipe with a 65mm elbow to adapt it to the factory air box.
The closest heat source my DIY PVC CAI duct is exposed to is the lower radiator hose (a new record for how many consecutive acronyms abused in one sentence!) Most of the aftermarket 'CAI' kits use those gawdaful ram pod air filters that do an awesome job of pulling hot air from inside the engine bay (right before the foam filter element crumbles and gets sucked into the throttle body) It cost roughly $30AUD to make (65mm adapter elbow, a metre of 75mm pipe, 75mm elbow, a 75 to100mm rectangle adapter for the cold intake end and a bottle of PVC pipe glue) Add a can of epoxy satin black paint to camouflage it. Unless you knew the car, you wouldn't notice that it's not factory at first glance.
The closest heat source my DIY PVC CAI duct is exposed to is the lower radiator hose (a new record for how many consecutive acronyms abused in one sentence!) Most of the aftermarket 'CAI' kits use those gawdaful ram pod air filters that do an awesome job of pulling hot air from inside the engine bay (right before the foam filter element crumbles and gets sucked into the throttle body) It cost roughly $30AUD to make (65mm adapter elbow, a metre of 75mm pipe, 75mm elbow, a 75 to100mm rectangle adapter for the cold intake end and a bottle of PVC pipe glue) Add a can of epoxy satin black paint to camouflage it. Unless you knew the car, you wouldn't notice that it's not factory at first glance.
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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227 Posts
I've been reading up more on PVC pipes and the possible risks it poses as an intake. If the amount of heat it is exposed to is low/minimal the risk would also be low. But over the long term it will release chlorides into the air intake stream which poses a chance of damaging sensors. Also chlorides/chlorine is highly reactive with fuel and can produce a corrosive mixture if it directly exposed. I would think we are talking parts per million in regards to chlorides entering the intake, but that would change if enough heat was being absorbed into the PVC subsequently increasing gassing and breakdown of the PVC pipework...
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