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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I guess its gonna be a while till I see the KORE CAI ready for my Elantra, so I've been thinking about a racing pulley again.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>How about some feed peoples? Any new thoughts or experiences, pro or con, on the subject? I was looking at Unorthodox
racing pulleys a while back, but wondered if they would be blamed for
a repair if something went wrong.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/uhh.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> Recommendations?


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I have the UR crank pulley for my 2000 tib, It helps get more hp back to the wheels. It works wiht other mods you have done.
Make sure it is put on correctly, A piece under the engine has to be removed in order to line it up. Also, you have to get two new belts, Check the Speedstate website and you will see what I mean! I did not get any slack from my Dealership, however, it depends on the dealership. In my opnion, and many other, is that it is not an interanl engine mod, it is simply a lighter part. when you do change it, feel the weight of the UR piece, and after the stock pulley is taken off, feel the weight difference. pretty dramatic, ..I would say about 10 lbs. It gives power back to the wheels, the hp the old heavy one took away!
Hope this helps.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Apex springs,BSA rims,Toyo tires,AOS intake, UR Crank Pulley, grape shooter, OBX Fr strut bar, Shark clear corners, APC gauges. KORE wires,.. blah,.. blah, blah, kICKER 12" AND AMP.
Body kit soon, and Elantra GT CAM.
 

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Don't do the underdrive pulley. I will have a new damper assembly in a little over a month available, it won't be underdrive, but it will be a true friction damper for dampening crank excitations over a wide RPM spectrum. Underdrives don't usually work out to well to well on the street. One your loosing what dampening ability that stock unit has, it isn't much, but it is only there to help shift or somewhat dampen a resonant frequency.


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I don't think that most well made 4 cylinder engines need a lot of harmonic dampening, as the reason they have this balancing done is to make up for the cheap heavy cast iron piece. However, I do believe that bigger, heavier engines like 6's and 8's need some balancing, as the length of the crank shaft is longer and heavier. Also, cheaper older engines in the 4 cylinder category need some type of balancing.
Just my 2cents! I did look into thesi mod as I had heard some good and bad feedback. I saw an article last year in PERFORMANCE AUTO and Sound from editor I believe,.. I am just regurgitating what he has said,..
Maurice<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Apex springs,BSA rims,Toyo tires,AOS intake, UR Crank Pulley, grape shooter, OBX Fr strut bar, Shark clear corners, APC gauges. KORE wires,.. blah,.. blah, blah, kICKER 12" AND AMP.
Body kit soon, and Elantra GT CAM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. I'm not sure what exactly the damper assembly does that would take the place of a racing pulley...but I'm willing to learn. What does a damper assembly cost and how much is involved to install? Still might get the racing pulley, don't think my dealer would have a prob with it. Anybody got one on their Elantra? <img src=/images/forums/snitz/uhh.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> If so, which
one, and how do ya like it? TIA.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry for posting over myself...follow up<img src=/images/forums/snitz/tongue.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>I am very close to ordering the UR Street crank pulley, they are discounted 10% till February 15th, so now would be a good time. I know I will need to buy some accessory belts, but not sure if UR carries them or how much they would be. If you have any additional advice or comments please fire away now, I may order tommorrow.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> TIA to everyone


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Speedstate website has the number of the Belts needed to be replaced, Afgter driving it for a bit,..you may notice a slight squeal from tehh belts as they loosen up a bit, then just have the dealer or mechanic tighten it up?
I believ they recommend (SPeedstate) teh "Gates" belts.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Apex springs,BSA rims,Toyo tires,AOS intake, UR Crank Pulley, grape shooter, OBX Fr strut bar, Shark clear corners, APC gauges. KORE wires,.. blah,.. blah, blah, kICKER 12" AND AMP.
Body kit soon, and Elantra GT CAM.
 

