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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

I picked up a leftover 2001 Elantra 4-door with ABS and auto on Monday. What I want is more ponies and a tighter suspension.

I want to keep it looking stock (these Michelins seem OK but if you think new tires/wheels are the best buy for improving handling let me know).

And I want to keep it as reliable as possible (I am looking to drive this car into the ground in no less than 150,000 miles, so I don't want nitrous or turbo).

Although my budget is somewhat flexible, I want to get the best bang for the buck and a combination of mods that works best together, keeping in mind reliability.

So if you have a little time, please post a list of what you think constitutes a best buy mod package along with estimated costs and projected benefits. I really appreciate this; I have no idea where to start.

Thanks,

Kurt
 

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Okay. You should look into N/A Mods then

Cold Air Intake (CAI)
Bored out Throttle Body
Bored out/Gasket Matched Intake Manifold
You've already got the good cam in your 2001 Elantra, so no changes there.
Headers would be nice, but the 2001 Elantra header bolt pattern is different, so no one makes headers for your engine at this time. Give Korea about another 2-3 months and they should be out though.
The stock tires suck rox, so some sticker tires would help.
Stiffer springs, struts would tighten up the suspension, as would larger front and rear sway bars. The strut tower bars are also a good addition.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>quote from 4DoorGL: <b><i>"Told you. Random is cool as hell in person, even if he is a dick on the net <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> (j/k)" </b></i>

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Does anyone else here worship Random? <img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>-Mouse
<img src="http://www.fxtreme.org/members/mouse/mousesmiley.jpg">
I need a new sig! <img src="http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/images/forums/snitz/cry.gif">
 

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Random: one of the few people on these forums that didnt get his 600+ posts from whoring but from giving useful facts.
u get a <img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0> for a job well done!


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left><img src="http://home.talkcity.com/SpeedwayDr/speedracer/90logosm.gif"> <img src="http://samadjawed.freeservers.com/images/frontview_garage.jpg"> <img src="http://home.talkcity.com/SpeedwayDr/speedracer/90logosm.gif">
 

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I left out the projected gains and cost. Cost are ball park figures rounded to the nearest $25 and do NOT include shipping. Gains are WHEEL HP gains that you will see on a dyno.

Cold Air Intake (CAI)
$200 3hp to 6hp

Bored out Throttle Body
Bored out/Gasket Matched Intake Manifold
$300 to have your stock units modified. 3-4 HP

You've already got the good cam in your 2001 Elantra, so no changes there.
Headers would be nice, but the 2001 Elantra header bolt pattern is different, so no one makes headers for your engine at this time.
Give Korea about another 2-3 months and they should be out though.
Expect about $350 to $500 and 5-10 HP.

Add a full exhaust with the headers and a high flow cat, and a decent performance muffler.
$300 to $800 for everything (Cat, muffler and piping) and you gain another 5-10 HP.

The stock tires suck rox, so some sticker tires would help.
No HP gains there, but much improved cornering and acceleration (less wheel spin)

Stiffer springs, struts would tighten up the suspension, as would larger front and rear sway bars. The strut tower bars are also a good addition.
Again, better cornering, better road feel. The Springs/struts will help acceleration (less weight transfer means less wheel spin) and MUCH improved Cornering. Sway bars are biggest improvment, then springs/struts, then strut tower braces to stop the chassis flex.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>quote from 4DoorGL: <b><i>"Told you. Random is cool as hell in person, even if he is a dick on the net <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> (j/k)" </b></i>

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, Random (I like that name from Roger Zelazny's "Amber Chronicles"). That's a lot of information I can use! By the way, has anyone written a book or put out a special edition of a magazine dedicated to tweaking the Elantra that also refers to the 2001 model? That might also help me.

OK, I recall that when intake or exhaust restriction is reduced, at a minimum the mix needs to be richer, and I presume the computer is smart but not brilliant. So if I make changes incrementally, how do I ensure optimum mix with each change?

Also if you (or others here) have time, what specific brands and part numbers would you recommend in the same best-bang-for-the-buck vein? I see the gain can be as high as 20 horses or as low as 10, so specific part choice and matching interests me.

Also, how does tweakage affect the warranty? If I just tweak the intake and exhaust as suggested, and something reasonably unrelated goes bad, say a cam, will Hyundai still help me out?

