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basically disconnect the hose going from the pcv valve, its in the middle rear of the valve cover, right below the intake manifold. you will see a small hose running out of it. you will need probably about a foot of 3/8 inch hose, i used fuel hose for mine, 2 1/4 threaded - 3/8 barbed fittings and a inline moisture seperator for an air compressor. you will also need 2 small hose clamps, 1 to tighten the hose onto the pcv valve, and the other may be needed for the inlet side of the catch can.

now the gas flows out of the pcv and into the intake, so if the moisture separator has an arrow on it, it needs to point in the same direction as the gas flow. then either trim the hose and put it close to the engine, or mount it wherever you want.

ive had mine for a couple of months and there is a bit of oil in it, thats just driving around town, so i know they work
 

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I realize this is an old thread, but since no one has explained what the little oil going though your intake does, here it goes... The manufacturer puts that little hose there so that the oil going in through the intake will lubricate the cylinder walls, hence making it easier for the piston rings to travel up and down the cylinder sleeves (no metal to metal, as the oil forms a "cushion" between the piston ring edges and the sleeve). This takes away a little bit of hp from your car because the oil makes it a little harder for combustion to take place (maybe 1 to 4 hp max). BUT, it makes your engine last longer. The manufacturer's main concern when developing an engine for the public is reliability and durability (after all, most engines out there today must last over 100K miles with just regular maintenance), so that's the only reason for that oil going back to the intake. If you don't really care about your engine wearing earlier in order to gain a couple hp, then this mod is for you. For N/A cars, if you're not getting any oil in the separator at all, try putting the separator a little lower in the engine bay, preferably lower than the intake fitting it attaches to. Since a N/A engine doesn't produce as much blow-by as a turbo car, this will help the oil move into the separator. Turbo'd cars produce more pressure so the oil will be forced into the separator easily, even if it sits higher. Hope this helps. ;):

[Edited by 03SharkGT on Mar 31, 2006 6:07 PM]
 

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Originally posted by 2005centGT
[body]
so this will void a warrenty i take it
[/body]
Depends on your stealership. Mine didnt care (when I had my 03 Accent GT) but who knows with others. They just looked at it.. were like "what ever".

W/ my SRT4 my oil catch helps keep a buttload of oil out of the intercooler and other places I dont need oil to be built up in.
 

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I actually found this Custom oil filter at the autozone. It is the same one Vamp used for his accent. I would more rather use it on a beta swap or a turbo'd engine. The 1.6 won't produce enough power in order to get the canister full. I had very little oil in my Intake manifold, so i wouldn't recommend unless A) you are turbo, whether its 1.3, 1.5 or 1.6, or B) you have cams, BBTB, port and polish intake, basically every type of N/A mod for your 1.3, 1.5, 1.6 engine. But if you just have intake/ exhaust/ headers, that won't be enough to make that much oil get in. I have one set aside for my future set up. I love the custom jobs too.
 

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Originally posted by 03SharkGT
[body]
I realize this is an old thread, but since no one has explained what the little oil going though your intake does, here it goes... The manufacturer puts that little hose there so that the oil going in through the intake will lubricate the cylinder walls, hence making it easier for the piston rings to travel up and down the cylinder sleeves (no metal to metal, as the oil forms a "cushion" between the piston ring edges and the sleeve). This takes away a little bit of hp from your car because the oil makes it a little harder for combustion to take place (maybe 1 to 4 hp max). BUT, it makes your engine last longer. The manufacturer's main concern when developing an engine for the public is reliability and durability (after all, most engines out there today must last over 100K miles with just regular maintenance), so that's the only reason for that oil going back to the intake. If you don't really care about your engine wearing earlier in order to gain a couple hp, then this mod is for you. For N/A cars, if you're not getting any oil in the separator at all, try putting the separator a little lower in the engine bay, preferably lower than the intake fitting it attaches to. Since a N/A engine doesn't produce as much blow-by as a turbo car, this will help the oil move into the separator. Turbo'd cars produce more pressure so the oil will be forced into the separator easily, even if it sits higher. Hope this helps. ;):

[Edited by 03SharkGT on Mar 31, 2006 6:07 PM]
[/body]
Hmmmm.... Hyundai must put in perfect piston rings that seal 100% and do not alow any blowby. I guess i will have to put some 2 stoke oil so i can keep the pistons from frying. :paranoid:
 

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These are, I'm assuming, the only supplies needed for this mod?

