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Clutch Install: By the Wytch

Level of Difficulty: Moderately Hard

Tools needed:
10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm 24mm and 32mm sockets
17mm 12 point (if you are going to take off the flywheel)
Ratchets to match
Breaker Bar
Pry Bar
Flat head screw driver (semi large)
Clutch Alignment tool (ask for a 94 Eclipse 1.8ltre.. they will have it 7/8” 20 spline)
Impact wrench
Impact ratchet
Two jacks
Two jack stands
Two caulk blocks.
Torque wrench. (Adjustable from 14lbs to 160lbs I had two)
Service Manual (for torque specs)
Something to organize stuff with.. boxes baggies something. Trust me itll save you time

Stuff Needed:
Brake Fluid
High Temp Grease
Trans Fluid 75w90 GL4 3 quarts
Clutch Disk
Pressure Plate
Throw Out Bearing (DO NOT ATTACH IT TO THE PP)
Atleast on friend dumb enough to help with this.

Additional Recommended:
Axle Seals (1.50 each)
New or machined flywheel or have it machined.

Step 1: Easy stuff
Remove the intake and battery (along with the tray) if you cant do this stop here. Once those two are cleared out removed the slave cylinder. This is pretty easy, three bolts hold it with one clip/pin thing attached to the arm. Just push the line back onto the fender. If you don’t want to make a mess find a rubber/plastic hose and bleed all the fluid out. I just put a rag under the banjo fitting and unbolted it. Once that is cleared out unbolt the arm that attaches to the clutch fork (the thing attacked to the slave cyl. That has one bolt holding it down). Its keyed so don’t worry about its orientation. IF YOU DON’T DO THIS YOU WILL NOT GET THE TRANS TO SEPARATE FROM THE ENGINE!!!.. Next take the shift cables off. Both of them are held on by small clips. Careful there are a lot of bushings that come off once you release them. I think the bracket is held on with two bolts. Remove those and push all of it to the backside of the engine. Since your there locate the two bolts holding the starter on and remove them. They both go thru the trans side of the bell housing and into the starter. Once its free push it back as well. There are two plugs going into the trans, remove them.

Step 2: Getting the Axles Out
Now that all the small stuff is cleared out its time to get the car in the air. Jack up the car and install jack stands in the proper location just under the door on that lip. Put the blocks behind the rear tires and remove both front tires. This is a good time to drain the trans fluid. It’s a large gold colored bolt on the very bottom of the trans. MAKE SURE TO CHECK TORQUE SPECS WHEN REINSTALLING. You don’t want to over torque and damage that thing. Now that its got no fluid and the drain bolt is back in remove the two large castle nuts on each side. They are freaking huge, 32mm, and are on tight. First remove the cotter pin. One of mine was a bitch the other slide right out. Your going to need someone to stand on the brakes and have a large breaker bar/large 32mm wrench being beaten on with a hammer or impact to get it to come off. I recommend doing both sides before disassembling any further because the brakes help with this. Now that they are both off start with one side or the other. Take off the brake caliper (just the upper portion the bracket can stay) hang the caliper using a bungie cord or something on the coil. Now remove the two large bolts mounting the knuckle to the coil. I recommend using the impact to help you out here. Now have that friend who was holding the brakes help you pull the axle out of the knuckle as you lay the rotor over. The book says to release the tie rod during this step I did not. Now one of you go under the car with that flat head. Some say to yank on the axle but my book says don’t because it can damage the cv joint. I had my friend put a small amount of pulling pressure as I worked the other side of the axle (on the diff) with the screw driver. One side was a bitch the other slide right off. If you do not have axle seals ONLY PUSH THE SCREW DRIVER IN 7mm MAX. If not you will damage the seals. I damaged the one that was giving me problems coming out but I had the seals handy. You want to put that screw driver in between the large (3-4inchs wide) metal cylinder on the axle and the diff. LEAVE THE BOOTS ALONE and take care to not damage them as they come out. Now go to the other side and do the same thing. The passenger side is harder to separate the axle from the knuckle. I assume its because of the toothed ring for the speedo. BTW I took the two guides for that line off to give it more room to play. Now put those expensive basturds in a safe place. Getting nervous yet?

Step 3: Unmounting.
Again go under the car but this time you gonna need a lot of tools. Here is how I started the removal of the trans. I removed all the lower bell housing bolts first 4 (? Or 3?) are obvious. There are two 10mm that go straight up. I then removed the rear roll stop. Remove the mount AND the bracket on the trans.. I didn’t do this at first and had to later for room to move it around. Nothing special here but some of the bolts may need the impacts help to get them to come off. Then get the front roll stop. Two bolts are easier to get from the top (near the radiator). The engine will stay up with the roll stops off!!. Now that everything below is free push the jacks (I put the larger of the two under the engine with a block of wood) under the car. I had one to help support the trans and I don’t know if it needed it. It seemed to help control the trans as we slide it, again with the block of wood. Now that the engine is supported move under the hood again. (During the time I was under the car I had someone take the splash guard off of the drivers side, two bolts going up vertical hold it on, 10mm) I removed the drive side engine mount next. The bolts holding the mount are hidden behind two plugs in the wheel well. Put a rag or something in the socket when you take them out. I lost one in the fender, upps, but had another bolt handy so it wasn’t that big of a deal. Now that the mount is free take the bracket off of the trans here as well. 3 bolts, one is hidden under the rubber portion of the mount. At this point I unscrewed (using the impact) the drivers side subframe a few turns. This gave me about an inch more room.

