Broken Gasket...

1573 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by ^scythe^, Nov 11, 2006

fintile

Discussion Starter · Oct 9, 2006

Hey ever since i got my headers i've noticed this odd fartting noise comming from the engine bay...turns out is the gasket between the header and exhaust pipe...it's either not working or broken...anyway I've tightened up the header bolts really tight to a point where it's impossable to get them off again with out cutting. Does anyone know of a way to stop the exhaust gasses from leaking out from there? Any sorta sealant that i can use?

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

attist178

· #2 · Oct 9, 2006

A new gasket...

These new smileys suck.

95_Accent_GSI

· #3 · Oct 9, 2006

Weld it!...lol

fintile

Discussion Starter · #4 · Oct 11, 2006

Last resort...

that would be my last resort... welding that is. Is there any product or something that i could use? Looking for something to plug the hole and resist the heat.

J0eFr0

· #5 · Oct 11, 2006

JB Weld and some duct tape lol (don't really use that...)

95_Accent_GSI

· #6 · Oct 11, 2006

^^LOL...I was just about to say JB weld

fintile

Discussion Starter · #7 · Oct 11, 2006

JB Weld?

95_Accent_GSI said:
^^LOL...I was just about to say JB weld

Would it hold up to the heat?....I'll go ahead and try that.

bh206

· #8 · Oct 11, 2006

are you sure it's not just back-fire? (un-burnt fuel being dumped into the headers).

if it is your gasket.. get a new one. overtightening isn't good.

Easy_Mods

· #9 · Oct 11, 2006

It could be that your header are not sitting right on the head maybe try taking them off and reseting them but MAKE sure to tighting the nuts from the outside in or it may not sit right.

If that don't work buy a new car...lol

fintile

Discussion Starter · #10 · Oct 12, 2006

.....uggggh

yes i over tightened. i didn't MEAN too I know it's bad. Heaers fit better than the stock manifold, nothing wrong with that. Backfire is only when you not accelerating...the gurggle i'm talking about is WHEN i accelerate at a low rpm (say i start off in 2nd...or switch from 1st to 2nd at 3k rpm. It's more complicated when typing it...if you drove it you'll all know what I'm talking about. Get a new car? I'm not even gonna go there.....
I'm going to try the JB weld...I just applied it. i'll check it in the morning...

fintile

Discussion Starter · #11 · Oct 15, 2006

all good...

I used this exahsut / muffler repair wrap. Works just fine. I waxs able to hiot the freeway and not worry about it comming apart. It's great stuff, first you laydown this layer of high temp tape that comes with it...then you wrap it with this wrap...kinda like paper mache. AS you drive the heat makes it hard and then it seals itself. Anyway thanks for the help guys, this will hold it off a bit more till i can get the whole gasket replaced.

fintile

Discussion Starter · #12 · Oct 21, 2006

blah..

Ok..well that didn't work after all. Yesterday I noticed a bad smell....it burned. Anyway...NOW it shoiuld be fixed. I doubled up on the gaskets and put on some new bolts and it covers just fine...for now.

Marc Bennett

· #13 · Nov 8, 2006

Overtightening of any gasket causes the gasket to split. Two surfaces (as smooth as they seem) have an uneven surface. The reason your gasket didnt work the first time was, 1, you didnt prepare the surface (Both headers and mating surface) good enough, 2, you didnt tighten it to specs (Find the right torque specs, undertightening is as bad as overtightening), or 3, wrong gasket. Your using a double gasket setup (not wise) but theres a chance it might work but its probably not going to last, if you get a leak in the future, clean the mating surface as much as you can, clean the mating surfaces with 100% Alcohol (if you touch the surface with your fingers, corrosion will take place and the gasket wont stick) and hope for the best, but usually before you install some headers, you need to grind the "adapter plate" (or web) flat, like doing the heads before an install to make the surface as even as possible.

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^scythe^

· #14 · Nov 9, 2006

What temps does the IM get to?

At my work they have this really good silicone gaskit Made by loctite...
But it can only take so much heat...
I'll check the specs on it tomorrow if i remember...

Also the companie that i work for manufactures an insulating tape by the name of VapourStop...
Looks like its a possibility for CAI/SRI piping insulation ...

Cheers
^scythe^

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fintile

Discussion Starter · #15 · Nov 9, 2006

^scythe^ said:
What temps does the IM get to?

At my work they have this really good silicone gaskit Made by loctite...
But it can only take so much heat...
I'll check the specs on it tomorrow if i remember...

Also the companie that i work for manufactures an insulating tape by the name of VapourStop...
Looks like its a possibility for CAI/SRI piping insulation ...

Cheers
^scythe^

I'm not sure the temp. no more than 120 F I would think...IF that. Does the gasket fit on an Accent engine at all? Could it made to?

^scythe^

· #16 · Nov 11, 2006

Ah well taht easy then...

This loctite product takes 260*C+ (approx 500*F)
Its called loctite blue maxx flange sealant...
We use it at work to seal the hot oils pumps that at at about 200-250*C

"
LOCTITE
587
BLUE MAXX™
SILICONE
®

Sensor-safe, oxime cure RTV silicone sealant.
No-corrosive, low odour, low volatile.
Outstanding hot oil resistance.
Superior flexibility.
Temp. range -70°C to +260°C.
Fills gaps to 6mm (0.250”).

Use to replace or dress precut gaskets and seals.
Sensor safe for use in modern automotive applications.
Ideal for oil pans, rocker covers, timing covers, etc.
Use where relative movement causes failure in conventional
gaskets.
Not suitable for use in contact with petroleum fuels.
"

There ya go...

Cheers
^scythe^

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