1/4 In. Air Compressor Filter

Shown: HUSKY 1/4 In. Air Compressor Filter, Model HDA70400AV
Price:$11.97 @ Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com
Sorry, no direct linking. Search model #

Hose hardware

Shown: HUSKY 1/4" Male Hose End, Model HDA40200AV
Price: $2.94 ea. @ Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com
Sorry, no direct linking. Search model #

Loctite

http://images.lowes.com/product/007934/007934024200.jpg

Shown: Loctite® Blue Threadlocker
Price: $5.97 @ Lowes
Blue Threadlocker






And I'd assume new tubing as well. Would 1/4" Vacuum lines work?


*Edited for link repair and prices.

[Edited by Z_Spool on Jul 8, 2006 6:15 PM]
 

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correct, but I just used lock tight tape.
 

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Just buy some crank case hose from autozone. They see it at the counter you got to ask.
 

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Originally posted by ftwvampftw
[body]
NO MORE SQUEEKY NOISE!! W0000T!! Plus it seems to have more pep to the car. She seems to want to GOOOO.. Here are some pics. Temp set up until I can clean it up more. I dont know if its my imagination, but my car sounds louder *exhaust and intake*.. maybe im trippin
[/body]
what do you mean squeeky noise......? the orininal pics from the first post wont load for me......... what does this do?????????
 

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Just thought I would add up a diagram that I've made from all my lessons learned.



I made this diagram for use on the srtforums, but it works well for us.

Modifications I would suggest for the Hyundai 1.5L turbo version:

Use a large can (like this one from Greddy) for the catch can from the pcv. If you are going to autocross this car, I would even suggest you put rubber tubes inside the fitting on the car so oil can't walk up the side of the can and get pulled back in. I would also suggest you drill and tap another port in the bottom of the can and add a drain. On the autocross course, I have to empty my can every two runs. Taking it a step futher, you could even install a bung in your oil pan, so all you have to do after a race is open the valve and let the oil drain back to the motor.

For the can for the breather, I suggest you use this can (old style Greddy). Knock-offs are on ebay and just as good. You want a can where you can feed into the bottom, and have ports on the top. You'll run the breather line to the bottom of the can, and put a breather on one of the top ports (plugging the other). This allows oil to be pushed out of the breather under heavy load (normal), and when the motor goes back to vacuum, the oil is pulled back in the head.
 

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ok so some say to put it on the intake and others on the pvc, each seems to worth for different people, has anyone tried putting them on both?? would that work??

any possibility you can repost your pics?? for some reason they dont load up for me, just big red Xs
 

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Hmm I just put a Breather Filter on my PVC outlet instead of letting it continue to be connected to the intake. No catch can, just a simple breather filter. Dealer even made the remark that they said good ideal if I was driving the car at higher then normal revs, just to remember to watch for too much pressure that might allow some oil to pass the filter and dirty up the engine. Since I clean my engine on a regular basis this wasn't too much of a concern.
 

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Alright, seeing as this question was not brought up I will do it.

In a N/A engine the catch can would be inline with the PCV line corect?
-so in being there does the PCV valve need to be conected at all?
- or can it go - Valve cover > catch can > Intake
-or is it actualy Valve cover > PCV valve > catch can > Intake?


I want to do this mod (My vacuum guage Line keeps getting cloged with oil):mad:
 

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I got another question; What hose do you tap into? On my car I have two lines coming from the valve cover and going into the intake. One is the PCV line (post TB) and another line (no valve) is pre TB?
 

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well i would think that you would still use the pcv valve but i am going to do this mod and mine will include both hoses so i will post the results of doing both soon
 
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