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Discussion Starter #1
First off I am a licensed mechanic. Please if you do not feel comfortable with changing brakes then take it a person like myself


I have 7000kms on my 06 Accent and the OEM pads are just plain garbage for my braking needs. I like to have good initial bite with my brakes and stopping power once they are warm. After searching the net for Hawk, PBR, Axxis etc I couldnt find a company that made good aftermarket pads. Then I remembered my friend talking about these Wagner pads that seemed pretty popular with autocrossers. They are made of a semi metallic carbon ceramic material that had good intial bite and very very little fade once warmed.
So for 42$ Cdn I bought them.

Tools and supplys

3/8 ratchet, 12mm Socket
1/2 breaker bar with 21mm socket (or use stock lug remover)
1/2 ratchet with 17mm socket
Hammer and flat head screw driver
Impact screw driver or torch if needed.
1 jack and 2 jack stands
C clamp or channel locks
wire brush

Pads and Rotors
Brake cleaner
Anti Seize Compound
Caliper slider lube
Sand paper

1. Loosen lugnuts with a 21mm socket, then jack up the car and place jackstands under the front crossmember.


2. After making sure the car isnt going to fall on you, remove the wheel it should look like this


To remove the caliper bolt use a rachet and a short 12mm Socket and ratchet, lift up on the caliper you might have to pry if it doesnt come off. Slide off the caliper


should look like that.

3. Remove the lower slider, it should just pop out if it isnt siezed like 95% of the Hyundais I see. Clean the entire caliper in brake cleaner. Clean out the boot and slider and repack it with synthetic grease. I've tried alot of products and i've found super lube holds up really really well. The top slider is a pin attached to the Pad carrier. Clean it out with brake cleaner and repack.



4. Now its time to remove the pads. The pads just pretty much pop right out unless they are rusted in. If they are use a flat head screw driver to pry them out. Now that the pads are removed remove the brackets and clean them with a wire brush and sandpaper. Then brush some anti seize compound on to prevent them from getting stuck. Reinstall the brackets and install the pad with the wear sensor in back and the other one in front. Make sure the pads are seated correctly.


Pads
New Pad


Oem pad with new pad. OEM is already glazed


OEM Pad thickness. OEM pads are made for long life and normal driving. Once they heat up they suffer from heatsoaking which causes fade. At this point the car doesnt stop very well or doesnt stop at all.


Compress the caliper piston back into place with a pair of channel locks or a C clamp. Press the piston in very slowly, If it is not going back in the piston is seized and you need to get a new caliper or rebuild kit. Place the caliper on the upper pin, the caliper should just fall into place if not check the seating of the pads and then just give a few taps with your fist. Reinstall the lower bolt with some super lube around it and tighten the bolt bolt down.

It should look like this when done


******* If you are changing the rotor*******
To remove the Pad carrier there are 2 17mm bolts located behind it. Remove them and the carrier will come out. There are 2 set screws on the rotor which 99% of the time are rusted to hell, so you need an impact screwdriver or a torch to heat them up. Once they are removed 99% of the time the rotor is rusted onto the hub... to remove it install all 4 lug nuts and hit the rotor from behind with a larger hammer or other precison too. Hopefully after a few hits it comes loose or cracks. If not soak the rear of it in a good penetrating oil for a few mins and start hitting again. Install is reverse of removal.

Reinstall wheels, tighten by hand. Lower car. Torque wheels to 85ftlbs. Go in the car and pump the pedal until it becomes hard. Start the car and pump a few more times. Check fluid level then take the car for a test drive where you will bed the brakes in

To bed the pads in. Drive the car up to 60km and slow down to 5km 3-4 times, then drive up to 100km and come to a stop by pumping the brakes do this 2-3 times. Avoid using the brakes much when you are driving home. Park your car and let the brakes cool and sit for 6-10h.

Enjoy your new brakes

I hope this helps out some of you. I didnt change my rotors because they are still new. The job took me 15 mins.




[Edited by GregsterGSi on Feb 14, 2006 5:38 PM]

[Edited by GregsterGSi on Feb 14, 2006 5:41 PM]
 

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Good write up... about what I expected. I have to change the driver's side caliper on mine as well.
In terms of refilling and bleeding, could you describe that as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by Tugger5000
[body]
Good write up... about what I expected. I have to change the driver's side caliper on mine as well.
In terms of refilling and bleeding, could you describe that as well?
[/body]
I suggest bleeding the entire system

to change a caliper you need to get 2 washers and some vise grips. Place the 2 washers inbetween the line and crimp the line with the vise grips. Remove the line from the caliper. Fill the new caliper with some fluid and install the line. Undo the bleeder and wait about 30 mins.