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I just read an install into a BMW of some underdrive pullieS. they make everything else spin slower by enlarging the accessory pullies. The magazine boys supposedly did the dynos before and after, and showed some graphs for something like 4HP.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Maurice, appreciate the imput<img src=/images/forums/snitz/approve.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> I'll ask the peeps at Unorthodox if they have accessory belts (Gates) or at least the part numbers so I can pick em up elsewhere. Have you noticed your engine heating up quicker after adding pulleys? Did you keep your factory water pump? <img src=/images/forums/snitz/uhh.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmmmmmm. If I had a BMW I don't think I'd be worried about small performance mods<img src=/images/forums/snitz/uhh.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> But I guess if depends on the model. I just think that with a little tweaking my Elantra can get into the 15's ...so, racing pulley and (hopefully) CAI here I come.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


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It only underdrives by about 10% and will not case your vehcile to overheat,.. it will not underdrive you r alternator to teh point where you r battery dies!! All it really does is take off weight,. I run a 500 watt amp,and a 12inch sub after I put the pulley on,and no problems what so ever.
Hope this helps


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Apex springs,BSA rims,Toyo tires,AOS intake, UR Crank Pulley, grape shooter, OBX Fr strut bar, Shark clear corners, APC gauges. KORE wires,.. blah,.. blah, blah, kICKER 12" AND AMP.
Body kit soon, and Elantra GT CAM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It helps. I don't have money to burn so I'm trying to choose my mods carefully. I need, and appreciate all the info I can get...Thannnnk
Yooooooo! <img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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Well first off about power pulleys, every component on a engine has a natural frequency, that has to be shifted or dampened in some form. The components mostly affected by natural frequencies are valve springs, the crank and component hung off of the engine. Four cylinder combustion engines normally do not require a true torsional damper due to the fact of the crank is short and stiff for the displacement in which it is being used for. The forces acting upon the crank are at a minimum, because of it light rotation assembly and minute combustion pressures. The elastomer material sandwiched between the pulley and the hub is for some harmonic dampening of the crank and reducing belt noise caused by accessories.

Normally elastomer dampers are used to shift the natural frequency of the crank or component or dampen a specific frequency. The natural frequency of a crank is dependant upon what components are attached to it. The oem damper is fine, if you change piston, rods, flywheel or even a pulley, you shift that natural frequency. Making that oem damper less effective. Elastomer dampers dampen frequency, friction dampers dampen amplitude. When people intall light pulleys and flywheels, you have shifted that natural frequency higher, you have torsionally stiffened the cranks, due to the decrease in mass.

The one thing you have to watch for is did you shift that natural frequency into a firing frequency. If you shift that crank natural frequency into a firing frequency, in your normalnoperating range the outcome could potentially lead to crank torsion failure.

You can also shift firing frequecy into the crank natural frequecy by simply changing compression, increasing cylinder pressure and combustion chamber design. The increase in cylinder pressure can lead to increased torsional amplitudes.

The damper that I am having built is for NA and forced induction engines. I feel that eny engine can benefit from increased torsional dampening. There has quite a few times that i have seen a reduction in engine noise, by fitting a correct damper for the application for which the engine is being used for. The damper isn't cheap, I am paying more than what the damper will sale for, just for machine tooling setup and development. The damper will be a little less than $400.00.


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I gained 8 wheel HP with an underdriven crank and an overdriven alternator (to bring it back to stock rpm's). BTW, this in on my T/A, not my Elantra. The underdrive pulley on my T/A actually goes between the stock pulley/damper and the crank hub, so it actually <i>adds</i> rotational mass to my crank. It's too bad FWD cars don't have enough room between the the crank and inner fender to use this "sandwich" setup. Then you could retain the damper <i>and</i> underdrive your accessories.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Later,
Aaron Britt
Events Coordinator, Las Vegas F-body Assoc.
'97 Trans-Am
'96 Elantra GLS
"The shortest distance between two points is a straight line........but, it's not as much fun."
<img src="http://www.speedcraving.com/i8acobra/flag.gif">
 
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