Blow off Valve Shiet

It will connect to your Upper I/C piping just before your TB. sot hat it can get rid of the boost between shifts so it doesn't try and stop the turbo from spooling.

You will also need the flange for it to connect to.



<img src="http://www.speed-factor.com/turbo2_small.jpg" border=0>

AT 14psi HOLD ON TO YOUR SEAT, IT"S GONNA BE A WILD RIDE !!!!

H to the izzO N to tha DA silly ricer you just got beat by a HYUNDAI!!!!!

For Pictures Visit http://www.speed-factor.com/hyundai4g63.html

If you have a MAF, you should get a recirculating blow off valve not a normal BOV.

Here's why. Let's stay your turbo spools up to full boost at 3500 RPM (just an figure I picked). At anything over 3500 RPM, the bov is going to be venting excess pressure to the atsmophere. The problem is that the maf still sees the turbo pulling in JESUS air...even though 25% of it is going out the BOV. So you need to re-circulate the BOV to between the Turbo and the MAF. so that the MAF doesn't see the recirculated air, but only sees the fresh air coming in and makes the proper calcuations for fuel.

If you vent the BOV to the atsmophere, you will run rich.

With the alpine setup I hit 9 psi at 2500 RPM. At anything higher, the wastegate opens and dumps it right out the exhaust. The problem with this? The MAF doesn't know that the wastegate is dumping air...and tells the ECU to dump HELLA FUEL...and I run rich. It is one of the reasons I've had such problems tuning my engine.

I have a turbo-XS Type H blow off valve waiting to be installed. I plan on having alpine install it, and start including it with their kit...as there is no other way to get the MAF to play nice with the Turbo.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.