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Does anybody know if there is a chip for a
2000 Hyundai Tiburon, I've got the big bore
throttle, but I need the chip to bring it alive.<img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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Look into buying an S-AFC. This will allow you to fine tune your air/fuel ratio.

--------------------------------------------
I drive a slow car.
0 to 60 in 11 seconds (look out!)
 

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Agreed.

I have one of the very few PowerChip ECU's to see American shores. They advance the timing to take advantage of much higher octane fuels, as well as optimizing the fuel map to suit my mods -- or at least, that was the story.

Here's what I actually found:

Because the chip was built in Australia, it's tuned for THEIR high-octane fuels. In Australia, you can find 104 octane at the pump. Here in Albuquerque NM, you can find 94 octane only at two gas stations in the entire city. Luckily for me, altitude itself serves as an anti-detonant, but my car still pings during throttle transitions from regular driving to WOT.

Along with the timing issues, their "guesstimate" at how much fuel to change was way off. I run lean during normal driving, and I run WAY too rich at WOT. The car actually blows black fuel smoke out the tailpipe if I leave the ECU to make the fuel decisions.

The other problem with upgraded ECU's is with future upgrades. The ECU manufacturer can guess (and maybe get it mostly right) at how much fuel and ignition timing to change for your current setup, but it's right back out of whack if you install yet another part.

Rather than spend the $400+ for the PowerChip ECU upgrade, I would have rather done it a different way. I'm still running the ECU just because I haven't replaced it's usefulness just yet, but I'm working on it with the following two contraptions:

<b>1. </b> APEXi SuperAFC: This device allows you to modify the voltage being sent by the onboard MAF sensor. Changing the reported voltage fools the ECU into thinking that more or less air is coming into the motor, and thus you have the ability to change the fuel delivery at eight user-defined RPM points across low and high throttle positions. The S-AFC boasts the ability to raise or lower the voltage by 50%, which can (depending on the ECU) raise or lower fuel accordingly. With our current fuel system, the -50% works, but any more than about +25% will max out the injector pulsewidth and you have simply reached the limit of how much fuel the stock injectors can flow. The S-AFC is a great device for adding much larger injectors, and then trimming the fuel delivery down to what you actually need.

<b>2. </b> APEXi SuperITC: This device intercepts the cam angle sensor output, and allows you to change ignition timing at five user-defined RPM points by +/- 15 degrees across low and high throttle positions. It fools the ECU into thinking the cam angle sensor is registering earlier or later, resulting in advanced or retarded timing accordingly. This is perfect for getting your timing just right for cars with modest N/A modifications, or any forced induction system.

Nitrous doesn't really benefit from either of these, because nitrous isn't an "Always On" modification.

These two components I outlined soak up the bulk of what an aftermarket ECU tries to accomplish. The major exception is, both devices can be infinitely tuned independantly of eachother and on-the-fly for whatever you've done to the car. ECU's on the contrary cannot be modified without being sent back to the manufacturer and re-burned.

Both devices require a well qualified tuner to manage; if you adjust them incorrectly, you can cause physical damage to the motor. Unless you really know what you're doing, you should mess with either one of them once they're tuned by a qualified technician.

General costs are ~$330 for the S-AFC unit, and ~$270 for the S-ITC unit.

-Red-
 

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Great read...thx! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

JGraham9382
2001 Alpine White Hyundai Tiburon

http://www.wtfisup.com/tiburon/

...More hip than a fat chick...
 

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These devices must be specially ordered; I purchased mine from Under Pressure Racing Development -- unfortunately they aren't doing business any more.<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>

You can sometimes get into a groupbuy or something on the web, it's usually less expensive that way as well.

Don't forget, you will have to have these installed by someone who's fluent with electrical wiring, and tuned by a knowledgable tuner on a dyno roller.

-Red-
 

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Brainy guys are coming from Korea to establish engineer company near Irvine before next Feb. 2002. As soon as they arrive here next month from Korea, I may be able to supply E.C.U. chip from here.

I took my E.C.U. box to Korea for my chip tuning. Rev. 8,000rpm and gain overall performance. I am just waiting for them to clear my check light appear since I chip it.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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Sunoco has 100 Octain racing Fuel which cost like $4 per gallon. I once filled it up with 100 octain when I bought the car. they gave me a slip to go fill it up and i just put 100 octain. cost $40 some bucks....
and there is also 104 fuel additive which boost the octain rating...

I love my Tib
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Sunoco has 100 Octain racing Fuel which cost like $4 per gallon. I once filled it up with 100 octain when I bought the car. they gave me a slip to go fill it up and i just put 100 octain. cost $40 some bucks....
and there is also 104 fuel additive which boost the octain rating...

I love my Tib
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

Yeah, those race fuel is good for race cars. For street, what is the point to burn Sunoco?
If you go to any race track, there is race fuel for sale 100 or 104 or more. I don't know if you need license to purchase it tough. I had international C lincense, but I did not renew it, cause it cost $500/yr.
 

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Since we're on the fuel topic. I have a 2k1 Tib and when I bought it, the dealer told me to use like an 83 octane fuel or whatever the lowest octane is, and I hear you guys talking bout using 100 and up wouldn't the high octane rating affect the O2 sensor, and would it harm the engine at all<img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>

I feed my Shark honda's for breakfast!!
 

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I know for one thing.

Once the engine is abused by better fuel like (drug), it gets same performacne using same oct. or better oct. Well, fuel price in Korea is $1/liter and each gallon is 3.8liter.
Sometimes we get a fake or homemade gas without knowing it traveling country side. ROD MILLEN taught us how to make it long time ago for race car, but I don't remember anymore.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Fake gas??? This can't be good.

<img src="http://www.coreyandjayshow.com/pee.gif" border=0><img src="http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red_GT/1.gif" border=0>
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

Since high performance cars are more sensitive, BMW and Porsche shows immediate knocking problem during summer when Army or Navy start to replace their gas every year.

Fake gas. I think it was mix with Benzel, methanol, alcohol etc. NO need to care unless you live in the country where gas tax is $0.80/liter. Consumer tax, used road tax, speical tax munbojumbo. Government raised the tax in order to reduce consumer to buy a car. I know a kid owns 93 Mazda RX-7 with fully modify in Korea going 2km/liter. 1 mile = 1.6km
 
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