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How much horsepower are you guys getting out of a boosted Alpha engine?


How about the Beta? I'm in school right now to become ASE certified, so doing the beta swap isn't really out of the question, because I still have a year left and working on the car is easy and free. but I only have 40k on my engine and really dont feel like getting rid of it just yet.

Hopefully this is in the right section, I was thinking maybe this should be in forced induction? ohwell, mods feel free to move this if this isnt in the right place.

:cool:
 

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How much horsepower are you guys getting out of a boosted Alpha engine?


How about the Beta? I'm in school right now to become ASE certified, so doing the beta swap isn't really out of the question, because I still have a year left and working on the car is easy and free. but I only have 40k on my engine and really dont feel like getting rid of it just yet.

Hopefully this is in the right section, I was thinking maybe this should be in forced induction? ohwell, mods feel free to move this if this isnt in the right place.

:cool:
It depends on how it is done and how you understand the ecu mapping and what it is doing. A lot of people think you have to alter your sensor readings to get what you want. You don't necessarily need to mess with the ecu to gain power. You can do that by calculating the air/fuel the ecu is using at stock level and keeping the ratios the same difference range, but higher on the scale.

Many people assume you need to mess with the maf/map sensor readings, but you can do that by calculating how much air is needed and add the right amount of fuel to it so the o2 sensor and injector duty cycles are reading as they were at a stock range, but at a higher number. If you have the stock reading of the o2 sensors at 5 volts and 2 volts, you can accomplish the same thing by keeping the difference of 3 but at a higher number.
 

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It depends on how it is done and how you understand the ecu mapping and what it is doing. A lot of people think you have to alter your sensor readings to get what you want. You don't necessarily need to mess with the ecu to gain power. You can do that by calculating the air/fuel the ecu is using at stock level and keeping the ratios the same difference range, but higher on the scale.

Many people assume you need to mess with the maf/map sensor readings, but you can do that by calculating how much air is needed and add the right amount of fuel to it so the o2 sensor and injector duty cycles are reading as they were at a stock range, but at a higher number. If you have the stock reading of the o2 sensors at 5 volts and 2 volts, you can accomplish the same thing by keeping the difference of 3 but at a higher number.
That is really confusing and it is not at all as complicated as what you are saying. There are so many tests you will have to do to get correct what you are saying and nobody has the time or money if they own an Accent. Besides you cant do it with a working MAP sensor nor with your O2 sensor. You need an open loop so dissconecting your O2 sensor is the only way you can get away with it...your map sensor is going to read a larger than normal air flow weather or not you make that higher number difference. I'm not saying it cant be doen just saying its not worth most ppls time to mess with if you have no idea how to accomplish it on your own.

Simply the Hyundai O2 sensor and MAP sensor work together. If the MAP sensor is reading higher than whats programed into the ecu it will auto correct, same if you are running higher than stock volts with the O2 sensors.

My car is running just fine with no O2 sensor and a dead MAP sensor. simply because with out its nose (O2 sensor) the car cant tell if its running too rich with its higher than normal MAP voltage.

Thats where the SAFC comes in to compinsate for the dead MAP sensor.

You are right however. Allthese cars need is a good air/fuel ratio to run on boost as long as youve got no less than a 14.0:1 your good.

Now since my setup is different (dead MAP/ no O2 sensor) I get 143 hp on a good 11.9:1 A/F ratio. with a 16:1 (way lean) I get 130 all on 5psi...so assuming it all has similar ratios. 1 psi gives you 10 hp. 5 psi gives 50+ over stock so 10 psi should give you 185-195 whp...with good a/f ratios.
 

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Thats where the SAFC comes in to compinsate for the dead MAP sensor.
Using the SAFC confuses the ecu because it alters map, fuel and timing. You don't need to do anything to the ecu and create a lot of power. You however must know what the fuel ratios are and duty cycles are at stock trim because when you add air and fuel, sure the map/maf sensor readings are going to rise, but the ecu will ignore the high maf/map readings because the o2 sensor readings are within spec calculations. The ECU sees that there is more air, but it will not tell you that there is a problem because the fuel ratio is OK.