Step 4: Separation
The trans is almost free. At this point be careful because the engine/trans can move back and forth easy. You have three bell housing bolts going from trans to engine to remove and two (one near the radiator and one near the firewall) going from engine to trans. The one near the firewall is a PITA. I broke it loose after getting really pissed off. Now the trans is loose. There may be one or two bolts I am not remembering just look around, that’s what I had to do. Now get the larger of you and your buddy to lean down and pull back on the trans. After a few light shakes my slide right off. With a little help from the jack we slide it back into the fender. Once more of it was on the fender we moved the jack. Too really get some room rotate the trans (counter clockwise from the drivers fender) and get the diff up on the frame. This rotation will also allow for that black plug to slide under the fender. No need for the jack it sits there just fine, I had one under it because I’m paranoid. Now you can see you’re burnt up stock clutch. I took this time to clean out the bell housing area with a rag and mild degreaser. Also I greased the crap out of the clutch fork because I hated that squeaking noise it was making.

Step 5: Clutch Removable/Install
Now its time to get that crap pressure plate out. Take your clutch alignment tool and put it in there unless you want to just drop the clutch on the ground. Remove the bolts that ring the pressure plate in a star pattern if possible to make it easier to take off. I did this with the help of someone under the car. You will need a pry bar against the ring gear to stop it from turning. After all the bolts are removed its still hard to get the pressure plate off thanks to the dowel pins on the flywheel. A flat head screw driver may help you out here. The clutch will come with it if you have the alignment tool in it. Now finagle that thing out. Now you can see your hot spot marked up flywheel. Those 17mm 12 point bolts are installed. If you can get your impact in there DO IT. Those things are in there good. It took many many hits with the impact to get them to start turning. The flywheel didn’t try to turn on me when I used the impact. No impact good luck getting them off. Remove that and when the last bolt comes free have a hand on it. Don’t drop the flywheel. Now either take it in for machining or open your new flywheel. Don’t care to do crap with the flywheel then skip the last few steps. It might be a good idea to use new flywheel bolts. I didn’t and the book doesn’t say to but they are under a lot of stress. Now get that torque wrench ready it takes a lot for those bolts. Have someone hold the flywheel from under the car and start a few of the bolts. Have that same person or whoever get a socket and hold the crank pulley bolt. Now get that 17mm and an extension on your torque wrench and start pattern them on (ref. Manual for specs). Now the fun part. Getting the clutch and pressure plate back on the flywheel. I did it this way, first I took the disc and used a paint brush to cover all the splines of the clutch in high temp grease. You don’t want to overdo it and have grease get on the friction surface, that would suck. Also clean the input shaft and if any grubby hands have touched the flywheel hit it with some brake cleaner. Now take the clutch and have someone hold it from under the car. Now install the alignment tool. Then put the pressure plate over the tool. I had a hell of a time with my ACT getting it on the damn dowel pins. Infact I had to take a file to the holes to remove that yellow paint. Make sure you put the dowels in the right holes. If it was really easy to slide on your wrong. Now install a few bolts after confirming the clutch is aligned right. Again with the torque wrench and the start pattern. Now the clutch and pressure plate are in its time to start putting it back together. DO NOT INSTALL THE TOB ON THE PRESSURE PLATE!!!. Take and grease the TOBs contact points and a light coat in the plastic sleeve. INSTALL THE TOB IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION (sleeve pointing towards the PP and not the trans) ON THE CLUTCH FORK.

Step 6: The stab…
We got this on the second try and this is how I did it. Enlist your biggest buddy. Have him get the trans off the frame and rotated correctly. Ref. Two pin things on either side of the trans. They will show you its going in correctly. Slide the trans back towards the engine. I had some cables in the way and just used zip ties to hold them out of the way. We used the jack to help a little with supporting it. If you get the trans over the PP but it wont move any further back it up enough to get someone’s hand in it and turn the input shaft just a little.. very little. Push again. Once its lined up it’ll slide right up to the motor. Now get one of the bolts in the top of the bell housing and correct the jacks position to make sure it stays. Now you can get all the upper bolts back in and tighten to proper torque. Reinstall the slave cyl arm to the clutch fork and push it towards the firewall. If you don’t hear a click something isn’t right. I had to push a few times to get it. This is the TOB snapping into the PP. Reinstall the drivers side mount. Then reverse the order of dismounting. The only things to note are the following when its going back together.

Step 7 Reinstalling everything:
Make sure to use proper torque and the right bolts
Make sure when you slide the axles back in to have the C clips opening facing DOWN.
When reinstalling the brakes use the pads on the side they came off of and clean them with some cleaner because they will be nasty
Make sure to bleed the clutch hydro system
And don’t forget to put oil in the trans.

Start it up in neutral and let it warm up
I rolled backwards a few feet and then went forward a few feet and listened for weird noises.
Test drive time
Give it about 500miles city driving before really pushing it. Enjoy!
Now go take some stupid pics holding the old the old clutch like some mCspazatron WWF tards.

Sorry about the lack of Pictures it would have taken a few years to get enough to make all of this make since. If you cant follow this you might want to pay someone or have someone with good wrenching skills present before attempting this. Its really not that hard but it would be easy to screw something up. Trust me im still a little neverous something is gonna break and ive got 600 miles on it.

If someone sees a better way of doing something or a better tip in general feel free to add. This was my first time doing it and I may have done something the hard way/forgotten something due to the fact its been a few days since I actually turned the wrenchs. :ermm:
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