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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought some of you might be interested in the intercooler setup I put together for my supercharged '05 Tiburon GT...

Parts used:
WAT001112 - silver radiator with 7" fan
WAT001012 - Intercooler kit (3/4" hose, clamps, and some fittings)
WAT001001 - Bosch Cobra Pump and Harness
AFC-80158 - 1.5 pint overflow tank
EAR-700111ERL - Small (passenger-side) fitting for IM
EAR-700113ERL - Large (driver-side) fitting for IM
SUM-220062 - Weld-in bungs (x2) for overflow tank

Home Depot - Hose clamps, aluminum stock, self-tapping screws

More Misc (from my workbench):
Pop rivets, teflon thread tape, split wire loom, electrical wire, various electrical crimp connections.


1) Mount the heat exchanger and fan. I drilled into the metal in front of the existing radiators with self-tapping screws to secure the bottom of the new radiator. I also fabbed up a little brace that anchors the top of the radiator to the front bumper support to make everything nice and stable.

2) Mount the intercooler pump. I drilled into the area below the driver-side headlight (there is a front bumper support in the same area) and used some bent 1.5" aluminum strip stock to make a little U-shaped support for the pump - it is hose clamped to the aluminum and basically hangs from the bumper support area. The hoses damp any vibration, and the setup is fairly solid.

This view shows the pump in place below the driver-side headlight.

3) Mount the tank. Again, I had AN10 bungs welded onto the little tank I bought - one on the passenger side, toward the top, for incoming coolant, and one on the bottom in place of one of the hose barbs that the tank had initially. The guy who did the TIG welding for me removed the other barb. The welding cost me $20. I used aluminum stock to attach the tank to the hood latch support - I also cut away a little of the material on the passenger side so the support would not touch the new radiator. If you mount the tank on the vertical hood support, make sure you leave enough room for everything. Measure twice, cut once, blah blah blah.

4) Connect all of the hoses. Here's a cheesey diagram - you get the idea. I put the pump as low as I possibly could in the setup.

5) Wire it all up. I used the fat yellow switched wire originally to power both the pump and the fan on the new radiator, but I have since added a relay. I used the same fat wire you can see the crimp connector on, along with a new ground, for the relay circuit. The relay in the very bottom left of the next picture. I used one of the always-hot ABS leads for the power source - you can run a new wire from the battery if you've got anti-lock brakes. And I added a 30-amp inline fuse holder... just in case. I also soldered all of the connections and used heat-shrink tube and electrical tape for everything past the fuse box - I want that stuff to last forever.

Remember you need power for both the intercooler pump and the fan on the new radiator - and check the polarity of the radiator fan to make sure the fan's blowing WITH the incoming air, not against it. Otherwise you'll stall the fan when you drive.

6) Fill everything up with distilled water and turn things on. You may have trouble getting the pump to prime - that's why I put mine as low in the loop as I could get it - if necessary, you can shut it off, disconnect the hoses from the intake manifold, and pour distilled water down the lines. Once you've got some water in the system, run it for a few seconds, shut it off, and add more to the tank. You'll have to do this several times to bleed all of the air out of the loop. Once you've gotten all of the air out and have no leaks, add some Water Wetter to the reservoir.

Here's the aerial view:

And here's what you wind up with when you're all finished - nothing! This is what I was striving for - with the exception of the two hoses connected to the intake manifold, the engine bay looks as clean as it did before I started.

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