Havig a constant open loop/closed loop condition will tell the ecu that there is a problem and the recent ecu's have a capability of reducing the tps level by half, and retarding the timing so all you get is 1/2 throttle and 1/4 of the power. That is the design of the modern ecu. It sees a problem and is programmed to limit power to prevent damage because the stupid owner decides to **** with the sensor readings.

Now since my setup is different (dead MAP/ no O2 sensor) I get 143 hp on a good 11.9:1 A/F ratio. with a 16:1 (way lean) I get 130 all on 5psi...so assuming it all has similar ratios. 1 psi gives you 10 hp. 5 psi gives 50+ over stock so 10 psi should give you 185-195 whp...with good a/f ratios.
Your A/F is too low. It should be between 12 and 12.8. Ideally, 12.3-12.6 are optimal for power. Too much fuel reduces power, so does too little fuel. It is also hard on the catalyst as well (which is illegal not to have in all 50 states). My beta 2 at stock trim has 138 hp at the crank. With 5 psi with 12.6 a/f, the power at the flywheel is 234 hp. That is using the HD ecu only with added fuel through larger injectors and fuel pump.
 

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Well there you go...Your running a Beta. Granted they are very similar but the problems I kept getting were because of the damn O2. I had the larger injectors and my a/f was at an 11.8-11.9 so NO I wasnt running lean...I am now because my car cant get anywhere with out dumping fuel while ruiseing...I get a 15 mpg ratio with just 290cc injectors. So I dissconected the O2 to allow for the boost because it just would not work any other way. I had everything as it was just changed the injectors and I still got hessitation and bogging... I dissconect the O2 sensor and the bogging and hesitation went away and I gain 20 hp...SO it really depends On the car I guess. Your Beta reasponds different to boost than my Alpha...Also the AFC was there to lean it out in the low end so i wouldnt DUMP too much fuel while I was driving to the store. It didnt really work...leaned it out a bit but 50% of the 290cc injectors was still too much over the stock 130cc.

I'm not denying what you are saying and saying your wrong just stating what I did and how its worked. Besdies al the guy really cares about is how much power...and until today i wouldnt say more than 210 on the Alpha but with forged internals you can get as much as 300+hp on the Alpha and prolly a lot more on the beta...so either way its a solid cast engine block...give its internals the same build and you can take it as much as you think is enough. I personaly wouldnt go past 250 in an Accent no matter what engine I'm using. 200 is enough to smoke tires all through 1st, 2nd, and maybe 3rd...
 

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hay i'm getting 133whp and 133tq with supercharger only 3.5psi hahaha
it is only because my superhcarger is sucking throw 1 3/4 size pipe once that
is changed i should be getting more air then will on dyno for another tunning
 

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Hey im in Australia, and running the 1.6L Alpha motor DOHC...

Aries forged pistons and lightened rods
700 x 350 front mount
58mm Throttle body
T28 Ball bearing high flow turbo, T03 front housing
2.5 inch cooler piping
3 inch mandrel bent exhaust turbo back
32mm external wastegate
Plumb back BOV
Nitrided crankshaft
Hi compresion head gasket
Custom turbo manifold
EMS Stinger ECU
AEM Ignition Discharge Module
75HP Wet Nitrous Oxide System

22PSI BOOST!!! and revs out to 7250RPM

208.8HP at the wheels...
1)very bad tune at the moment
2)needs new spark plugs
3)needs new leads
4)needs injectors cleaned
5)no nitrous on that dyno run

300HP at the wheels when its all sorted out
about 345HP at the wheels with the nitrous setup

Adding CRYo2 intercooler sprayer chamber and sprayer bar
about 360HP at the wheels

Cheers Ryan
 

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Thats fast...with 250 whp...the LC2 has the same power to wieght ratio as a Ferarri 350. 300 whp is WAY TOO MUCH for such a little car..lol
 

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Im aiming for the low 10 second passes!!! Possibly going to twin turbo it soon... HeHe and resin fill/stiffen bottom of block.

Cheers Ryan
 

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fintile when you say dead map sensor do you mean unplugged or did you do something to it?
I made 150.1 whp on 5psi 176tq
on 7psi no guessing 170 ish whp
want to run 9psi hoping to come close to 200whp
 
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