Thanks again, Kurt
 

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Okay, this is going to be long, so light a smoke if you are so inclined....

Random is more a description of my personality, rather than the character from the book series, but that is where the name originated.

No one has yet written a book on how to modify ANY hyundai, not to mention the new Elantra, so you are sorta outta luck there, however, reading HP.com and TeamSR.org is probably your best sources.

The stock ECU is actually fairly good at reading the changes in air temp, air flow etc..etc etc. As long as your changes are "mild" and are limited to bolt ons, you should be fine. To keep track of things, an A/F meter would be a handy gauge to have, but not required untill you increase the stock HP by more than 15% or 20%. Also, the software and cable offered at www.obd-2.com is a damn handy tool for the shadetree mechanic. In addition to resetting the stupid Check engine light, it can record and display most of the engine sensors and allow you to SEE what your modifications have accomplished. Not in 0-60 times or 1/4 mile times, but in raw data form and graphs.

Asking for brand preferences is like asking people to pick ford vs chevy. Everyone has their favorite, and has their own reasons for thinking/claiming to be better than the other. I suggest you simply do some research on every product and ask for people's opinions, and then make your own opinion based off that.

Hyundai and modifications and warranties is a hit or miss affair. Some dealers are really cool, and don't care what you do. RED has a cool dealer in New Mexico, and the dealership guys actually help him build his motor, get parts and information. Other dealers will refuse to work on your car if you change the headlight bulbs. I suggest you contact your local area dealers and talk to the service mangagers. Ask them what they think of minor engine mods, and how it will affect your warranty.

Now granted, the LAW states that the dealership must PROVE that the part you replaced or modification you made caused the fault in the part in order for them to NOT cover the part under warranty. However, in reality, it rarely works this way. You would have to take your car to a third party mechanic, get that mechanic to sign a written afidavit stating that your modification had no relation to the part that broke, and then take the hyundai dealer and possibly Hyundai Corporate to court. Not pretty. Good luck getting good service outta that dealer ever again.

you need to decide which is more important to you. a 10/100 warranty, or a modified car that fits your personality and personal tastes.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>quote from 4DoorGL: <b><i>"Told you. Random is cool as hell in person, even if he is a dick on the net <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> (j/k)" </b></i>

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Sell the elantra and buy something with more potential. <img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0> Im joking, but you can spend all that money and get 20-25 hp if your lucky, or you can spend 500 beans on a nice NOS system. I know, most rookeis are afraid of NOS, but if you run it right and don't get greedy, its the safest thing out. Just make sure you start small, maybe a 30 jet, and already your making more hp then all those bolt-on's. I say a nice 50shot would hold in your motor. Get yourself an analog air/fuel guage to keep an eye on the ratio, the digitials are to hard to read when your ratio is changing rapidly (driving) and have fun smoking some hondas. IF your really a little bitch when it comes to cars, get a wet system. That injects NOS and fuel at the same time, making sure you don't lean out. NOS is the greatest thing ever, just respect it and don't get GREEDY, a 75 shot will blow your motor. And you don't have to loose mpg, cause when the NOS is off, your motor is stock.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>A message to the honda camp, we're coming.
 

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That is completely not true...a stock 2.0L can take a 75 shot all day long. Ask any professional. My service guys are cool as hell too...they are helping me customize my car as well. My rep actually has a shop and he hooks up NOS systems all the time. He said a 75 shot is no problem, that a 50 shot is crap...but he did warn not to go over 100 unless you wanna really get serious.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>"Even in death we live!"
 

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Well, to use a 75 shot, you would have to get a new ignition, better plugs and wires, and a fuel pressure regulater, so you won't risk leaning out. The stock internals will hold a 75 shot, but your stock systems won't, and thats what gives NOS a bad name.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/moon.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Viva la Evolution.
 

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the stock motor and fuel system can handle a 65 shot. For the 75 shot, you would need a larger fuel pump. The nitrous kit should raise the fuel pressure itself, so a different Fuel pressure regulator should NOT be necessary.

Above 75 shot, and you are looking at some serious upgrades like injectors and a S-AFC to keeep the larger injectors in line when not on the bottle.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>quote from 4DoorGL: "Told you. Random is cool as hell in person, even if he is a dick on the net <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> (j/k)"

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 
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