Ok to bleed the entire system. Get a friend in the car and close all the bleeders. Pump the brakes about 20 times. Start bleeding at the RR then Fl RL FR. While he is holding the brakes open the bleeder then close it. Repeat it about 5 times. Per wheel. Then start the car and repeat it because the booster will kick in. After that you should be good to go. Don't forget to refill the master when you change wheels

At work we have a vacuum bleeder works great
[Edited by GregsterGSi on Feb 14, 2006 7:10 PM]

[Edited by GregsterGSi on Feb 14, 2006 7:11 PM]
 

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holy ****!!!!!

I live in VT, and changed my pads/rotors at about 40K, and my hubs looked NOTHING like that. they were a LOT cleaner. WTF?!?! what do they use on the roads up there?!?!

anyways, good writeup. from doing this job myself, it seems to be all there.
 

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i also hit my rotors with a fine grit sandpaper, swirly action all the way around inside & out to deglaze. wipe 'em down with brake kleen or denatured alcohol & reassemble with the fresh pads.
 

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I agree with bvtmattyc...holy schniekes!! Rust on the hub already?! I got a 2005 Accent with only 7,500 miles, and I live in freakin' Chicago and the road salt wreaks havoc on the car, but none of my car looks that bad!

Otherwise, great write-up. lol...
 

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i big pointer it you use the wagner pad. do not but and grease, or lube on the back or the pads. most of the wagner pads have brake material on both sides that is why the do not squeal like the other pads on the market. also it you have the money and end up taking your wheels on and off or other stuff that is normally done with a impact gun, you might like this toy ;):

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=64144&group_ID=16217
i have removed axle nuts with it.

[Edited by moddedx on Feb 15, 2006 8:23 AM]
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by moddedx
[body]
i big pointer it you use the wagner pad. do not but and grease, or lube on the back or the pads. most of the wagner pads have brake material on both sides that is why the do not squeal like the other pads on the market. also it you have the money and end up taking your wheels on and off or other stuff that is normally done with a impact gun, you might like this toy ;):

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=64144&group_ID=16217
i have removed axle nuts with it.

[Edited by moddedx on Feb 15, 2006 8:23 AM]
[/body]
Well my car has 7500kms on it, here in QC they use massive amounts of salt on the road. Which creates rusty cars and terrible roads. My neon is a 1998 driven only on dry winter days before i started storing it. The car only has surface rust.

As for the impact gun I have a IR Titanium Pro that I use. I figured since most people don't own air tools id post a pic of that.

Btw: that snap on electric gun is made by millwakee and sold for double the price
 

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that is funny, I just finished this on my car saturday and took pics and was going to write up..but you beat me to it! Good stuff dood, great job documenting it all!
 

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also make sure to use a liberal amount of anti-sieze on the slider pins & threads. I had one sieze up, when I went to loosen the one pin with a breaker bar it sheared in half. the other half was stuck in the pad holder/bracket, had to find a replacement bracket from a yard. it pretty much ruined my day and could have been avoided...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Originally posted by pucci
[body]
also make sure to use a liberal amount of anti-sieze on the slider pins & threads. I had one sieze up, when I went to loosen the one pin with a breaker bar it sheared in half. the other half was stuck in the pad holder/bracket, had to find a replacement bracket from a yard. it pretty much ruined my day and could have been avoided...
[/body]
Id never use anti sieze on sliders only a synthetic slider lube
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Originally posted by pucci
[body]
[body]Id never use anti sieze on sliders only a synthetic slider lube [/body]


to each is own.
[/body]
thats from lack of maintenace

You should do a brake service every 10k on asain cars especially. The main problem with using anti sieze in the sliders is that it thickens up and prevents the sliders from sliding

[Edited by GregsterGSi on Feb 16, 2006 9:20 PM]
 

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Just finished doing mine... It took me 2 hours, but I wasn't in a rush...

I'm up to 146000 miles on the original rotors. The driver's side caliper is starting to seize and was in constant contact with the rotor. The outer pad was down to bare metal (I should've taken care of it months ago, but with traveling and remodeling a bathroom, I waited until the last possible moment)...

This is what is left of the pad... check out the scoring on the rotor. I don't have my calipers with me, but the rotor only seems to be 16mm thick...


The impact screwdriver is worth its weight in gold...


Completed assembly, new pads, sorta new rotor (courtesy of http://www.allhyundaiisuzuparts.com/ less than 10K miles) and new caliper (courtesy of endlessmike)...


I'll bleed the brakes tomorrow as soon as I can convince my neighbor to come over and give me a hand... but he's easy to bribe... just need to buy some beer to offer up...

I still need to do the rear brakes, but I think I am going to place the whole rear wheel assembly on both sides (I have a bad bearing, I think). I can get a good prices from allhyundaiisuzuparts, and it seems easier just to replace everything...

[Edited by Tugger5000 on Feb 18, 2006 9:33 PM]
 
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